Franchi 48 12ga 3" -> 2 3/4"
- Thread starter Jooon
- Start date
I did a Google search and found this info.
Maybe something here will help?
I know on my A-5's, if the mag tube is dry, it will
act up on ejecting. The rings need to be in their proper
designated spots for different types of shell charges.
Forum: Firearms & Ammo
Topic: Franchi 48 AL Problems
started by: Alder
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Alder on Nov. 27 2008,3:42
I did a search on the forum without finding anything of use so here's my problem:
I recently acquired an older Franchi 48 AL 12 gauge. The gun had only been fired a couple of times by the previous owner and that was over 8 years ago. He had won it at an RGS banquet. There was no box or manual with the gun. I inspected & cleaned the gun and every thing seemed to be in order. Loaded it up and fired the first round. The hull did not eject. This happened a couple of times. I then put a shell in the mag as well but had the same result. I contacted Franchi/Benelli by phone. The rep told me the gun was made prior to them buying the cmpany. He sent me a copy of the manual (which is quite sparse) and gave me some advice on positioning of the friction ring on the mag tube. Armed with this new information I tried again with the same results. I tried light loads, heavy loads and the switched the ring around with each. Still the gun will not eject/cycle.
I am wondering if anyone as any advice or knows of a competent gunsmith in NW Wisconsin who might be able to help me. I got the gun for free and don't want to sink any money in it. I may keep it for a back up or sell it but can't do either until I shoot it a little. It is very light and has a nice feel. It has a fixed skeet choke and a 28 inch tube. The wood is nothing to write home about but is adequate.
The SN is D70139 - 12 Gauge - 2 3/4" -
S.P.A. Luigi Franchi - Bresca - MADE IN ITALY 48 AL
If that helps at all.
Any advice would be appreciated.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Samuel Hoggson on Nov. 27 2008,8:05
Some simple possibilities: not assembled correctly. My 20 is set for light loads. Drop recoil spring around mag tube first, then spacer with flat side facing away from the the spring. Friction ring goes next. Then the barrel goes on.
Loads too light. I'm guessing this is your problem. I have not owned a 12, but my 20 will not feed 3/4 oz loads at all.
Excess friction: there's such a thing as too dry. That mag tube does need just a tiny bit of lube. After you gain some experience with them you know just how much.
Sam
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by CheVet on Nov. 27 2008,1:32
Sam's advice regarding lubricating the mag tube is the solution I believe. I have a 20G 48AL that I bought from a co-worker years ago. The friction ring had rust under it, same behavior you mentioned. Took a very light steel wool to the outside of the mag tube after removing outer spring/friction rings etc. A little spray lube, reassembled and it worked great.
I bought an O/U last year so hadn't shot the autoloader in 2 years. It stuck a couple times and didn't eject. Pulled the forearm (not the spring), sprayed a little lube, worked the friction ring back and forth, reassembled and it worked flawlessly.
It's like anything in this world.....i'f you don't use it you lose it'. Now if I could just get my wife to understand that!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Hunshatt on Nov. 27 2008,10:13
(CheVet @ Nov. 27 2008,1:32)
QUOTE
It's like anything in this world.....i'f you don't use it you lose it'. Now if I could just get my wife to understand that!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Samuel Hoggson on Nov. 28 2008,8:37
A cautionary addendum: when we suggest lube we mean sparingly. Try a smidge, reassemble and test. Not enough? Add a bit more and try again.
The alloy frame that makes the 48AL such a delight to carry can be battered by too violent cycling caused, in turn, by too much lube.
So......easy does it. BTW, if you overlube you will feel a much more pronounced second recoil impulse. That's caused by the bolt carrier bottoming out (very bad). Stop immediately and wipe some lube off!
Sam
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Alder on Nov. 28 2008,9:50
Gentlemen,
Thanks for all of the great information. One quick question; the friction ring, the one above the spacer, nearest the forend cap is very tight. I really have to work at it to get it off the magazine tube. How easily should that slide??
