G34 as a bullseye gun?

chaslavk

chaslavk

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My shooting habits lean towards slow aimed fire, so I am thinking of buying, when money is available, some target gun for less than $1000. I tried CZ 75 Shadow and was impressed with its accuracy but I really like the trigger of my G22, in fact Glock trigger is my favorite trigger so I want to go with G34 but if it is not very accurate I'm going to try something else.

How accurate is G34 for bullseye?
Thank you.
 
Glocks are not considered accurate, loose tolerances. Why not try a S&W like the 19-3 or something in that era. Wonderful guns. I think a good revolver is more accurate than a semi anyday.
 
My first real pistol was a G34. I am a very good shot with above average skills and I can say without hesitation that a G34 is not a candidate for bullseye.
Look elsewhere. It's a combat pistol, and a very good one, not a tack driver. Not what it was designed for.

Second for a revolver, no comparison accuracy wise.
 
Just remember in Bullseye in addition to slow fire you are shooting timed fire (5 shots in 20 seconds) and rapid fire (5 shots in 10 seconds).

If you're shooting a revolver you have to be really good at 1) thumbing back the hammer or 2) shooting double action. One handed, of course.

It's rare to see a revolver in Bullseye competitions these days, most shooters have semi-auto pistols (Walther, Pardini, etc.)
 
JimmieA. said:
Glocks are not considered accurate, loose tolerances. Why not try a S&W like the 19-3 or something in that era. Wonderful guns. I think a good revolver is more accurate than a semi anyday.
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loll..sorry, but no.

i do bullseye shooting a lot with my G35 and G17.

this is at 25 yards in slow firing mode with my G17. while the flyer is related to the the shooter himself, this particular unit has a good fit slide to frame.

20rwjyb.jpg


just keep in mind all guns aren't equal. i bought a G34 brand new in box,and that piece of sh** can't group better than 2'' at 10 yard whatever the load and aol i use. the same load used in my G17 providing great accuracy gives just crap with my 34 .but my particular 34 unit is a lemon, one of the rare existing glock lemon,it can happen.so i ordered a storm lake barrel for it. i own many glock pistols they're all very accurate pistols except the 34.

that said, sure a revo is more suited to bullseye shooting by design.no flex, it's very rigid, so yes by defenition more suited to bullseye shooting.

however, i own a CZ tactical sport which can compete any day against any revolvers depending of the end user of course ; it's a tack driver , not that it's more accurate than my glocks by design,it's more that the trigger allows for faster shooting yet keeping a great accuracy.

keep in mind that the unit's frame slide fit, the load used,and the dude who holds the grip is what make a real difference.
 
JimmieA. said:
Glocks are not considered accurate, loose tolerances. Why not try a S&W like the 19-3 or something in that era. Wonderful guns. I think a good revolver is more accurate than a semi anyday.
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then why is every single gun used in the olympic bullsey shooting a semi ?

go to youtube and watch a few Olympic finals. have a look at what they use. they are the best bullseye shooters in the world.

the truth is that a revolver has six different chambers that all have minute variations in both physical dimentions and alignment and can not compare to something that is shooting from one single chamber in the setup of an Olympic match grade bullseye gun.

any semi with a slide that moves and has to lock up has to have clearance to move and not bind, period. and they will never do it 100% the same way 100% of the time. the barrel and slide (which has the sights) both move apart from each other and come back together (which will be a tiny bit different every time

Olympic match grade pistols run captive bolts. so there is no moving slide to lock up at all, the frame holding the sights and the barrel is one solid piece. which does not move at all so there is no clearance whatsoever. so the barrel is aligned to the sights the same way 100 times out of 100 because they dont separate and come back together.

I am not knocking revolvers, I shoot revolver in IDPA and LOVE it. I own a 4.2 686 smith and a performance center 460 and a NAA mini master, i love revolvers. but the truth is the truth

like i said if you don't believe me go watch some Olympic footage. you wont see a single revolver being shot by anyone. there is your proof.
 
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Just my two cents in this discussion. I have used my Glock 17, complete with SRT and 3lb pull, and have attained not too bad results shooting bullseye in slow fire, but as soon as I move on to timed fire my results go down the drain. I get considerably better results with my S & W Model 52 as well as with my model 14 in all aspects of bullseye, especially in the timed and rapid fire compared to my Glock. The revolver does have a bit of a handicap in the rapid fire when I take time to pull the hammer back for single action. In short I just don't like the glock trigger for bullseye.
 
volodumyr said:
Just my two cents in this discussion. I have used my Glock 17, complete with SRT and 3lb pull, and have attained not too bad results shooting bullseye in slow fire, but as soon as I move on to timed fire my results go down the drain. I get considerably better results with my S & W Model 52 as well as with my model 14 in all aspects of bullseye, especially in the timed and rapid fire compared to my Glock. The revolver does have a bit of a handicap in the rapid fire when I take time to pull the hammer back for single action. In short I just don't like the glock trigger for bullseye.
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i agree to some extends.....target i've posted there was done with my stock 17 in slow aiming mode .

