FTR rulebook concerning equipment

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MartyK2500

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Hi, setting up an FTR rifle, and just want to double check on my gunsmith so I don't end up both broke and disappointed.

Rifle with bipod and scope is 18lbs max
Must be shot off a bipod and rear bag

Other than these 2 points am I missing something else to overlook?
Thanks
 
Carefull with the weight. Make sure all is on your rifle (heatshield, scope sunshade, etc.) before you weight it, and aim for less than the limit.
 
Max weight for F-TR is 18.18 pounds / 8.25 kg exactly.

Your max allowable weight includes anything attached to the rifle that would come off the ground if the rifle is lifted. Therefore it includes the scope and sunshade and/or objective reducer lens on the scope, a mirage band on the barrel, bipod and bipod mounting parts, and if you intend to use one, a cover for the action to keep the rain out of your action. The rain cover is generally a piece of heavy gauge clear plastic that velcro's to tabs on the offhand side of the action / stock.

As BobFortier above suggests, weigh everything and give yourself some wiggle room by aiming a bit under.
The last thing you want is to show up at a match with a gun that weighs 18.15 lbs on your scale only to have it weigh 18.23 lbs on the competition scale. Yes, this actually happens. Believe it or not, I once saw a guy cut a chunk off the end of his stock to make weight at a serious match.
 
Thanks for the tips
If ever I’m too tight for weight, I imagine the stock is the only place where I could shave some out?
As far as bipods go, Jerry’s Mpod is ultralight

And stupid question, I didn’t even think about the mirage band, is it really necessary and does it install on a barrel that was cut in a regular way?

I know I’m approaching this new discipline in a funny angle, as in get a full on racing rifle before my first range visit in the sport.
I just love long range plinking and tuning so much, that I know that worst case scenario I’ll just burn it on gongs, I will just be smaller ones!
 
MartyK2500 said:
Thanks for the tips
If ever I’m too tight for weight, I imagine the stock is the only place where I could shave some out?
As far as bipods go, Jerry’s Mpod is ultralight

And stupid question, I didn’t even think about the mirage band, is it really necessary and does it install on a barrel that was cut in a regular way?

I know I’m approaching this new discipline in a funny angle, as in get a full on racing rifle before my first range visit in the sport.
I just love long range plinking and tuning so much, that I know that worst case scenario I’ll just burn it on gongs, I will just be smaller ones!
Click to expand...
My mirage bands are very simple and work, they are made of 1" wide elastic that is attached to the barrel by velcro, and yes they work!:cool:

Cat
 
If you plan your build properly you should never have to worry about where to shave weight at a match.

The barrel is going to be the heaviest item on the gun. Choose the length and profile wisely.

Another place to save weight ahead of time is with your choice of optics. Not all scopes are created equal and not all weigh the same. The Schmidt and Bender 12-50x56 has glass second to none but it weighs like a tank. March makes a 10-60 High Master which is very popular with F Class shooters because of the clarity of the glass as well as the low weight as compared to other manufacturers. Choose a heavy scope and you will need to run a lighter or shorter barrel than if you choose a light optic.

Also, your choice of stock and stock material are going to make a difference. As an example, I have two wooden laminate F-TR stocks from different manufacturers. There is more than 2 pounds difference in weight between them. I am switching to the lighter one so I can run a much heavier profile barrel this coming season.

You will need to weigh every item or do the research to get manufacturer's specifications before ordering your parts. Do some math before you put it together and you won't be stressing at the end trying to figure out where to drop an ounce or two.

Mirage bands are normally pretty simple home made items. I use a slice of corrugated plastic covered in black hockey tape which is held to the barrel with velcro. Wide waistband elastic material will work as do window blind segments. you get the idea. Ans yes, they really do work and are necessary to keep the heat from the barrel turning your sight picture into soup. You can get fancy and spend surprisingly large amounts of money on a carbon fibre mirage band but that seems really unnecessary to me.

You are correct, Jerry's MPOD is light. There are other options such as the SEB joypod depending on your budget.
 
My scope is already purchased through Peter at Hirsch.
I'm a huge (without a good reason I'll be honest) NF fan, all my bolt rifles sport a NF even my .22
Got the NF competition 15-55x52 with the FCR-1 reticle, at 27oz it seemed decent.

I get the idea, research is needed if I'm going that route.
At Fierce they gave me a weight estimate on the build.
Right now I'm about to say yes but to be honest I find the stock airbrush job to be ugly.

Yes we can say I'm fussy, but when spending next to 10K on a sporting item (scoped rifle), I like it to be visually appealing...
 
MartyK2500 said:
Forgot to mention, I’m having this built in .308 to shoot heavy 200 SMKs!
Click to expand...