Thanks again. I will let you know what happens.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by OK Black Lab on Nov. 28 2008,11:54
I used to shoot an older Rem Sportsman 48 which is basically the same recoil operated ejection system of the Franchi 48 (barrel moving into the receiver). When I first bought the gun and had the same cycling issues I began to slowly add more lube as Samuel has suggested. Bottom line with my gun was that it needed to be VERY well lubed to cycle. Almost dripping wet around the spring and magazine tube.You may just need to keep the spring well lubed...even more than you might otherwise consider.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Samuel Hoggson on Nov. 28 2008,2:56
(Alder @ Nov. 28 2008,9:50)
QUOTE
One quick question; the friction ring, the one above the spacer, nearest the forend cap is very tight. I really have to work at it to get it off the magazine tube. How easily should that slide??
The ring is supposed to be tight. But let's assume it's too tight. First clean the tube up completely. If there are any rough spots (you'll feel them) use steel wool (4-0 is fine) wet with CLP. You want a smooth, polished surface. Wipe it all off with dry rag.
Next, put a drop of CLP on the tube and spread it all over the areas over which the friction ring will move. Reassemble and see if you don't notice a difference. You can always add more lube. Start out stingy on the lube.
Now......if all else fails the brass friction ring is tensioned by that steel band. The band can be stretched slightly so as to loosen some tension.........be very, very careful not to overdo this or you'll need a new one. Consider this a the very last resort - try it only if lubing the heck out of the tube doesn't get you there.
Sam
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Curt on Nov. 28 2008,5:10
Sounds like you're getting some good info although the owners manual says to keep the magazine tube clean & dry (no lube) and that's how I keep mine. The gun won't cycle correctly if it isn't snug into your shoulder when it's fired, just the nature of the recoil operated system. I'm sure you already know this but I've seen people unfamiliar with this system shoot mine and have the gun not cycle. Just a thought.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Samuel Hoggson on Nov. 28 2008,5:57
Curt, You're correct. When my 48 was brand new it really wanted to be absolutely dry. But after many years and outings some very light pitting and rust got started on the tube (probably cuz it lived in my truck) and so I polished it out. By polish I do not mean like a chrome bumper - just enough to eliminate rough spots. Nowadays my 48 likes a bit of lube on the mag tube.
Sam
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Alder on Nov. 29 2008,9:31
Hello Everybody,
Well a little steel wool, some solvent and then some oil and then a little more oil and now it seems to be working!
The one question I still have is the positioning of the spacer ring for light vs. heavy loads. Is the flat or concave side of the ring supposed to be towards the spring for light loads? I can't tell from the picture in the manual which way it is facing.
Thanks a gain for the help.
Mike
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Samuel Hoggson on Nov. 30 2008,8:00
Its concave against the spring for light. But think of it this way, so that it makes sense. The concave angle works to further tighten the friction ring. By keeping the flat against the friction ring there's no added tension.
Glad you've got it running.
Sam
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by 3crosses on Dec. 02 2008,4:27
It is the same exact setup as the Browning A5. Look on the browning website for the friction ring setup and you should set up the Franchi the same way.
According to Browning it is the concave side toward the receiver.
< Browning A5 >
Maybe something here will help?
I know on my A-5's, if the mag tube is dry, it will
act up on ejecting. The rings need to be in their proper
designated spots for different types of shell charges.
Forum: Firearms & Ammo
Topic: Franchi 48 AL Problems
started by: Alder
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Alder on Nov. 27 2008,3:42
I did a search on the forum without finding anything of use so here's my problem:
I recently acquired an older Franchi 48 AL 12 gauge. The gun had only been fired a couple of times by the previous owner and that was over 8 years ago. He had won it at an RGS banquet. There was no box or manual with the gun. I inspected & cleaned the gun and every thing seemed to be in order. Loaded it up and fired the first round. The hull did not eject. This happened a couple of times. I then put a shell in the mag as well but had the same result. I contacted Franchi/Benelli by phone. The rep told me the gun was made prior to them buying the cmpany. He sent me a copy of the manual (which is quite sparse) and gave me some advice on positioning of the friction ring on the mag tube. Armed with this new information I tried again with the same results. I tried light loads, heavy loads and the switched the ring around with each. Still the gun will not eject/cycle.
I am wondering if anyone as any advice or knows of a competent gunsmith in NW Wisconsin who might be able to help me. I got the gun for free and don't want to sink any money in it. I may keep it for a back up or sell it but can't do either until I shoot it a little. It is very light and has a nice feel. It has a fixed skeet choke and a 28 inch tube. The wood is nothing to write home about but is adequate.
