Garand chucking brass EVERYWHERE

I <3 M14

I <3 M14

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Need some help from the garand gurus...

I've got a tanker garand that is great. It's accurate and is %100 reliable. The only issue is that is chucks brass all over hells half acre. They can land 5 feet in front of me, 5 feet behind me and anywhere in between. Any ideas what i can do to have them fly a little more consistantly in one direction?

TIA
 
I"m inclined to think that is gonna be the same thing as asking a SKS to neatly pile its brass. i don't think there is much you can do unless you want to mount a ugly shell deflector
 
First off, friend, the Garand wasn't engineered as a shorty, so your gas is being taken off at higher pressures than it would be if the barrel was full length. Operational speed of the Garand action depends a lot of the characteristics of that gas pulse.

What ammo are you using? That also could be very important.

If you are handloading, remember that you have a very short barrel. This is completely incompatible with slower-burning powders. Military Spec for the .30-'06 ammo to be used in the Garand is IMR-4895 powder. I think that if I were loading for a shorty Garand, I would be using RL-7 or 3031 and definitely nothing slower.

OTOH, have you checked your Bolt? You COULD have crap built-up in the Ejector Tunnel in the Bolt.

Hope this helps.
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It's been rebarreled to .308. I've been shooting commercial .308 and various 7.62. Seems to do it with all types of ammo.

I'll have a look at the bolt thanks.
 
IMR-4895 is also the powder of choice for the 7.62 NATO as made in the USA.

Still think I would be handloading for a shorty with something a bit faster. The more consistent you can make the gas pulse at the muzzle, the more consistent your cycling will be.

Good luck.
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I <3 M14 said:
Need some help from the garand gurus...

I've got a tanker garand that is great. It's accurate and is %100 reliable. The only issue is that is chucks brass all over hells half acre. They can land 5 feet in front of me, 5 feet behind me and anywhere in between. Any ideas what i can do to have them fly a little more consistantly in one direction?

TIA
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I think that is just how they shoot. Every time someone with an M1 or M14 comes beside me, I get ready for all the casings flying my way.
 
A stock condition Garand which is properly set up and correctly lubricated will deposit brass in the 1 to 3 o'clock area. There are no standards for a so-called "tanker" modification. Shortening the ejector spring somewhat will cause less vigorous brass distribution. You might try shortening the spring incrementally with a Dremel cutt-off wheel.
 
I use 47.5 grns of IMR-4895/CCI-200 primers/Hogdon 150grn fmjbt/milsurp brass and my brass pretty much lands in the same spot.Mind you as smellie pointed out, the shorter gas system will effect this.You might want to acquire an adjustable gas plug for your "tanker" this might help with overpresure?Pocketfisherman had some for sale in the EE(I bought one)if you are interested pm him.Hope this helps.
 
purple said:
A stock condition Garand which is properly set up and correctly lubricated will deposit brass in the 1 to 3 o'clock area. There are no standards for a so-called "tanker" modification. Shortening the ejector spring somewhat will cause less vigorous brass distribution. You might try shortening the spring incrementally with a Dremel cutt-off wheel.
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that's a documented mod in the states- but be sure and have MORE THAN ONE spring around- personally, i wouldn't buy a garand for that very reason- some work; some don't - depends on who does the "mod" or builds it- even the shorties out of springfield armories have a "reputation" ; sometimes all you can do is buy a standard length and relegate that to the back of the safe- it IS that bad
 
I seem to recall that you open the bleed hole in the barrel to one size bigger. Check the NRA site, I think it is there. NRA Life Member
 
The gas port in the .308/7.62 barrel is larger than in the standard .30-06 barrel. I wouldn't mess with this if the rifle is cycling OK. As mentioned, make sure that the rifle is properly greased and cut a couple of coils off the end of the ejector spring. A shorter ejector spring will case the brass to fall closer to the rifle, but there are no guarentees on what direction it will go.
 
If you get one of the adjustable gas cylinder lock screws from pocketfisherman (I think?) you can settle it down. It's just reacting violently to the combination of short barrel and hi pressure. I rebarreled mine to 7.62 and had exactly what you're experiencing so I trimmed my extractor spring. The adjustable screws were not available here then. Now I'd just get one. I may anyway and change the spring back to original. Don't touch the gas port. It's factory.
 
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