true enough ,when the pace increase, they're not the most easiest triggers out there while the mandatory production class IPSC and esp stock OEM trigger unit can be worked out enough to get a sensibly lower weight break ( 5lbs minimum) and over all much smoother -silky action.

i'm not competing production class anymore,all my glocks are either limited 10 or open, so all my glocks sports a ZEV TECH FULLCRUM drop in trigger. problem solved ; very close to a SA for much faster follow shots.

in bonus, even with a custom trigger,adjustable sights,tungsten guide rod, Dawson ice heavy magwell,ti pins,ti slide stop etcetcetcetc..in short all the twists and whistles available for glocks, that gun is no way close to what a semi custom 1911 cost,and is as much accurate and fast.

here's my limited 34


2n0rj2o.jpg
 
Sigtactical, that is some VERY nice shooting. As someone that plays with accuracy shooting I know that it's a rare day when I can even approach that sort of group with my BEST gun.

You pretty much admit that you got yourself one of the better examples. And let's face it, you can chalk that up to a bit of luck. Having said that your unique gun obviously paried up with a good shooter or you would not be producing this sort of group on a regular basis.

Of the Glocks I've shot they were all average other than one which really seemed to perform and make me look good. But given that Glocks are service guns first and foremost it stands to reason that now and then all the allowed tolerances will add up the right way to produce a "match" caliber of gun. Meanwhile the vast majority are going to group somewhat bigger even with a good shooter at the trigger.

If I had to go out and buy a gun for slow fire accuracy style shooting I'm afraid that for all the above reasons it would not be a Glock. I'd likely go for a good revolver or one of the semis with a known better reputation for accuracy. Such models as the Colt Gold Match model come to mind for one. The Sig P210 has a good reputation as well. But at a high price to boot.

For quite a while my S&W Model 19 was the best shooting gun in my arsenal. My 1911 came close but not with the consistency to oust the 19. Then someone let me try an STI Rangemaster in .45ACP. The first magazine produced a group as tight as anything I'd ever done. The second was even smaller. And this from a gun that I had never held before.

So if your idea of good times is shooting at a slow measured pace for accuracy I'd suggest you consider some other options. On the other hand if you really, really like the Glock trigger that much then look into accurizing a Glock. It can be done as the one I shot belonging to a buddy can attest. It had a barely IPSC legal disconnector in it which smoothened and lightened the trigger pull. And from there you could invest some cash towards tightening up the tolerances between slide frame and barrel to further enhance the gun up to a match grade performance level.

By the time you're done though you'll be up to the price of a nice mid grade STI 1911 model. Or for much less you could shop for and buy a very nice low round count S&W revolver in good condition. All of these options will produce really nice groups if you're up to the task.
 
sask farmboy said:
then why is every single gun used in the olympic bullsey shooting a semi ?

go to youtube and watch a few Olympic finals. have a look at what they use. they are the best bullseye shooters in the world.

the truth is that a revolver has six different chambers that all have minute variations in both physical dimentions and alignment and can not compare to something that is shooting from one single chamber in the setup of an Olympic match grade bullseye gun.

any semi with a slide that moves and has to lock up has to have clearance to move and not bind, period. and they will never do it 100% the same way 100% of the time. the barrel and slide (which has the sights) both move apart from each other and come back together (which will be a tiny bit different every time

Olympic match grade pistols run captive bolts. so there is no moving slide to lock up at all, the frame holding the sights and the barrel is one solid piece. which does not move at all so there is no clearance whatsoever. so the barrel is aligned to the sights the same way 100 times out of 100 because they dont separate and come back together.

I am not knocking revolvers, I shoot revolver in IDPA and LOVE it. I own a 4.2 686 smith and a performance center 460 and a NAA mini master, i love revolvers. but the truth is the truth

like i said if you don't believe me go watch some Olympic footage. you wont see a single revolver being shot by anyone. there is your proof.
Click to expand...

Any chance you could provide a link to some of these Olympic guns? I'm interested, even if just to learn something new. I'm willing to bet these little items cost more than a good revolver. The STI Target Master sounds interesting, have to look at that unit.
 
As an old fart bullseye shooter, allow me to wade in. Formal competition is under two sets of rules, NRA for American 2700 matches and the ISSF for international and Olympic shooting, and pistols must fit specific dimensional parameters and trigger release weight. I ran "gun check" at most of the national matches over the past decade, and is must sadly inform all of the Glockenspiel supporters that not a single one ever came to play. A useful catalog of match pistols can be found at TargetShooting.ca, but it is badly out of date as many of the pistols listed are no longer in production. The 2700 allows optics, but ISSF does not. Both require a SINGLE hand be used, and an obvious question when someone shows you a target is whether or not it was one or two handed. Lots of bullseye information can be found through Google, but some important sites can be found infer ISSF, NRA, TargetTalk.org, etc. FYI the majority of bullseye shooting is .22 and Pardini and Walther GSP and SSP are the most popular players. Also find a club. CSSA and The Shooting Federation of Canada maintain lists of these.

cheers. Dr Jim
 
Why is everyone focused on the idea of shooting competition events and the rules about that? The OP only said he prefers slow and measured shooting. Not a whisper about actually competing in matches.
 