The SN is D70139 - 12 Gauge - 2 3/4" -
S.P.A. Luigi Franchi - Bresca - MADE IN ITALY 48 AL
If that helps at all.
Any advice would be appreciated.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Samuel Hoggson on Nov. 27 2008,8:05
Some simple possibilities: not assembled correctly. My 20 is set for light loads. Drop recoil spring around mag tube first, then spacer with flat side facing away from the the spring. Friction ring goes next. Then the barrel goes on.
Loads too light. I'm guessing this is your problem. I have not owned a 12, but my 20 will not feed 3/4 oz loads at all.
Excess friction: there's such a thing as too dry. That mag tube does need just a tiny bit of lube. After you gain some experience with them you know just how much.
Sam
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by CheVet on Nov. 27 2008,1:32
Sam's advice regarding lubricating the mag tube is the solution I believe. I have a 20G 48AL that I bought from a co-worker years ago. The friction ring had rust under it, same behavior you mentioned. Took a very light steel wool to the outside of the mag tube after removing outer spring/friction rings etc. A little spray lube, reassembled and it worked great.
I bought an O/U last year so hadn't shot the autoloader in 2 years. It stuck a couple times and didn't eject. Pulled the forearm (not the spring), sprayed a little lube, worked the friction ring back and forth, reassembled and it worked flawlessly.
It's like anything in this world.....i'f you don't use it you lose it'. Now if I could just get my wife to understand that!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Hunshatt on Nov. 27 2008,10:13
(CheVet @ Nov. 27 2008,1:32)
QUOTE
It's like anything in this world.....i'f you don't use it you lose it'. Now if I could just get my wife to understand that!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Samuel Hoggson on Nov. 28 2008,8:37
A cautionary addendum: when we suggest lube we mean sparingly. Try a smidge, reassemble and test. Not enough? Add a bit more and try again.
The alloy frame that makes the 48AL such a delight to carry can be battered by too violent cycling caused, in turn, by too much lube.
So......easy does it. BTW, if you overlube you will feel a much more pronounced second recoil impulse. That's caused by the bolt carrier bottoming out (very bad). Stop immediately and wipe some lube off!
Sam
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Alder on Nov. 28 2008,9:50
Gentlemen,
Thanks for all of the great information. One quick question; the friction ring, the one above the spacer, nearest the forend cap is very tight. I really have to work at it to get it off the magazine tube. How easily should that slide??
Thanks again. I will let you know what happens.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by OK Black Lab on Nov. 28 2008,11:54
I used to shoot an older Rem Sportsman 48 which is basically the same recoil operated ejection system of the Franchi 48 (barrel moving into the receiver). When I first bought the gun and had the same cycling issues I began to slowly add more lube as Samuel has suggested. Bottom line with my gun was that it needed to be VERY well lubed to cycle. Almost dripping wet around the spring and magazine tube.You may just need to keep the spring well lubed...even more than you might otherwise consider.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Samuel Hoggson on Nov. 28 2008,2:56
(Alder @ Nov. 28 2008,9:50)
QUOTE
One quick question; the friction ring, the one above the spacer, nearest the forend cap is very tight. I really have to work at it to get it off the magazine tube. How easily should that slide??
The ring is supposed to be tight. But let's assume it's too tight. First clean the tube up completely. If there are any rough spots (you'll feel them) use steel wool (4-0 is fine) wet with CLP. You want a smooth, polished surface. Wipe it all off with dry rag.
Next, put a drop of CLP on the tube and spread it all over the areas over which the friction ring will move. Reassemble and see if you don't notice a difference. You can always add more lube. Start out stingy on the lube.
Now......if all else fails the brass friction ring is tensioned by that steel band. The band can be stretched slightly so as to loosen some tension.........be very, very careful not to overdo this or you'll need a new one. Consider this a the very last resort - try it only if lubing the heck out of the tube doesn't get you there.
