Friend's FN Mauser 9.3 x 62
- Thread starter diopter
- Start date
- Location
- Western Manitoba
As you show it in first three pictures - pull the lever back all the way to the rear - see if a pin protrude under the shroud at the front - that will lock the bolt in place (bolt handle shut) - if that is three position (?), then straight out sideways will also be a "click" -safety will still engage cocking piece, but bolt body is free to rotate - should be or should see a cam that will swing around and catch front edge of the cocking piece. That unit sure looks like it is for an M98 - needs the spring and locking thingy to go into that chamber along the side - that prevents the shroud from rotating on the bolt body when it is withdrawn from the receiver. For the Gentry and the Dakota that I installed - I had to grind a new notch on the top side of the bolt body so that the pin in that safety shroud could enter and lock down that bolt. I am sure that I used a 1/8" diameter diamond studded grinder in a Dremel tool - you will find that to be very hard metal on that bolt. I thought instructions that came with mine were quite clear how to mark and do that - not sure that I have either set any more.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I would say the parts in the bag make up the bolt lock that is operated by the three position safety - the "shroud lock" parts get robbed out of the original military style shroud. It seems to me that you fit this safety's shroud for the bolt lock - just bolt body and the parts that you show. Then separate step to fit the safety cam part to the cocking piece, after you have the shroud fitting. Not going by instructions - just how I think I did them.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Is a thing to check when done - how mauser safety should work - operating that lever to rear - should lift the cocking piece slightly off the trigger's sear - so trigger can be pulled, but the safety holds the cocking piece back - then should see that safety set the cocking piece back onto the sear when the safety lever is moved forward. Do NOT want to allow that sear to be able to be "caught" underneath the cocking piece when safety is in "safe" position - only when in "fire position - after trigger has been pulled - want either the safety, or the trigger sear to engage cocking piece - not both at same time. So has to be slight gap between sear and cocking piece when safety engaged - visually should be able to see cocking piece move forward to be set back onto that sear when lever is moved forward. If poor inletting or something prevents the sear from rising all the way up when trigger is released - then releasing the safety will fire the rifle - because that sear could not grab that cocking piece.
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- Location
- Western Manitoba
Article is by Don Heath:
africahunting.com/threads/rifle-lessons-learned-from-the-zimbabwe-professional-hunter-proficiency-exam.2604/
Thanks for finding that - is what I thought that I remembered - not sure that I first read the article on that website, but no doubt articles get published more than once, on different platforms.
Was really pointed to me, that my 50 years of shooting deer and other small things in Saskatchewan prairies, is a VERY long way from what those people deal with - especially the demands they place on their gear. So I pretty much have to just listen, "when the big boys in the pool hall are talking"!!
- Location
- Saskatchewan
That's a nice rifle and a good configuration. I have many rifles with many different types of safeties, and don't have a strong preference except when it comes to dangerous game rifles. The 9.3x62 is just barely a dangerous game caliber, and doesn't actually kick much, but with hard recoiling rifles, it is foolish to lay your thumb alongside the grip when shooting. For proper control, you must grip the stock over the top to maintain control under recoil from field shooting positions. Right side wing safeties do work OK, and are familiar, but I agree with the idea that carrying a loaded rifle with thumb on safety, instantly flipping it down to fire is a better way than the microsecond slower method of right side systems. I wouldn't hunt with a rifle where you could over ride the safety depending on bolt position. That means the safety is badly adjusted or the rifle is worn out.
Had to use the old dime trick to disassemble the bolt. Safety was only one position. Followed instructions for bolts with Low Beuhler safety.
Turns out the tension spring in the original safety was mangled. Cut up one of my spares to length.
Turns out the tension spring in the original safety was mangled. Cut up one of my spares to length.
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BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
Just takes a little practice. Not hard at all.
I tried it the other night; my thumb was not “barely touching” but it was on the side. Slinging up kept the rifle in place, I greatly overestimated what the thumb does. Still prefer wrapping the thumb around tbh 2/3rds of my centrefire rifles have set triggers though
