Scharfschütze
Regular
- Location
- Courtenay B.C.
Thanks for the link it helps a lot.
Full auto switch install
- Thread starter Scharfschütze
- Start date
RememberTheSomme
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Nova Scotia
Thread revisited just for all the cool guys approving of the OP's decision to MODIFY his receiver to accept a full auto switch. It would appear that some are as green regarding receivers under Canadian law as we( faceplanters-R-us) are at the look of an M-14s F/A receiver lug which makes it a prohib.
Shooter1of38
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
People should refrain from commenting on a post if they know nothing about the subject at hand.
DUMMY switches and connector rods are perfectly legal, and are just for show.
Oh, almost forgot:
People should refrain from commenting on a post if they know nothing about the subject at hand.
DUMMY switches and connector rods are perfectly legal, and are just for show.
Oh, almost forgot:
Yes but modifying your receiver to take the parts may not be legal if the full auto parts can be replaced... you have to be very careful ad if it can be converted you made a prohibited device. You can do basicly what ever you want to a firearm as long as it can't take full auto parts because as soon as you made it so it can they can bend you over the law and spank you. Modfing a reciver to say take a diffren't type of bolt doesn't change the firearm but drilling into it so the hole is the same as the m14 does change the status.
If you modify a stock thats legal you modify a mag well thats fine you drill a hole and the full auto parts can drop in your screwed... Even if you don't put them in
Who's approving of modifying the receiver? I thought the consensus was to grind the tab off the connector rod. Nothing illegal about that.
I think people are still confused.
An F/A receiver has the op rod dismount notch in the center, when the F/A bits are assembled there's a tab on the rod that fits inside that notch.
What the OP was asking was when installing a DUMMY (ie fake) F/A kits, should he mill out the rail to accept the tab on the rod, or just grind off the tab. As mentioned in previous posts the correct answer is to grind off the tab.
No one here is talking about motifying the receiver to accept full auto parts... that would be next to impossble anyway without welding on a lug.
All he was asking about was the correct way to mount a FAKE F/A kit to his stock... hopefully his question has been answered.
An F/A receiver has the op rod dismount notch in the center, when the F/A bits are assembled there's a tab on the rod that fits inside that notch.
What the OP was asking was when installing a DUMMY (ie fake) F/A kits, should he mill out the rail to accept the tab on the rod, or just grind off the tab. As mentioned in previous posts the correct answer is to grind off the tab.
No one here is talking about motifying the receiver to accept full auto parts... that would be next to impossble anyway without welding on a lug.
All he was asking about was the correct way to mount a FAKE F/A kit to his stock... hopefully his question has been answered.
Thanks for your clarification. I understand completely. I've installed several of Hawk's kits and made my own dummy kits from parts I managed to scrounge here and there.
The picture I posted is a USGI receiver and selector assembly owned by a friend in New Zealand. With restrictions they are allowed to own FA receivers and can install the FA parts and then weld them to make them non functional.
As has already been stated, the parts are purely cosmetic and give the rifle a more authentic look. That's all.
I recently took a full selector assembly and modified it to fit the rifle.
The actual part that trips the sear was of course removed.
I started by milling off the tab on the connector rod that sits in the GI receiver's take down notch.
Then fitted a small aluminum block into the selector cutout in the GI stock. This block has a hole that the selector switch assembly passes thru.
Many of the new norc receivers have the connector slot milled up front just above the connector pin.
This enables the front of the connector rod to have an engagement area and move with the oprod like the real deal. A usgi length connector pin was used as well.
What I ended up with was a fully functioning, complete in all apearances, dummy selector kit. The owner was super happy with the end product.
Only problem is that the complete selector/connector kits are so rare.... Thus enter the Hawk"s dummy kit
Sadly, I have only one of these full kits left for a future personal build. (Not for sale hehehe)
The actual part that trips the sear was of course removed.
I started by milling off the tab on the connector rod that sits in the GI receiver's take down notch.
Then fitted a small aluminum block into the selector cutout in the GI stock. This block has a hole that the selector switch assembly passes thru.
Many of the new norc receivers have the connector slot milled up front just above the connector pin.
This enables the front of the connector rod to have an engagement area and move with the oprod like the real deal. A usgi length connector pin was used as well.
What I ended up with was a fully functioning, complete in all apearances, dummy selector kit. The owner was super happy with the end product.
Only problem is that the complete selector/connector kits are so rare.... Thus enter the Hawk"s dummy kit
Sadly, I have only one of these full kits left for a future personal build. (Not for sale hehehe)
I'm gonna expand on this cuz I've been padding my post count all night LOL
In a genuine M14 , "some" operators were supplied with the kits to make their rifle select fire. Though all real M14 are select fire capable, most were not issued with the parts.
So it starts at the trigger group with real m14 rifles having a winged disconnect. Most commercial M14 rifles have a disconnect that is NOT winged.
The switch assembly on a real m14, fits thru a flange on the receiver. Any receiver with this flange is a prohib. The switch has a tab , that when engaged, makes contact with that winged disconnect and prevents rear hammer hook lock up... Thus firing full auto.
Any modification you make MUST not include a winged sear and functioning switch tab.... That would be a serious mistake.
The connector rod attaches to the switch, has a tab about 1/2 way along the receiver that fits the corresponding oprod take down notch on a real m14. We mill off the tab, we don't make a slot.... This is bad as receivers with that slot are generally prohib.
One more selector assembly detail on the receiver is the forward engagement slot for the connector rod. It is located just above connector (spring guide) pin. On some of the new shorties, this slot is there, and a bonus for those wanting to use a dummy connector. On most chinese rifles, that slot is not there.
Long and short, making a dummy kit from the real parts can be challenging, best bet is to get a hawks kit
In a genuine M14 , "some" operators were supplied with the kits to make their rifle select fire. Though all real M14 are select fire capable, most were not issued with the parts.
So it starts at the trigger group with real m14 rifles having a winged disconnect. Most commercial M14 rifles have a disconnect that is NOT winged.
The switch assembly on a real m14, fits thru a flange on the receiver. Any receiver with this flange is a prohib. The switch has a tab , that when engaged, makes contact with that winged disconnect and prevents rear hammer hook lock up... Thus firing full auto.
Any modification you make MUST not include a winged sear and functioning switch tab.... That would be a serious mistake.
The connector rod attaches to the switch, has a tab about 1/2 way along the receiver that fits the corresponding oprod take down notch on a real m14. We mill off the tab, we don't make a slot.... This is bad as receivers with that slot are generally prohib.
One more selector assembly detail on the receiver is the forward engagement slot for the connector rod. It is located just above connector (spring guide) pin. On some of the new shorties, this slot is there, and a bonus for those wanting to use a dummy connector. On most chinese rifles, that slot is not there.
Long and short, making a dummy kit from the real parts can be challenging, best bet is to get a hawks kit
