Front base screw interference with action threads.Source of my problems??

you mention a lot of heavy or VLD type bullets, 190 gr LR Accubond and poor results. What is the rate of twist of your barrel? any stickiness or pressure signs on the primer or case, hard to extract after firing. some barrels are just finnicky on the load that they want to shoot. what happens when you shoot something like a 168, 175 or even a factory 150gr or 180gr load for groupings. is everything doing the same at the target end of the outing?
 
guntech said:
That should have been shooting well within a few rounds...
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Sorry, she also mentioned that if I'm not using a properly calibrated quality torque wrench on the action screws I could be having problems there.

Gary emailed me back, recommends to purchase and install another barrel , if it corrects the problem I get the cost of the barrel refunded , if it doesn't then I likely have two barrels that are good.Problem with this is what if the reamer or chamber cut poorly, use the same equipment with the same result then I am really f'ed.I don't want to throw the smith under the bus either.

Or, like many suggest , it ain't the arrow it's the Indian.

I think I'll find someone more local to take it for a few months or so and see what results they get.

Maybe I just don't have it anymore.
 
gunpro said:
you mention a lot of heavy or VLD type bullets, 190 gr LR Accubond and poor results. What is the rate of twist of your barrel? any stickiness or pressure signs on the primer or case, hard to extract after firing. some barrels are just finnicky on the load that they want to shoot. what happens when you shoot something like a 168, 175 or even a factory 150gr or 180gr load for groupings. is everything doing the same at the target end of the outing?
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I've tried 190 LRAB , 180 SGK , 165 Speer GS , and 190 Gold Metal Match Federal.

Suppose I could try 150's or some barnes(I hate barnes) , never tried the ballistic tip or any hornady offerings either.maybe time to try better brass, I'm using Remington brass.
 
OK - From what I can gather, you re-did the bedding on the rifle. In the process you got some offset on the front action screw that you resolved by enlarging the hole in the floorplate. Question - When you snug up the action screws, do they snug up briskly (ie go tight in a small fraction of a turn), or do they gradually snug up over a turn or more? If the latter, its an indicator that something is not right in the bedding.
 
cosmic said:
OK - From what I can gather, you re-did the bedding on the rifle. In the process you got some offset on the front action screw that you resolved by enlarging the hole in the floorplate. Question - When you snug up the action screws, do they snug up briskly (ie go tight in a small fraction of a turn), or do they gradually snug up over a turn or more? If the latter, its an indicator that something is not right in the bedding.
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Off set was always there.The screw goes in smooth and then tightens at the last bit.But I suppose I could scrap the stock and try again, it's worth a shot.

Or I part it out or build a new one.How do I know the action isn't gibbled or I buggered up the barrel somehow.
 
Kelly Timoffee said:
Off set was always there.The screw goes in smooth and then tightens at the last bit.But I suppose I could scrap the stock and try again, it's worth a shot.

Or I part it out or build a new one.How do I know the action isn't gibbled or I buggered up the barrel somehow.
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I would try to shorten that king screw first, one thread at a time.

Have you done a chamber/partial bore cast??? It's not impossible your chamber is a bit off the axis to the bore. You would need access to a concentricity gauge as well. If it's seriously off, it will show up by rolling on a flat surface.

As guntech mentioned, that barrel "should" have started shooting right away.

That bottomed out king screw can really be an issue. Is it still bottoming out???

I told my bud, that hates the Vanguard II synthetic stocks, because they flex to much, about your king screw.

He feels you had two issues. The lack of rigidity in the stock and the king screw together would cause wandering POIs and groups when they formed.
 
I too suspect lack of rigidity in the stock combined with a longer/heavier barrel levering the forend and barrel into random contact, combined with differing locations of firing on the rest.

The one 'lucky group' is the kicker as I think it shows the mechanical reality of the rifle. It shoots good.

Wedge cardboard shims tight between the forend tip and barrel. Removing the potential slop should show groups tightening if this is so.
 
I agree with Post #31. I have had more than one rifle that shot as good, or much better, in one case, with some "up" pressure at the stock forearm tip on the barrel. Cost nothing except some bits of hard cardboard / paper shim stock to try. I would try - just an inch worth at the fore end tip - like Remington / Winchester wood stocks are or used to be - say about a quarter to a third of bottom circumference of the barrel. "Free floating" seems to be a thing, but I had a very accurate rifle (Rem 788 with 243 barrel - under 3/4" 5 shots at 100 yards) with full contact from rear tang for the entire length of the stock to fore end tip. I actually do not know if it was accurate because of the full bedding, or in spite of it - but that was something I wanted to try. I also have a real "dog" - an M1917 by BSA that is fully clearanced from chamber area forward, that does 4" or so groups at 25 yards - something else is badly wrong that I have not resolved yet - groove diameter is significantly oversized, for one thing - it slugs to 0.282" for a nominal 270 Win chambering (0.277" bullets).
 
