Garand FTF 2nd round

R

Rotek

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Hi Folks,
Picked up a SA Garand off of the EE a while ago and have taken the rifle to range 3 times now and I am always getting the same FTF on the 2nd round.
I'm using American Eagle 150 gr FMJ.I have tried every Embloc and right from the first clip and every clip after the first round fires no problem but the second round does not feed.Work the bolt manually and every round after
feeds and ejects with out any issue.I have tried 1st round on the right.1st round on the left, It just doesnt matter.
Any advise on what the problem would be and or how to correct it would be greatly appriciated.
 
either something is binding in the oprod area or your gas system is not letting enough.... or too much gas thru. I'm no where near as schooled on the garand as i am with the m14 but the principles are the same when it comes to a short stroking issue.

perhaps one of the garand guys will chime in. I'll go check what the armourers manual says for inspections and post what i find if i find it ;)
 
Short recoil can be due to a number of problems incl;
1. loose gas plug-allows gas to escape
2. crack on interior face of gas plug-allows gas to escape
3. fouled gas plug where valve doesn't fully close-allows gas to escape
4. gas cyl excessively worn-allows gas to escape
5. gas piston undersize/worn-allows gas to escape
6. gas port in barrel obstructed-results in insufficient gas
7. binding op rod-prevents full cycling
8. op rod spring deformed or broken-prevents smooth cycling
9. follower rod deformed
10. follower arm deformed
11. undersize barrel in splined area where gas cyl surrounds gas port
12. oversize gas cyl in same area

I'd start with the gas plug, then check gas port, then check for binding op rod and defective spring. If gas plug is good, gas port is clear, and op rod fit and spring are OK, I'd try a new gas cylinder. Before doing anything make sure that grease is applied at all required lube points.
 
Hi. Did you clean it? It's a gas issue. Gas hole may be blocked or the gas tube is blocking the hole. Like purple says, the dimensions of the end of the piston or the gas cylinder itself or the barrel diameter at the splines may not be right. Piston diameter must be at least .525". The cylinder not more than .532". Barrel at the splines not less than .5995".
Clean the rifle first. Always start with the easy stuff.
Go here for a free .pdf manuals. Note the need for the provided UN & PW. Download FM-23-5 and TM-9-1275. The latter has more detail. http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/
 
FTFeed = slow or short stroking
Are you using lube on the gas piston ???
how cold is it when you are shooting
2 rounds could warm up lube and thin it out to cause no problem on 3 round
or dirty up gas system enough to pick up 3 round

Does it do every time you clean rifle?
 
Kc.338Lp said:
that doesnt make any sense , if its a gas issue wouldnt it do it every single round ? and not just the second round .
Click to expand...

Based on what I think is happening, he fires the first round no problem, and there is not enough gas to chamber the next round, and he hasn't fired off any rounds after that, so there are no "other rounds".
 
every clip after the first round fires no problem but the second round does not feed.Work the bolt manually and every round after
feeds and ejects with out any issue.
 
Kc.338Lp said:
every clip after the first round fires no problem but the second round does not feed.Work the bolt manually and every round after
feeds and ejects with out any issue.
Click to expand...

Your description of the problem isn't really that clear. Just to clarify:
when you load a full clip and fire the first round does the bolt come back far enough to strip the second round from the clip?

A test to check on full bolt retraction is to load a single round in the chamber by hand(no clip in the rifle) and then fire. If the gas system is operating correctly and there is no binding of the op rod, then the bolt should extract and eject the round with the action remaining locked to the rear after the op rod lugs have engaged the lugs on the op rod catch. A Garand should normally be loaded from the clip. When loading a single round in the chamber do not depress the follower and let the bolt close with full force. Rather, depress the follower and let the bolt ride forward about 2/3 closed with your hand on the op rod handle, then release the op rod handle and let the bolt close from spring pressure.

A check for op rod binding is to do the "tilt test". To do this remove the rifle from the stock, remove the op rod spring and the mag well components(follower arm, bullet guide, op rod catch and follower) leaving only the bolt and op rod in place. Do not remove the gas cylinder, gas cyl lock, gas plug or front handguard. Next, hold the rifle in a horizontal position and then raise and lower the receiver end to a 45 degree angle. When you do this the op rod and bolt should open and close freely from their own weight. If they do not, the op rod is binding and obstructing free bolt movement.
 
I had some crappy en-blocs that didn't work very well. They were sold as new. They looked and felt a little different than the surplus ones I have.

The old beat up ones that I got work the best for me.
 
To try to make things clear.
I load a fully loaded 8 round clip.
chamber the first round(1st round in the chamber 7 in clip)
shoot, gun goes bang.
empty case ejected but 2nd round does not feed/chamber.
manually pull back charging handle and load 2nd round.
shoot,gun goes bang.
empty case ejected 3rd round chambered.
shoot, gun goes bang.
empty case ejected 4th round chambered
shoot, gun goes bang.
gun functions properly untill clip is ejected.
load another 8 rd clip.
1 st round goes bang.
empty case ejected
2nd round does not feed/chamber.
manually work charging handle.2nd round chambers.
Gun goes bang 3rd round chambers etc.
this action repeats with every clip I have .

I hope this makes things more clear.
 
Did you get a chance to mic the button and cylinder? Sounds like not enough reward umpf to get behind the the first round stripped off the clip while its under full tension but removal of one round makes it less drag to get back far enough on subsequent shots. curious to se what a five round enbloc would do...
R


sunray said:
Hi. Did you clean it? It's a gas issue. Gas hole may be blocked or the gas tube is blocking the hole. Like purple says, the dimensions of the end of the piston or the gas cylinder itself or the barrel diameter at the splines may not be right. Piston diameter must be at least .525". The cylinder not more than .532". Barrel at the splines not less than .5995".
Clean the rifle first. Always start with the easy stuff.
Go here for a free .pdf manuals. Note the need for the provided UN & PW. Download FM-23-5 and TM-9-1275. The latter has more detail. http://www.biggerhammer.net/manuals/
Click to expand...
 
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