Garand ejection issues

Mark-II

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
63   0   0
Location
Wpg
I've had an m305 for awhile but I'm new to its daddy.

I've a M1 Garand in 7.62. So far I've only shot some of my m-305 reloads through it, which are too weak for complete cycling, and some norc surplus

Ejection is 4 - 5 o'clock and strong. Problem is I'm left handed and the casings are regularly beaning me on the ear muff or hitting me in the right eye when bench resting it.

Now, my safety glasses are prescription, so having them scratched really annoys me.

This is a built rifle with low round count that was assembled by someone whom everyone here respects.

So what's the problem? Gun? Ammo? Me having too fat a head?

I'm used to the m-305 tossing brass forwards so was really unprepared for this.

I understand that lubrication is the first step, so I'll strip, clean, and use a grade 1 grease before trying it out again. Just looking for any other pointers.

I will be reloading soon, using 150gr plated bullets and H4895, but for winter I have a case of this norc stuff to burn.
 
The .308 case weighs less than the .30-06 case and for .308 use you need a weaker ejector spring. Remove your extractor spring and clip one or two coils from it.
 
Been shooting an M1 Rifle left for 40 years with no fuss. You have it lubed correctly? Improperly lubed M1 eject differently. As daft as that sounds. Otherwise, it's an ejector spring issue.
The free .pdf manuals are here. Add the W's and note the need for the provided UN & PW. You want FM-23-5, TM-9-1275(Ordnance, not ordanance. Fulton's monkies can't spell.) and TM-9-1005-222-12
.biggerhammer.net/manuals/
You may want to switch to IMR4895 or IMR4064 too. H4895 will do, but the IMR4895 gives you a bit more velocity and pressure. Not much more though. Only 50 FPS with 150's. The 4064 is just more consistently accurate.
 
Been shooting an M1 Rifle left for 40 years with no fuss. You have it lubed correctly? Improperly lubed M1 eject differently. As daft as that sounds. Otherwise, it's an ejector spring issue.
The free .pdf manuals are here. Add the W's and note the need for the provided UN & PW. You want FM-23-5, TM-9-1275(Ordnance, not ordanance. Fulton's monkies can't spell.) and TM-9-1005-222-12
.biggerhammer.net/manuals/
You may want to switch to IMR4895 or IMR4064 too. H4895 will do, but the IMR4895 gives you a bit more velocity and pressure. Not much more though. Only 50 FPS with 150's. The 4064 is just more consistently accurate.


Thanks - I'll get myself some light reading. IMR 4895 certainly seems to be more available. I've just got 4 or 5 pounds of H4895 on hand, and I swallowed their line about consistency across broad temperature ranges when I first made my choice. 4064 I've never used, so have not been watching out for. I picked up a pound of this new IMR something or other on the weekend to try - it's got the whizz-bang copper fouling reducer in it. While it lists suitability for .308, I've not looked up to see whether or not it is of a suitable burning rate for the M1. I grabbed it to try in .223.

I'd only shot the rifle once, when I received it, and it's been sitting in the safe until I had the itch to get it out again. There's lube where it ought to be in the receiver, but it's likely old, and I've been neglectful in replacing it. That's the first order of business. Just thought I'd get some direction here in the meantime in case I get both fresh grease AND brass in my face the next time that I take it out!
 
A properly lubed Garand in .30-06 will normally deposit ejected brass in the 1300 to 1600 area. 7.62 chambered rifles will fling the brass further and less predictably. After lubing you can remove a couple of coils from the ejector spring to tone things down somewhat.

For reloading tips check the thread below titled, "Anyone Reloading for the M14". Also google "Zediker M14 reloading" for an excellent aide memoire on reloading the 7.62 ctg for military semi-autos. You have several pounds of H4895 which is one of the recommended propellants for 7.62 loads in the Garand/M14. Not much need to look further.
 
Back
Top Bottom