Frog Lube and blackpowder

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New convert to frog lube, (or as my fiancee calls it "toothpaste for guns"). How does frog lube work on blackpowder? Should I wash the gun first or just clean with frog lube?
 
Firstly, I haven't tried Frog Lube at all and don't know its contents or uses.

I'm thinking though that you are best off to remove all traces of black powder fouling with some sort of water and soap wash regimen before any kind of oils or lubes are used for preservation. The fouling is hydroscopic so any that remains in contact with metal has the potential to absorb moisture from the air or possibly from other cleaning products if they contain water and then causing rust. Get rid of it then seal everything up with oil or greases etc.

Never had an issue with petroleum based oils for cleaning or protecting the metal work but you don't want any involved in the loading of your black powder shooting as it can create some horrible baked on residues or long smoldering patches.
 
Ya I thought he meant for shootin' - I always lube them with regular gunoil for storage or I often find rust after sitting awhile. For shooting I lube with regular olive oil, or just spit for patches (if it's too hot I dip the patches in olive oil...but temperatures are rarely that warm here) mixed with beeswax for lubing lead. Works great.

Let us know how the froglube stuff works and whether there are any advantages
 
Hot soapy water is and always has been the best for cleaning black powder firearms. I have several black powder guns that have been cleaned this way for over 40 years and there is no sign of rust or damage from the cleaning. I do not use pyrodex because although it fouls less, the fouling left is a perchlorate salt that is more hygroscopic than black powder fouling and more active chemically once it absorbs water. The bits of salt pyrodex creates when burning are smaller and seem to be harder to get out of the corners.

After any cleaning with water it is mandatory that a good gun oil be used to seal and protect the surface of the metal from oxygen that causes rust. Frog lube is as good as any.

I use a murphys oil/beeswax mix for patch and conical bullet lube - it works well and cleans easy.
I use a crisco/beeswax lube for bullets in cap and ball revolvers.

BTW: I have used black powder since the mid 1960s...
 
Frog lube is the best lubricant I've used so far. I shot 1000 round of my 10/22 until it was good and dirty, then put a couple partches through. The gun was clean with only using 3 patches. If u pre-treat the gun with frog lube after heating it up with a hair dryer it's pretty amazing what it can do.

I'm pretty sure it's gonna work great with your black powder.
 
Frog lube is the best lubricant I've used so far. I shot 1000 round of my 10/22 until it was good and dirty, then put a couple partches through. The gun was clean with only using 3 patches. If u pre-treat the gun with frog lube after heating it up with a hair dryer it's pretty amazing what it can do.

I'm pretty sure it's gonna work great with your black powder.

With black powder (and corrosive ammo) there is no substitute for a thorough cleaning with hot soapy water or a water based cleaning solvent. Oils do not dissolve and remove salts - hot water does. It is as simple as that. Frog Lube will probably work very well to keep a firearm from corrosion after cleaning with water based solvents but no oil will dissolve the corrosive salts and remove them.
 
With black powder (and corrosive ammo) there is no substitute for a thorough cleaning with hot soapy water or a water based cleaning solvent. Oils do not dissolve and remove salts - hot water does. It is as simple as that. Frog Lube will probably work very well to keep a firearm from corrosion after cleaning with water based solvents but no oil will dissolve the corrosive salts and remove them.

Well said - follow that advice and your black powder guns will stay clean and rust free. I've only got 25 years shooting BP but was taught that same simple method and it continues to work well.
 
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