Can any Garand guys answer a question for me? I stripped down my Garand and when I started putting it back together, I noticed that the bullet guide didn't want to go back into the receiver legs without some force. Rather than jam it in, I figured I'd post up here and ask you gentlemen, is this normal? I'm getting occasional feed issues on the 7th round out of the clip and I'm wondering if this what's causing it.
Garand question
- Thread starter NicholasN
- Start date
The bullet guide actually helps to keep the front "legs" of the receiver spread to assist functionality so some will fit tightly. Some require a bit of a tap with a hardwood block, screwdriver handle or plastic mallet in order to fully seat them in the corresponding cutouts in the receiver leg. As long as the bullet guide isn't deformed this is not a problem.
Feeding problems could be attributable to lack of lubrication or deformed or worn parts incl a binding op rod, clip, bullet guide, slide/follower, weak/broker op rod spring.
Feeding problems could be attributable to lack of lubrication or deformed or worn parts incl a binding op rod, clip, bullet guide, slide/follower, weak/broker op rod spring.
Good to know that my receiver legs aren't pooched. I appreciate the answer, although in a strange way I'm a little disappointed, since it means the cause of the issue is still unidentified. I'll have to wait and hope Hungry does a course out West some day.
For starts I'd clean and re-lube the rifle with grease on all specified lube points. You can check the op rod for binding, examine the op rod spring for correct length and wear and check the height of the bullet guide fulcrum with a mic. I'd also try using a couple of different en blocs in unworn condition.
This could also be ammo related if using handloads with insufficientky sized brass.
This could also be ammo related if using handloads with insufficientky sized brass.
Could be a timing issue.. I would check the bullet guide a little closer, the little piece that has the oprod catch riding on it, if its wore down then your rifle wont function properly.
Google is your friend, but I think it should be 0.179'' minimum. Last resort you can peen it with a hammer, but its not recommended, you can buy new ones for 17$US.
That is the first place I would start or the maybe the clip latch spring.. Gas system seems ok if it functions on the first 6 rounds..
Google is your friend, but I think it should be 0.179'' minimum. Last resort you can peen it with a hammer, but its not recommended, you can buy new ones for 17$US.
That is the first place I would start or the maybe the clip latch spring.. Gas system seems ok if it functions on the first 6 rounds..
Shouldn't require any force to reassemble an M-1 Rifle. Suspect something isn't installed correctly.
The feeding issue might be the clip itself. Try another. If it's every clip, look at the follower.
Manuals be here. Note the need for the provided UN & PW. Add the W's. Download TM-9-1275 and FM-23-5.
.biggerhammer.net/manuals/
The feeding issue might be the clip itself. Try another. If it's every clip, look at the follower.
Manuals be here. Note the need for the provided UN & PW. Add the W's. Download TM-9-1275 and FM-23-5.
.biggerhammer.net/manuals/
I've tried with a couple different makes of clip, both vintage and new manufacture and they all do it.
I've also tried the "tilt test" and am finding that the op rod and bolt move freely until I try it with the action in the stock, at with point it no longer moves on its own. Looks like I've got issues with the op rod binding. Now I'll have to figure out if it's binding on the lower band or if it's making contact with the wood.
Good thinking. I have some Lucas Oil Red 'n' Tacky #2 that I use for grease on this gun that will work great for that. I was originally thinking using kerosene soot to mark up the op-rod but the grease will be easier to apply.
A lite coat of grease on the op rod tube is the best way to check for op rod interference with the stock, stock ferrule and lower band. You will normally see some light drag marks from the tube against the front handgd liner, but this is acceptable provided there is no binding against the liner.
I did the tilt test without the stock, with only the front handguard and top handguard and there was no binding. As far as I could tell there was no contact with the liner. It looks like its the stock or the lower band that's may be making contact.
The lower band should fit tightly on the barrel. A loose fit can sometimes be corrected by swapping in a new roll pin and/or placing some aluminum foil around the barrel, seating the band, driving in the pin and trimming off the foil with an xacto knife. If the op rod makes contact with either side of the lower band you can tap the band slightly in the opposite direction. Use a hardwood block on the inside "leg" of the band and tap the block lightly with a hammer to move it slightly. Make sure that the lower band doesn't rotate too much to one side so that it forces the front handguard into contact with the shelf at the rear of the gas cylinder.
The grease ended up on the centre of the lower band, which makes sense given the bit of wear showing there. It would appear that the ferrule is causing the lower band to sit too high. I'm thinking I might try something along these lines:http://www.shotgunnews.com/guns/longguns/garand-accuracy-issues-stock-fit/
It's an aftermarket stock put on by the previous owner, so I don't have to worry about bubba-ing an original piece of wood.
EDIT: It just clicked that I've got my nomenclature mixed up. The op-rod is making contact with the stock ferrule, not the lower band. I need to lower the stock tenon to get the ferrule a touch farther from the bottom of the op-rod. There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the lower band. I'm sorry for the confusion.
Maybe just take a fine round file to the metal in the bottom of the "U" of the stock ferrule a bit by bit until it doesn't touch there any more. Then you could cold blue the filed spot or put a bit of paint or something on there to seal it up.
Ian
Ian
I thought about that , but I think I'd rather modify the aftermarket wood than a 1940's manufacture stock ferrule.
This is the preferred way of doing it. If the bottom of the ferrule still causes interference the ferrule can be removed and the wooden tenon cut down a bit and then acraglassed on the top to lower the ferrule location on the stock, but this can be a real PITA.
