Full length rail? sks?

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ColassalEntry

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Sorry if this has been asked already or not.

Is there such thing as a full length battle rail for an SKS?

Like it would replace the upper handguard and come all the way past the reciever cover and mount to the reciever? Or something along those lines? Anybody know?
 
Never seen one, but you could get a tri-rail for the receiver, a railed scout mount and the UGT quad rail... Not the same as a full length set up, but there would be a lot of rail space.
 
m3conversion said:
Never seen one, but you could get a tri-rail for the receiver, a railed scout mount and the UGT quad rail... Not the same as a full length set up, but there would be a lot of rail space.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of getting that UTG quad rail for my SKS, but wondering how accurate it is for a red dot. Rather get a BC tactical Scout Mount but really like the look of the quad rail and wouldnt mind putting a foregrip...
 
There is an interesting page on another site by author "LESchwartz", titled:

"The Ultimate Removable SKS Mount"

ht tp://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=85926.0

This is an excellent "how-to" article on adding a "full rail" to an SKS, extensively illustrated, and described step-by-step.

The idea is similar to the Top Rail mounts for the CZ-858, developed independently by DMcFaul and Kasat and written up in Curtton's CZ-858 Optics, Sights & Mounts sticky [f.TOP RAIL MOUNT] - put a full length of picatinny rail between the rear dust cover and the rear iron sight mounting.

The front end of the picatinny rail is pinned to the rear sight mounting by a bolt. The rear end of the rail is attached to the top of the dust cover with screws and tapped holes (aided by a layer of J-B Weld between the picatinny rail and the dust cover). The rear takedown pin of the dust cover is removed and both sides of the receiver, as well as the dust cover rear block, are tapped for a cross bolt that threads through all three.

Both the front and rear ends of the picatinny rail require milling (or grindng and filing, for those of us without milling machines) in order to achieve a close fit at the mounting points. However, no "gunsmithing" as such is required. The dust cover that is drilled and tapped is a replacement such as can be purchased from any number of suppliers (NcStar, Leapers, Fitco, etc.), and the only permanent physical change to the rifle is the tapping of the hole for the dust cover takedown latch pin. This step could be omitted if the builder didn't want to permanently alter the rifle. The issue of return to zero is discussed at length, and the reason for tapping the receiver and dust cover takedown pin hole is explained.

Mine is under construction - slowly. I am also considering the Weaver Convert-a-Mount option which, although not "full rail" gives a wide variety of choices in size and type of optic to be mounted. It's also remarkably inexpensive.

For the full story on these and other options, check out Curtton's SKS sights and optics sticky at the top of this forum. Many contributions and many different ideas have gone into making it a superb reference document.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=439418
 
Flying Beaver said:
There is an interesting page on another site by author "LESchwartz", titled:

"The Ultimate Removable SKS Mount"

ht tp://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=85926.0

This is an excellent "how-to" article on adding a "full rail" to an SKS, extensively illustrated, and described step-by-step.

The idea is similar to the Top Rail mounts for the CZ-858, developed independently by DMcFaul and Kasat and written up in Curtton's CZ-858 Optics, Sights & Mounts sticky [f.TOP RAIL MOUNT] - put a full length of picatinny rail between the rear dust cover and the rear iron sight mounting.

The front end of the picatinny rail is pinned to the rear sight mounting by a bolt. The rear end of the rail is attached to the top of the dust cover with screws and tapped holes (aided by a layer of J-B Weld between the picatinny rail and the dust cover). The rear takedown pin of the dust cover is removed and both sides of the receiver, as well as the dust cover rear block, are tapped for a cross bolt that threads through all three.

Both the front and rear ends of the picatinny rail require milling (or grindng and filing, for those of us without milling machines) in order to achieve a close fit at the mounting points. However, no "gunsmithing" as such is required. The dust cover that is drilled and tapped is a replacement such as can be purchased from any number of suppliers (NcStar, Leapers, Fitco, etc.), and the only permanent physical change to the rifle is the tapping of the hole for the dust cover takedown latch pin. This step could be omitted if the builder didn't want to permanently alter the rifle. The issue of return to zero is discussed at length, and the reason for tapping the receiver and dust cover takedown pin hole is explained.

Mine is under construction - slowly. I am also considering the Weaver Convert-a-Mount option which, although not "full rail" gives a wide variety of choices in size and type of optic to be mounted. It's also remarkably inexpensive.

For the full story on these and other options, check out Curtton's SKS sights and optics sticky at the top of this forum. Many contributions and many different ideas have gone into making it a superb reference document.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=439418
Click to expand...
cou:
Wow you like headaches hey?
Observations:

• Ability to hold zero when removed and reinstalled: For this system, getting the dust cover back to within 0.003" would means that the mount will be be accurate to within about an inch at 100 yards. (Note: 0.003 is about an about 1/8 of a turn on the stabilizing screws.) Testing is pending.
• Durability: Frequent cycles on the front screw will cause the aluminum to wear. A steel insert may be needed over the long term.
• Epoxy: Those who don't like epoxy could replace the aluminum rail with a steel unit. You could then weld the rail to the dust cover. (This would also solve the previously mentioned "durability issue".)
• Additional stability would be obtained by using the "Marcus dust cover mounting method". His method could be used to further stabilize rear of the mount.
• Shell deflector: The shell deflector is "built in". However, only time will tell if some sort of shaping is needed to get reliable ejection.
Click to expand...
K if you are really serious and have time on a miling machine you will need to do three things.
  1. Machine a rail that goes from the top of the gas tube to the rear of the reciever.
  2. This long rail then gets screw to a custom gas tube (I would use the NcStar 1 and toss there crappy rail)& you will lose the rear sight pocket as the rail will also fill that void space. This will become your center referance point for you rail and also act as a buffer from the metal bashing back and forth. Although at this step you will have to remove a few rail spaces so you can still use the gas system release lever.
  3. The rear pin for the rear cover will have to be remade longer and a u shape piece of metal will be inverted and drilled plus tapped for the rear of the rail to be properly mounted to. This will get sandwich between the rail and the reciever.
If you can make all 3 of these things happen then you are in bussiness but then you will also have the issue with spent casings to deal with.
This is were the headache begins. Also this rail system even if a company was to produce it would most likely cost between 2 to 3 times what the rifle is worth.
:welcome:
 
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