2nd Generation 200 MKs are great.
I build my F T/R rifle with the intention of using only this projectile.
These are very long, pointy, bullets.... so you will want to use a reamer that has a short free bore / throat.
 
MartyK2500 said:
Thanks for the tips
If ever I’m too tight for weight, I imagine the stock is the only place where I could shave some out?
As far as bipods go, Jerry’s Mpod is ultralight

And stupid question, I didn’t even think about the mirage band, is it really necessary and does it install on a barrel that was cut in a regular way?

I know I’m approaching this new discipline in a funny angle, as in get a full on racing rifle before my first range visit in the sport.
I just love long range plinking and tuning so much, that I know that worst case scenario I’ll just burn it on gongs, I will just be smaller ones!
Click to expand...

STock is one of the SAFEST places to remove weight... think adjust buttpad furniture, tightening bolts for accessories and comb. If necessary, start swiss cheesing the interior of the stock if the design will sustain it.

Fluting can also be a way to extract a few needed ounces... shallow, straight, in even numbers.

As a last resort, 1 or 2" off the end of the barrel. Velocity isn't going to materially change AND it might make the barrel easier to tune.

when thinking overall weight, do consider how you are going to handle rain. Not a drizzle but Connaught downpours. All those bags and tents are going to get added to the weight of the rifle.

Good luck.

Jerry
 
I've always been of the opinion that with the three heaviest items being bipod, barrel or scope, one of the three gets compromised to make weight, and everyone has an thought on what is right.

Innovations continue and light bipods are much better than they used to be (I use a slightly under 3# Rempel) and a NF Competition scope. My barrels are generally Heavy Palma and some of my tapered barrels have had to be fluted to make weight in the past. I'm also in favor of shorter barrels (24-26") for the heavy bullets, which helps on the weight side. Try and target 18# with everything on to make weight - mirage bands made of aluminum blinds or plastic are a couple of ounces. Rain shades can be 4 or 5 more ounces. The sun shade on your scope is about 4 ounces if something needs to come off. Just don't cut it too close for large matches ... you can get away with being 'close' for club matches, but what are you really gaining?
 
Munkey1973 said:
Also, the 308 or 223 has to be SAMMI spec..... no Ackley Improved chambers.
Click to expand...

This is not exactly true.

The throat can be as long as you want.

Just the case body needs to be within spec.

Running 200s you will want a good long throat and I recommend a tight neck so you can neck turn. You will also want to pay close attention to the freebore diameter... Not too tight and definitely not too loose.

Make sure the base of the bearing surface sits ahead of the neck to shoulder junction where donuts form.
 
Evening

Good advice given.

you have selected one of the lightest bipods you start out with, if you select your other components based on the Mpod you will have few other bipod options (grass is always greener) FYI I have gone through 4 different bipods with drastic weight differences; plan accordingly calculate 20oz for a bipod will gives you more options.
Actions can also be weight saving. Kelbly Panda or a Barnard P. big difference in weight.

200gn bullet is a good choice. the SMK mmmm... are you committed to the Sierra's if not look at Berger's 200's the 20x or hybrids.

I disagree with Maple57 on the tight neck. F class chambers should have 3-5thou neck clearance. .342 neck possibly .341.
but do agree with him the bullet should be ahead of the neck shoulder junction for consistency and accuracy.

Cheers
Trevor
 
How do you expect to control neck tension or concentricity without first controlling neck thickness Trev?

If you neck turn with a sloppy neck, you are just making things even worse.
 
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Maple57 said:
How do you expect to control neck tension or concentricity without first controlling neck thickness Trev?

If you neck turn with a sloppy neck, you are just making things even worse.
Click to expand...

You have three different stmts.

1st stmt is tight neck chamber (I disagree). neck clearance is the consideration not chamber size. no turn necks are .342; a tight neck forces the individal to turn necks. A loaded round using unturned Lapua SRP is .338-339. selecting a no turn neck will give the desired amount of clearance and allow him to be able to shoot today and not spend hours turning 100's of piece of brass just be able to chamber a round.

2nd stmt: How do i expect to control neck tension or concentricity. using mandrels or pin gauges...(not expanders) happy to share more information but its a little is too vague a question.

3rd stmt: If you neck turn with a sloppy neck you are making things even worse... I will say we also disagree on this issue ... but again a little vague; provide numbers and we can drill down to specifics. Empirical evidence has shown chamber clearance up to 10thou have excellent accuracy. You can search for testing on this subject, one documented source is Jerry Tierney.

Jefferson said:
if you are not using a remple you are not using a bipod
Click to expand...

whole heartily agree but that is 4lbs 64 oz of goodness. even his lite versions are not lite


Cheers
Trevor
 
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