Frustrated.

Kevin M.

Kevin M.

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Edmonton, Alberta
First off, the problem I am having only occurs with 9MM brass, never anything else I reload. I am using a lee turret press, but with the turret feature disabled so I can do batches of depriming at one time. I am still a relative newbie in terms of reloading, so hopefully it is just somthing simple I am missing.

When I am depriming 9MM Luger, about once in every 50 cases, the depriming punch will get stuck in the flash hole and be pushed up through the top of the die.

This is irriataing, but I can work around it. My major problem is that twice today the thin tip of the punch (the part that pokes the spent primer out) will become stuck in the flash hole, and pull the pin out of the punch, destroying said punch.



What am I doing wrong, and how can I fix it?!

GAH!!!! I am ready to rip my hair out!!!! What is happening!
 
You could try tightening the depriming collet so it doesn't push up so easy. Then armpower should be enough, just don't go nuts.
 
There appears to be no crimp or specific brand in all the pieces that have caused problems, and the pin is literally breaking off inside the flash hole the two times it did happen. The only thing I can find that is similar between the problem pieces is that they are all marked 9x19 instead of 9MM LUGER, but I was led to believe that the two are identical.

I had the depriming collet reasonably tight, but it seemed completely random as to when it would push the pin up and when it would break off.
 
I had the same problem with one brand of brass in a .22 hornet rifle die. The flash hole was too small so that the pin stuck in it. Have you looked at how uniform the flash holes are in your brass? Have you tried different brass?
I'm guessing that the problem is the brass rather than your press.
 
Checked in the trash can. A lot of the problem pieces (8/10) are S&B with a red dot on the primer. The full headstamp reads: S & B 9 x 19 NONTOX 08

I checked out the flash hole of this brand of brass, and the size is noticably smaller then all the other 9mm brass. I will take a pic in a bit, but for now, I will definetely stop using that brand.

I just need to slow down and check every headstamp, because those cases cost me three decappers as of now.

Good call on the brass, 99% sure that is the problem.
 
or just run a drill through to make it fit with all the rest- i've run into some ivi as well - i also remember seeing something about flash hole uniformity in one of the referance setctions of either the lee or lyman book-
 
I had the problem with s&b .22 hornet brass.
I ran a flash hole deburr tool through them, but you have to get the primer out to do that and I probably had a lot fewer case when loading for a bolt action rifle.
 
shine a light in that s& b ( sellier and beloit) brass- it might be BERDAN primed ( 2 small flash holes ) instead of one big one- why your decapping pins are breaking is that you're PUNCHING THROUGH THE ANVIL and that's A LOT harder than your standard primer cup- in the case of the berdan , it's part of the case- if it does turn out that it is berdan , you should also isolate those cases from your lot, and unload them - the priver anvil now has no support and there's 3 flash holes instead of one- an unsafe situation
 
Thanks Rob,

I am going to Sharon this Saturday, bringing some guests who are going to try shooting for the first time.

I think I pretty well solved the problem though, it was with two brands of brass having a small flash hole. I took a bunch of photos to help illustrate the problems.

The two brands were:

- S&B NONTOXIC (regular S&B worked fine, only the Nontoxic had a small flash hole)

-SX

SANY0060.jpg



This is what they were doing to the primer punch:

SANY0054.jpg


SANY0055.jpg


SANY0056.jpg



Here is a closeup of the flash holes, compared to a standard 9mm flash hole on the far right. The difference is pretty big.

SANY0063.jpg



So to all reloaders,

If you see those brands in your bucket of shells, just toss them or put them in a special pile. If you don't, beware broken primer punches.


Kevin.
 
drill the flash holes to make them the same as standard case flashholes, i've got some s&b cases and they are good cases and worth reloading just have to prep them somewhat... might be to much of a pain though...
 
Kevin
Pull those intact pins out of the brass or drive them out with a punch. Heat up the end of the rod over a propane torch and tap the pin back in!! Let cool and your good to go.
 
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