Garand problem

[OctaRon1]

Just got M1 Garand a couple of weeks ago, had it out with store bought rounds and it shoots no problem.
I took it out yesterday with some reloads, when you fire you hear the click and no bang and the bullet is hard to eject.
So I think I screwed up and the rounds are not sized properly.
Could it be anything else, any ideas ?
Other then this set back, I love the Garand it's a definate keeper ( for now anyway )
Have a good day guys.

 

[DANCESWITHEMPTIES]

Your reloads full length re sized? Primers on the ones that failed to fire hit hard enough? Your F.T.E. could be a dirty/ sticky chamber, a worn extractor. But if your cartridges aren't sized properly, that would be your number one problem. Don't use 180 grain bullets or heavier; avoid hot loads & your rifle should run flawlessly.

 

[OctaRon1]

I should have the primers are basicly un touched.
It is the chamber that takes 2 hands to open it after the no fire.
What is the F.T.E.

 

[Hitzy]

Fail to eject....
Sounds like they were not sized properly.

 

[Zdragunov]

Sounds like your bolt is out of battery and firing pin doesn't even get hit by the hammer.
Just like the other guys were saying sounds like the rounds are too long..

 

[Zdragunov]

Go online and read the garand reload 101.
Always full length resize, not just grands any semi auto.
Use imr4895 gun powder don't go over 168grains bullet.
Happy shooting.

 

[bigedp51]

Your resized cases are too long and did not allow the bolt to fully close and thus the "click" when you pulled the trigger, Your cartridge case shoulder needs to be .003 to .004 shorter than your chambers shoulder location for proper chambering.

You need a case gauge to measure your fired cases and then bump the shoulder of the case back the .003 to .004 to allow a proper fit. Normally when full length resizing if the die makes hard contact with the shell holder (camover) the average case will be at least .002 shorter than minimum headspace or the GO gauge. The problem with this is the shoulder of the case might be bumped back .006 to .008 which is over resizing the case and leads to case head seperations.

Bottom line, you need case gauges to check your cases and learn the proper amount of shoulder bump or how far the resizing die pushes the shoulder of the case when full length resizing.

Below is a simple Wilson Case Gauge, they are a little hard to see but there is a shallow slot cut in the top of the gauge representing minimum and maximum headspace and you set your dies with these measurements.

Below is my preference a Hornady Cartridge Case Headspace gauge that works with all caliber cartridges, below that is the RCBS Precision Mic.

Below is Innovative Technologies cartridge headspace gauge and is the most expensive but very accurate at measuring shoulder location for resizing.

Below, Redding sells a set of shell holders that are taller in .002 increments for minimum shoulder bump bump adjustments. (.001 to .002 on bolt action rifles and .003 to .004 on gas operated rifles)

Below headspace control shims which I use, these shims are placed under the lock ring of the die once it has been set up and adjusted per your die instructions.

Below is an example of case life and a full length resizing die that was adjusted to make hard contact with the shell holder without making adjustments for minimum shoulder bump to extend case life.

 

[purple]

You are only experiencing a problem with your reloads, not factory ammo, so the problem is with your reloading, and specifically case resizing. Here are a few things to pay particular attention to when reloading for a Garand;
1. Only use IMR 4064, IMR 4895, or H 4895 propellants.
2. Use bullets in the 150-168gr weight range.
3. Keep brass trimmed to below max OAL.
4. Always full length resize your brass. Do not necksize. This is a precaution against an out of battery detonation as a result of the round not being fully chambered due to either the case shoulder not being sufficiently set back or excessive radial dimension of the case .
5. Seat primers slightly below flush with the casehead. This will avoid the possibility of a slamfire as a result of the bolt face or floating firing pin impacting the primer on chambering. Primer pockets need to be scrubbed to ensure proper primer seating.
6. Ensure that bullets are seated sufficiently to ensure feeding and that they do not engage the rifling on chambering (this applies when reloading for any rifle).
7. Do not try to get more than 5 firing cycles from a case. The Garand extraction cycle is tough on brass. You will see that the extractor does a particularly good job of chewing up the case heads.

An easy way to set up your resizing die to ensure complete and easy chambering is to use the rifle itself as a gauge to determine the extent of resizing. To do this strip both the rifle and the bolt, insert the stripped bolt in the rifle, and then progressively adjust your sizing die to a point where the bolt will close fully on a resized case with no resistance. Next, turn down the die an additional quarter turn as a precaution against fouling build up in the chamber and then proceed to resize your lot of brass. Every piece of empty resized brass can then be tested for proper chambering in the stripped rifle before it is reloaded. This test assumes that all resized brass has been trimmed to below OAL.

When the bolt is stripped you should also clean all bolt components, incl the interior wells for the firing pin, ejector and extractor spring and plunger. A firing pin can be obstructed by a build up of crud in the interior of the bolt. Similarily, a build up of fouling can cause the extractor spring to seize up. Another important point is to ensure that the chamber is kept clean of fouling after firing. You can either use the brush on the Garand combination tool for this or a sufficiently long and thick commercial "bottle cleaner" type of brush with the handle bent to a 90 deg angle. The Garand combo tool will also enable you to strip/assemble the bolt.

Here are a couple of safe, functional and accurate loads which have been proven in many different Garands;
150gr Hornady FMJ or 155gr Sierra or Nosler Match bullet with 48gr of either IMR4064 or IMR4895, CCI 34, Rem or Win LR primer, COL 3.280
168 gr Hornady, Sierra, or Nosler Match bullet with either 46.5gr IMR 4064 or 46gr IMR4895, same primers as above, COL 3.330

It sounds like Mr. Garand's built in safety feature, where the receiver bridge prevents the firing pin from going forward until the bolt is fully closed, was your friend on this one.