BCRider said:
Sigtactical, that is some VERY nice shooting. As someone that plays with accuracy shooting I know that it's a rare day when I can even approach that sort of group with my BEST gun.

You pretty much admit that you got yourself one of the better examples. And let's face it, you can chalk that up to a bit of luck. Having said that your unique gun obviously paried up with a good shooter or you would not be producing this sort of group on a regular basis.

Of the Glocks I've shot they were all average other than one which really seemed to perform and make me look good. But given that Glocks are service guns first and foremost it stands to reason that now and then all the allowed tolerances will add up the right way to produce a "match" caliber of gun. Meanwhile the vast majority are going to group somewhat bigger even with a good shooter at the trigger.

If I had to go out and buy a gun for slow fire accuracy style shooting I'm afraid that for all the above reasons it would not be a Glock. I'd likely go for a good revolver or one of the semis with a known better reputation for accuracy. Such models as the Colt Gold Match model come to mind for one. The Sig P210 has a good reputation as well. But at a high price to boot.

For quite a while my S&W Model 19 was the best shooting gun in my arsenal. My 1911 came close but not with the consistency to oust the 19. Then someone let me try an STI Rangemaster in .45ACP. The first magazine produced a group as tight as anything I'd ever done. The second was even smaller. And this from a gun that I had never held before.

So if your idea of good times is shooting at a slow measured pace for accuracy I'd suggest you consider some other options. On the other hand if you really, really like the Glock trigger that much then look into accurizing a Glock. It can be done as the one I shot belonging to a buddy can attest. It had a barely IPSC legal disconnector in it which smoothened and lightened the trigger pull. And from there you could invest some cash towards tightening up the tolerances between slide frame and barrel to further enhance the gun up to a match grade performance level.

By the time you're done though you'll be up to the price of a nice mid grade STI 1911 model. Or for much less you could shop for and buy a very nice low round count S&W revolver in good condition. All of these options will produce really nice groups if you're up to the task.
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Nice post and accurate as far as I'm concerned.. I like my Glock but go to my STI for tighter groups..
 
BCRider said:
Why is everyone focused on the idea of shooting competition events and the rules about that? The OP only said he prefers slow and measured shooting. Not a whisper about actually competing in matches.
Click to expand...

The OP asked if the glock was accurate enough for Bullseye. Bullseye is a competition event.
 
JimmieA. said:
Any chance you could provide a link to some of these Olympic guns? I'm interested, even if just to learn something new. I'm willing to bet these little items cost more than a good revolver. The STI Target Master sounds interesting, have to look at that unit.
Click to expand...

http://www.targetshooting.ca/refram...argetshooting.ca/firearm_db_all.cfm?classid=3

they cost a lot new but if you look around you will find used ones that are far less money

ChiliDawg said:
Are you serious in bullseye or is it a passing fancy. I use a Walther GSP in .22, a Walther GSP in .32 and Colt Gold Cup.
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that is my exact setup also for ISSF and NRA.
 
They are excluded because they are used in international competition. Legal for anyone to buy.

http://laws-lois.justice.gc.ca/eng/regulations/SOR-98-465/page-2.html#h-4


LIST OF PRESCRIBED EXCLUDED HANDGUNS

Column 1 Column 2 Column 3
Item Make Model Calibre
1. Benelli MP 90 S 32 S&W Long
2. Domino OP 601 22 Short
3. Erma ESP 85A 32 S&W Long
4. FAS CF 603 32 S&W Long
5. FAS 601 22 Short
6. Hammerli-Walther 201 22 Short
7. Hammerli-Walther 202 22 Short
8. Hammerli 230 22 Short
9. Hammerli 230-1 22 Short
10. Hammerli 230-2 22 Short
11. Hammerli 232 22 Short
12. Hammerli 280 32 S&W Long
13. Hammerli P240 32 S&W Long
14. Hammerli SP-20 22 LR
15. Hammerli SP-20 32 S&W Long
16. High Standard Olympic 22 Short
17. Manurhin MR 32 Match 32 S&W Long
18. Pardini GP 22 Short
19. Pardini GP Schumann 22 Short
20. Pardini HP 32 S&W Long
21. Pardini MP 32 S&W Long
22. Sako 22-32 22 Short
23. Sako 22-32 22 LR
24. Sako 22-32 32 S&W Long
25. Sako Tri-Ace 22 Short
26. Sako Tri-Ace 22 LR
27. Sako Tri-Ace 32 S&W Long
28. Unique DES 69 22 LR
29. Unique VO 79 22 Short
30. Unique DES 32 U 32 S&W Long
31. Vostok TOZ 96 32 S&W Long
32. Walther GSP 22 LR
33. Walther GSP 22 Short
34. Walther GSP 32 S&W Long
35. Walther OSP 22 LR
36. Walther OSP 22 Short
37. Walther OSP 32 S&W Long
 
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