frozen screw
- Thread starter slipp
- Start date
Travis Bickle
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Upper Lower Middle Alberta
Post a picture of the screw head.
There's multiple options dependant mostly on how much meat you have to work with, where the screw is, size of it, does it sit flush with the surface or does it protrude above the surface etc etc
My favorite method (assuming the screw head is protruding from the surface) is to dremel a good deep flat head notch into it and then use application of heat to the steel around the screw (not the screw!) then penetrating oil THEN a spring loaded impact driver and a hammer, one good whack and she'll come out.
Or the head will snap off....then you can drill into the screw shaft and use an extractor bit and a small impact gun.
If that fails drill it right the hell out and tap/die fresh threads for a new bigger threaded screw etc
There's multiple options dependant mostly on how much meat you have to work with, where the screw is, size of it, does it sit flush with the surface or does it protrude above the surface etc etc
My favorite method (assuming the screw head is protruding from the surface) is to dremel a good deep flat head notch into it and then use application of heat to the steel around the screw (not the screw!) then penetrating oil THEN a spring loaded impact driver and a hammer, one good whack and she'll come out.
Or the head will snap off....then you can drill into the screw shaft and use an extractor bit and a small impact gun.
If that fails drill it right the hell out and tap/die fresh threads for a new bigger threaded screw etc
its a 1948 marlin mod 36 penetrating oil for 1 week fitted a good screw driver bit and gave it several hard raps with a brass hammer the crews recessed in the frame its the hammers screw so it beefy but not a lug nut the slots a little dog eared . oh did I mention heated it till the penetrating oil seeped up through the threads .I'm gonna keep with the penetrating oil anyone got special oil I can try
Kroil is one of the best penetrating oils that i know, you can also try evaporust if that doesn't work try iodine.
Don't leave the iodine for to long, you should clean it with hot water and soap before it gets hard.
Don't leave the iodine for to long, you should clean it with hot water and soap before it gets hard.
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Kroil is excellent, although hard to get up here as Kano Labs doesn't have a Cdn. distributor. Some places brng it in independently, though. I've read that 50/50 Acetone & ATF (ie 2/3 of "Ed's Red") is also very effective.
But it sounds like the OP has pretty much tried everything, except perhaps puttingi the part in the freezer overnight.
ps, I'm trying to imagine where this screw is. The hammer has a hole for the pivot pin and another for the cross-pin for the spring strut (??) according to this pic from Numrich:
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If you have a drill press, lock it on the table with the screw under the quill.
With a properly fitting screwdriver bit in the chuck, lower the quill and lock it solidly in the screw slot.
When itls all solid, use the chuck key in the holes in the chuck to try to back out the screw.
You will only need 1/8 tuen or even less.
The driver blade cannout back out of the screw slot.
The screw head will break, or the screw will break loose.
Use this technique after the acetone/ATF soaking.
With a properly fitting screwdriver bit in the chuck, lower the quill and lock it solidly in the screw slot.
When itls all solid, use the chuck key in the holes in the chuck to try to back out the screw.
You will only need 1/8 tuen or even less.
The driver blade cannout back out of the screw slot.
The screw head will break, or the screw will break loose.
Use this technique after the acetone/ATF soaking.
Krown 53 penetrating oil
put the item in a vice
put a good fit screwdriver in
put vice grips on the screwdriver as close to the screw as possible
put your weight down on the screwdriver (or sideways depending on how it in in the vice)
turn the vice grip to break it free
the vice grip gives you a lot more mechanical advantage
put the item in a vice
put a good fit screwdriver in
put vice grips on the screwdriver as close to the screw as possible
put your weight down on the screwdriver (or sideways depending on how it in in the vice)
turn the vice grip to break it free
the vice grip gives you a lot more mechanical advantage
Hey Jos the screw is through the main pivot hole and is frozen on the opposite side of the head I'm just wondering would marlin peen a screw and flair its thread p.s I'm gonna mix up some of that 50/50 tranny acetone mixture thanks guys I'm trying every thing you all suggest slipp
Silly me...
of course- it's the actual hammer piivot screw! For some reason I was imagining another screw somewhere! It certainly shouldn't be peened. (Neither my 1894 or 1895 is) but you'd likely see it under magnification if it were. Does the hammer #### normally? Do the internals look OK if you look up into the action from below? (Presumably you've been able to remove the lever and bolt.) The threads on the hammer screw are only long enough to engage the side plate; the rest of the shaft is smooth, so even if there was rust internally, it's odd that there is enough resistance that you can't get it out after all your efforts.
