Free floating Brno 600zkk?

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I want to free float the barrel on my Brno. There is a screw in the forend under the rear sight. (actually the middle sight,cause I got the cool little pop-up peep sight). Anyhow, should I just free float it from there, and bed the rest? I've never bedded a rifle and thought I might try with this one. Anyone have any advice on free floating and bedding this gun? Thanks
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Without tightening the screws, bed from the rear sight back behind the recoil lug for an inch, and a bit at the tang. Give a little relief to the "front side" of areas that lock it in so it will remove easier if you need to do this in the field. Float the rest of the barrel.
 
In the barrel channel only a patch of bedding required where the barrel comes out of the action. Forward of the recoil lug should have a space, not only for easy removal, but to prevent any torque. Also the mounting screws must not have any resistance for and aft.
And to check if you got it right , there must not be any up and down motion when tightening the screw. If you notice that the action moves down with the last 1/4 turn of the tang screw it is pivoting on the bedding and will produce torque, and less accuracy or worse a cracked stock.
You should be able to easly insert the screws and not notice any movement of the action when tightning lug or tang screws. A good idea is to place a spacer that will fit over the tang screw and still fit in the wood, you can bed this insert right into the wood, which will maintain the same amount of distance when you snug up the tang screw.
If you get this right , you will not end up with a split stock in the area of the action as a result of recoil when firing medium to heavy calibers, and accuracy will be as good as the barrel can deliver.
Frank
 
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Brno ZKK-600

I have the identical rifle in 7x57 and all I did was take the stock off and remove the dovetail insert that holds the barrel to the wood and remove the lock srew from the outside. :) Thats it and never had to bed it as it shoots into an inch with these two items removed. I am keeping the original parts of course.Try this first before doing anything you can't reverse without a lot of cussin'..:eek: ... To keep the action screws tight all I did was put a little dab of clear nail polish on the threads..............and no it was not my nail polish.:rolleyes:
 
I have one just like yours in 270win only thing is that it's still in Africa and I am haveing a hell of a time to get it here. Man that pic brings back memories....
 
Well - I would encourage you to practice on a "beater" rifle before trying a nice rifle like that. How does the rifle shoot now? Have you tried different types of ammo/bullet weights. BTW - more effort was put into bedding that rifle than most modern rifles - note the pillars..
Look to see if there are obvious bedding faults - ie crud in critical areas, rub marks on barrel and stock. If you want to ascertain the merits of free floating, you can place cardboard shims before and after the recoil lug....
 
I bought a ZKK600 (30/06) in 1974 and really liked it. It shot quite well "out of the box" but , like any "bedded in the wood" rifle was inconsistent shooting very well one day and not so well the next. I decided to glassbed.
First time around I bedded it full length. I figured since BRNO went through all the effort to incorporate the forend screw, I would continue to use it. The rifle shot better but with one major flaw. If I shot a 5 shot group, it would be a decent, round group. If I then allowed the rifle to cool only the length of time it took to walk up and check the 100 yd target and walk back, the first shot of the next group would hit about four or five inches high, the next shot a couple inches lower and the third shot back at the original point of impact. From there, if I continued to fire, all subsequent shots would group in that area. If I allowed the rifle to cool completely, the group would form where it should have as well. Every other bolt action rifle I had worked with, I had floated the barrel so I decided to do the same with my BRNO. I did this by simply removing the necessary material from the forend and removing the little block into which the forend screw was threaded. I then glued the screw back into the stock just to fill the hole. It worked perfectly and the "walking point of impact" problem was gone.
At the same time, I noticed the barrel had a noticable tight spot right at the location of the rear sight boss. Although accuracy was pretty good at around 1 inch or so at 100yd, I couldn't stand the thought of that tight spot so I cast a lead lap and lapped the barrel with some 400 grit clover compount to eliminate the tight spot. It took some time, by the way, but I got it done. I cast a second lap and polished the bore with JB compound to finish it.
After this the rifle was very consistent and was, in fact one of the best shooting factory rifles I have ever had. I shot many 5 shot groups which were well under 3/4 inch and even some under 1/2 using 180 Sierras.
In the intervening years I have become solidly convinced that, if you want a barrel free floated, it should be floated all the way. Bedding just ahead of the receiver has always resulted in a tendency toward vertical flyers. Others may, of course, disagree and are welcome to do so!
By the way, the inserts in the BRNO stock are not, peoperly speaking, pillars. A pillar is bonded to the stock so it becomes an imtegral part of the stock. These are not and are therefor a spacer rather than a pillar.
Regarding the use of cardboard shims; I recall an exchange between Alex Bulman and his brother-in-law, Harlan Govett. Harlan was fooling around with his heavy bench rifle. He had a dial guage set up on the barrel and was placing pieces of match book cover at various strategic locations within the receiver area then tightening the screws while watching the guage. Finally satisfied, he said, " I think that'll do it!"
Alex replied, "Well, if it does, I've wasted a lot of my money!"
I agree with Alex. The placement of cardboard shim will not prove or disprove the merits of free floating the barrel. It will only prove or disprove the merits of the cardboard shim. Regards, Bill.
 
After reading these replies, i examined the bedding a little better. It seems to be very well done. Pillars seem to do what they're sopposed to. The only thing I saw was;

1. the rubbing on either side of the barrel
2. the downward force that the barrel screw was
putting on the action.

I removed the barrel screw and dovtail insert as 303carbine suggested and I carefully removed the high spots in the forearm.

I'm going to try it like this and I hope it does the trick. I'm just wondering if its possible to put a pillar on the barrel screw? Just so I don't have the ugly screw hole in the forearm.

Thanks a bunch and let I'll you know how it works out.

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Leeper, mine is also a 30/06, and i'm experiencing similar problems as you did, but my "cold shot" is only about 2-3 inches from point of aim.
I Don't notice any tight spots now. (see above reply)

I cannot get the "pillars" to budge so I don't know what to say about that. It looks as though there is epoxy or something around them. Thanks agian.
 
Leeper said:
Bedding just ahead of the receiver has always resulted in a tendency toward vertical flyers. Others may, of course, disagree and are welcome to do so!
Regards, Bill.

I agree with you... if the barrel has taper to it ahead of the action, the bedded taper can induce vertical dispersion...

Back in 1969 we tried bedding a good shooting 6mm-284 Sako... the action and about 4 inches of barrel.... it shot a vertical string consistantly... After removing 3 inches of bedding from the barrel it shot nice round groups consistantly for a short time and then the barrel was worn out... I never bedded a taper since then..

If the barrel has no taper a short portion of it can be bedded with the action I have found.....but totally floating works fine.

I like your bedding method on the Brno... I have done that to pre-64 Model 70's and it worked well for them...
 
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