Garand - carbon build-up and detail cleaning

rmckeon

rmckeon

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hey guys,

I was hoping that someone with a few years experience with cleaning and maintaining their Garand might be able to empart some wisdom to a guy like me who has just bought himself a 60+ year old Garand, and is looking to keep it in as good a condition as possible.

I've noticed a fair amount of carbon being collected on the op rod underneath the front handguard - behind the gas cylinder. I know this needs to be cleaned, and I intend to get to it tonight. but, some initial questions are:
1) what is the best way to remove the carbon? (I've heard that bore cleaner leaves a residue, and I'm concerned because I understand that the system needs to run "dry" and that that NOTHING should be remain on the rod after cleaning)
2) what are some of the most common areas of carbon build-up that I should look out for? (may as well get to all of it while it's broken down)
3) as for lubbricating the action, how much grease should be used, and most importantly WHERE should it be used? (are there problem areas to watch for?)
4) what are some other good maintenance tips to help keep my precious Garand in exceptional working condition for years to come?

I also have another question that's sorta related to maintenance: I've heard that using rounds over 150 grn can be injurious to the gas cylinder & op rod, is this true, false, or subjective? I've done a bit of reading on the net, and there doesn't seem to be a definitive answer on this ... yet some Garand "parents" seem to be pretty particular about this subject. I've fired 180 grn rounds from it, but am thinking of sticking to 150 grn moving forward.

thanks!!!!!
Rob
 
Hello, I have several Garands that came to me in the same condition as you described. If your not putting thousands of rounds through them a thorough cleaning of the op-rod should last a long time. I would just wipe it down with solvent until its clean, then wipe it dry with a clean rag.

I smear just enough grease on with my finger to provide lubrication to wear areas. The more you shoot, you will learn how much is enough. Some areas need more than others, i.e. tracks take more than lugs.
Grease both lugs of the bolt, I also grease anywhere else I see wear on the bolt, the cam track on the op-rod, bolt tracks in the receiver, lugs on the trigger guard, and the tracks in the receiver for said lugs. I also grease the side of the barrel where the op-rod may come in contact, usually over the date and drawing number. That should get you started. Hope this helps.
 
"...bore cleaner leaves a residue..." Nope. No oil or grease in the gas system or chamber though.
"...over 150 grn..." The rifle was designed to use .30 M1 ammo with its 174.5 grain bullet at 2650fps. Not .30 M2 ammo with its 152 grain bullet orioginally at 2700fps. The .30 M2 ammo's muzzle velocity was raised to 2800fps in 1940 to match the ballistics of the .30 AP ammo's 168 grain bullet.
Commercial factory ammo using 150 to 180 grain bullets will be fine, despite what you see on the assorted forums. There never has been much, if any, surplus .30-06 ammo in Canada. I've never seen case lots of it in 30 plus years. Commercial factory was all we had. No fuss or bother using it. Don't use any Hornady 'light magnums' though.
The rifle performs best with handloaded 165 grain hunting bullets or 168 grain match bullets using IMR4064 and regular large rifle primers(CCI 'milspec' primers are not required). IMR4895 will do, but IMR4064 gives more consistent accuracy. Full length resizing is required every time.
The latest Hornady manual has a chapter with Garand specific loads too.
Go buy a copy of Hatcher's Book of the Garand and a copy of Hatcher's Notebook. Your local gun shop or Amazon.
This is from the 'biggerhammer' TM No. 9-1005-222-12. This'd be the one you want to download. Note the need for the provided UN & PW.
Apply a light coat of rifle grease to the following surfaces:
(1) Locking lugs of bolt, operating lug, and recesses.
(2) Bolt guide.
(3) Cams on trigger and hammer.
 
The Combo tool for the Garand is great for cleaning the threads on the muzzle and gas cylinder. It works great if the brush is new. It wont hurt the finish unless your a caveman about it. All it leaves is a copper film that cleans off easily. I tried cleaning the threads with a pick once and scratched the park all to hell. That combo tool is better than anything new on the market IMO.
 
The recommendation of NOT using bullets more then 150 grains is not correct.
Currently I am using the Hornady 168 Gr. A-Max Moly coated Match bullet with IMR4064 powder. It works fantastic and is incredibly accurate...best group for 5 shots measured slightly under 1" at 100 yards. The gun functions flawlessly.
Plus the added bonus that the same bullet/powder/weight combination works even better in my 1903/1922 sporter. Just have to try it in the 1903 Remington.
Cheers
 
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