Sam
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Curt on Nov. 28 2008,5:10
Sounds like you're getting some good info although the owners manual says to keep the magazine tube clean & dry (no lube) and that's how I keep mine. The gun won't cycle correctly if it isn't snug into your shoulder when it's fired, just the nature of the recoil operated system. I'm sure you already know this but I've seen people unfamiliar with this system shoot mine and have the gun not cycle. Just a thought.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Samuel Hoggson on Nov. 28 2008,5:57
Curt, You're correct. When my 48 was brand new it really wanted to be absolutely dry. But after many years and outings some very light pitting and rust got started on the tube (probably cuz it lived in my truck) and so I polished it out. By polish I do not mean like a chrome bumper - just enough to eliminate rough spots. Nowadays my 48 likes a bit of lube on the mag tube.
Sam
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Alder on Nov. 29 2008,9:31
Hello Everybody,
Well a little steel wool, some solvent and then some oil and then a little more oil and now it seems to be working!
The one question I still have is the positioning of the spacer ring for light vs. heavy loads. Is the flat or concave side of the ring supposed to be towards the spring for light loads? I can't tell from the picture in the manual which way it is facing.
Thanks a gain for the help.
Mike
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Samuel Hoggson on Nov. 30 2008,8:00
Its concave against the spring for light. But think of it this way, so that it makes sense. The concave angle works to further tighten the friction ring. By keeping the flat against the friction ring there's no added tension.
Glad you've got it running.
Sam
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by 3crosses on Dec. 02 2008,4:27
It is the same exact setup as the Browning A5. Look on the browning website for the friction ring setup and you should set up the Franchi the same way.
According to Browning it is the concave side toward the receiver.
< Browning A5 >
beaup_face
New member
- Location
- St. John's
Yeah there is a ring with a bevel in it. It's between the spring and the brass friction ring .. Bevel towards the spring for light loads, bevel towards the brass for heavy loads. And with all mine I have cleaned the outside of the mag tube then polished it with car wax to make it smooth. Never had a problem. Between me and dad we got five of them
Okay I am a little confused.
from what I understood the ring with the bevel is suppose to go on the side opposite the spring with the bevel facing towards the brass slider...I've taken a picture of what I think you mean beaup_face.
Also something I should note is my brass ring was INCREDIBLY tight. I stretched out a tiny bit and now it slides a little bit easier.
Something else I noticed is that the brass ring has a short bevel on one side and a longer bevel on the other.
If you could give me instruction on how these should be assembled I would greatly appreciate it!!
from what I understood the ring with the bevel is suppose to go on the side opposite the spring with the bevel facing towards the brass slider...I've taken a picture of what I think you mean beaup_face.
Also something I should note is my brass ring was INCREDIBLY tight. I stretched out a tiny bit and now it slides a little bit easier.
Something else I noticed is that the brass ring has a short bevel on one side and a longer bevel on the other.
If you could give me instruction on how these should be assembled I would greatly appreciate it!!
gunsaholic
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg, Manitoba
Quote (Okay I am a little confused.
from what I understood the ring with the bevel is suppose to go on the side opposite the spring with the bevel facing towards the brass slider...I've taken a picture of what I think you mean beaup_face.)
If you are shooting light 2 3/4" loads then you want the bevel toward the spring, not toward the brass slider.
from what I understood the ring with the bevel is suppose to go on the side opposite the spring with the bevel facing towards the brass slider...I've taken a picture of what I think you mean beaup_face.)
If you are shooting light 2 3/4" loads then you want the bevel toward the spring, not toward the brass slider.
beaup_face
New member
- Location
- St. John's
Looks good, yeah you got it right. That brass slider can be a bugger to get off.the next time I get out the safe I'll take a couple of pics, and get a pic of the page out of the owners manual. And yes for light that setup is correct.
I took it out this evening with no luck.
The next cartridge is being pulled into the bottom part of the chamber but the empty shell is not being ejected.
Is it possible that the pressure from the bolt spring is too high for the low cartridges?
Also those brass springs are a bugger...I broke mine when I was trying to get it off to swap the other ring around (just to experiment) where do you recommend I get a new one?
Thanks
Jooon
The next cartridge is being pulled into the bottom part of the chamber but the empty shell is not being ejected.
Is it possible that the pressure from the bolt spring is too high for the low cartridges?
Also those brass springs are a bugger...I broke mine when I was trying to get it off to swap the other ring around (just to experiment) where do you recommend I get a new one?
Thanks
Jooon
