Three of my Garands need new barrels. I can't decide between button rifled Criterions or cut rifled Kreiger. Would like to hear from anyone that has either of these. Is the Kreiger worth it? If I do get the Kreiger, which twist is best for what? I usually shoot 155's over 4895 at no more than 300 yds.
Garand rebarreling
- Thread starter J.P.
- Start date
Depends on what type of shooting you are planning on doing. Get a Kreiger if you plan on matching up the rifle, a complete match job should cost about $500.00 to $700.00 depending on the work that needs to be done or what parts need to be replaced. Get the Criterions for the same reason. You mught want to try a brand called Cititel. Last one we got of those was from SpringField Sporters in the states. It was $90.00 and shot fine for the average shooter.
Scott
Scott
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Are your rifles worth more rebarreled as shooters or rebarreled as originals? You might be able to find USGI barrels easier than NRA High Power type barrels in Canada. And the market is stronger for arsenal condition Garands.
Be prepared for a lot of paperwork to import barrels from the US.
Be prepared for a lot of paperwork to import barrels from the US.
My 2 original M1's shoot fantasticly, almost scary for a 50 year old service rifle.
I'm about to build a .308 with a stripped receiver and new Douglas 6 groove 1/10 twist.......it better shoot as good as the issue barrels or I will wrap it around a tree......
I'm about to build a .308 with a stripped receiver and new Douglas 6 groove 1/10 twist.......it better shoot as good as the issue barrels or I will wrap it around a tree......
OneBarfly
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
c1a1 said:
Pretty sure that Numrich's M1 barrels are made by Citadel. Perhaps not considered match grade barrels, but I think they are fine - nothing wrong with them. I have a few myself. "aacollectible" here on the board has .308 barrels available. I don't know who made these barrels, but they are good people to deal with. Chances are that they are short-chambered, all of the ones that I had were.
Hitzy - can I have your Douglas if you wrap it around a tree?
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Garand barrels
aacollectable is in Quebec, the shop is closed until next week. Has anyone used the Garand barrels he sells at $199. I'am not looking for match quality, just a decent shooter. I was also told there was a shop in Ontario,selling barrels. Any info on buying in Canada would be appreciated.
aacollectable is in Quebec, the shop is closed until next week. Has anyone used the Garand barrels he sells at $199. I'am not looking for match quality, just a decent shooter. I was also told there was a shop in Ontario,selling barrels. Any info on buying in Canada would be appreciated.
Its the exactly the same length and looks physically the same except for the
gas port surface. Its machined smooth instead of chromed. I've been into this hobby for 9 months. What do you mean by short chambered?. I can tell you a 30.06 has about 3/4 of an inch sticking out of the chamber when seated.
Hobby=$10000 in 9 months. could have gone to hawaii a few times :0
gas port surface. Its machined smooth instead of chromed. I've been into this hobby for 9 months. What do you mean by short chambered?. I can tell you a 30.06 has about 3/4 of an inch sticking out of the chamber when seated.
Hobby=$10000 in 9 months. could have gone to hawaii a few times :0
Unregistered
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- Location
- South Ontario
I think my Garand barrel needs replacing. I would be interested in either shooter or match grade. Does aacollectible only have .308 barrels? Is there a source in Canada for .30_06 barrels?
How does the Garand function with the .308 barrel anyway? Do people have problems with inserts flying out or whatever?
How does the Garand function with the .308 barrel anyway? Do people have problems with inserts flying out or whatever?
Short chambered: the chamber is not reamed to full depth. Its a bit short so that final headspacing can be done with a hand turned reamer. A .30-06 casing should stick way out of the chamber - the barrel is reamed for .308.
The insert system of converting to .308 gave recurring problems. Don't consider it. These are .308 barrels, not converted '06s. Years ago I had an M-1 rebarrelled to .308. It is an excellent shooter.
The insert system of converting to .308 gave recurring problems. Don't consider it. These are .308 barrels, not converted '06s. Years ago I had an M-1 rebarrelled to .308. It is an excellent shooter.
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I've built & then competed with many M1's rebarreled to .308.
They are just fabulous. Nothing else need be modified. Don't bother with inserts or whatever doodads are on the market. Save your money
Ensure yer #### don't fall off (on my M14 CD set).
Don't even worry about all those false rumours about the gas cylinder port being too small. I've never experienced any problems with FTE's after installing Citadel and Douglas Heavy barrels.
The only grief you can expect (be warned) is after installing a Douglas Heavy profiled (up to the front band, of course) is having to fit (hog out, using a router or stock inletting tool) the top handguard to the new fat barrel.
My last re-barrel was a Danish M1 SA Mfg'ed in 1943. I was lucky. I bought a Citadel barrel from Numrich BEFORE the US Army carried out OIF in 2003. I shoulda bought 5 of them in hindsight. The Citadel barrel held the original contour and I did not have modify the top handguard.
The previous build was a Winchester (Danish) reciever made in 1942. I screwed on a Douglas Heavy barrel. What a fzcken biatch that was to finally index. The Winchester recievers are out of spec for this kind of project. Remember that by 1943 SA had drawing revision number 17 or something like that. Winchester was still using drawing revision number 2.
I was even luckier, the Boyd's replacement coffee laminate stock was already RELIEVED for the fat profiled barrel. Life is Great !!
Your mileage may vary !!
Enjoy the addiction. Rebarelling an M1 is very similiar to to rebarreling an M14 as seen in my videos.....
Barney
They are just fabulous. Nothing else need be modified. Don't bother with inserts or whatever doodads are on the market. Save your money
Ensure yer #### don't fall off (on my M14 CD set).
Don't even worry about all those false rumours about the gas cylinder port being too small. I've never experienced any problems with FTE's after installing Citadel and Douglas Heavy barrels.
The only grief you can expect (be warned) is after installing a Douglas Heavy profiled (up to the front band, of course) is having to fit (hog out, using a router or stock inletting tool) the top handguard to the new fat barrel.
My last re-barrel was a Danish M1 SA Mfg'ed in 1943. I was lucky. I bought a Citadel barrel from Numrich BEFORE the US Army carried out OIF in 2003. I shoulda bought 5 of them in hindsight. The Citadel barrel held the original contour and I did not have modify the top handguard.
The previous build was a Winchester (Danish) reciever made in 1942. I screwed on a Douglas Heavy barrel. What a fzcken biatch that was to finally index. The Winchester recievers are out of spec for this kind of project. Remember that by 1943 SA had drawing revision number 17 or something like that. Winchester was still using drawing revision number 2.
I was even luckier, the Boyd's replacement coffee laminate stock was already RELIEVED for the fat profiled barrel. Life is Great !!
Your mileage may vary !!
Enjoy the addiction. Rebarelling an M1 is very similiar to to rebarreling an M14 as seen in my videos.....
Barney