Kelly Timoffee said:
I think I'll let someone else maybe give the rifle a go.
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Do you have another rifle that you shoot well? If not perhaps a different eye would be the way to go...

And how long did that barrel start out at? A blank as received from the factory usually benefits from removing an inch from the muzzle...
 
bearhunter said:
I would try to shorten that king screw first, one thread at a time.

Have you done a chamber/partial bore cast??? It's not impossible your chamber is a bit off the axis to the bore. You would need access to a concentricity gauge as well. If it's seriously off, it will show up by rolling on a flat surface.

As guntech mentioned, that barrel "should" have started shooting right away.

That bottomed out king screw can really be an issue. Is it still bottoming out???

I told my bud, that hates the Vanguard II synthetic stocks, because they flex to much, about your king screw.

He feels you had two issues. The lack of rigidity in the stock and the king screw together would cause wandering POIs and groups when they formed.
Click to expand...

A little bit of sharpie marker on the end of the bedding screws would let you know right away it that was the problem. I have seen this happen many times. Nothing that grinding or filing off a thread or two wouldn't solve.
 
guntech said:
Do you have another rifle that you shoot well? If not perhaps a different eye would be the way to go...

And how long did that barrel start out at? A blank as received from the factory usually benefits from removing an inch from the muzzle...
Click to expand...

The blanks come at 27" , Craige finished it at 25.25".

I have several rifles, a 7/08 with a Kreiger I have done 3/8 MOA , M88 I can do an inch and BLR I can do an inch on good days , my 338 LM just touch above 1/2 MOA at 500 , at 1000 I haven't' achieved that yet. Factory Vanguard in 25/06 that does well , even my 50cal inline with do about 1.5".

I wasn't clear on my comment, maybe I'll get someone to try load for it and go through the rifle.I will pay them.I don't feel like dishing out another $1,100.00 to see if it's the barrel, which in all honesty it probably isn't.

Maybe I'll post a WTB services in on the forum for someone who wants to try working this thing.But doesn't even seem like anyone is interested in that either.

Or if someone wants to take it off my hands they will get a steal of a deal.I have notoriously bad luck and it has reached the boiling point on this one.
 
Kelly Timoffee said:
The blanks come at 27" , Craige finished it at 25.25".

I have several rifles, a 7/08 with a Kreiger I have done 3/8 MOA , M88 I can do an inch and BLR I can do an inch on good days , my 338 LM just touch above 1/2 MOA at 500 , at 1000 I haven't' achieved that yet. Factory Vanguard in 25/06 that does well , even my 50cal inline with do about 1.5".

I wasn't clear on my comment, maybe I'll get someone to try load for it and go through the rifle.I will pay them.I don't feel like dishing out another $1,100.00 to see if it's the barrel, which in all honesty it probably isn't.

Maybe I'll post a WTB services in on the forum for someone who wants to try working this thing.But doesn't even seem like anyone is interested in that either.

Or if someone wants to take it off my hands they will get a steal of a deal.I have notoriously bad luck and it has reached the boiling point on this one.
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A lightweight contour coupled with a 25 1/4 finished length may have some interesting harmonics. I wonder if lighter loads would allow groups to tighten a little. Others may wish to comment on this. Probably before you do anything rash why not just lock it in the safe for a few months and think about it.
 
easy way to do some forend pressure only costs you a business card or a match book, fold the card in half or quarters so that you can just jam it inbetween the barrel and the tip of the stock, then shoot and see if your group improves. change the thickness of the card, by folding it, to see if you get different results. if the shooting improves then you know what you have to do. if not, then you only spent money on ammo and time at the range.
 
gunpro said:
easy way to do some forend pressure only costs you a business card or a match book, fold the card in half or quarters so that you can just jam it inbetween the barrel and the tip of the stock, then shoot and see if your group improves. change the thickness of the card, by folding it, to see if you get different results. if the shooting improves then you know what you have to do. if not, then you only spent money on ammo and time at the range.
Click to expand...

I will get to that part once I correct another issue I discovered, I'll post shortly..............
 
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