garand repair?

hacer2

hacer2

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calling out all garand guru or gun smiths
i am in the process of acquiring my first garand, only downfall is the receiver is cracked similar to the one in the picture below
my question is... is it fixable?
thanks




 
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I wouldn't even consider welding it. A replacement receiver would be the best solution. The gun should be priced accordingly.
 
Don't pay any money for that receiver as it is not repairable or safe. It's best use is a curiosity. You might buy the rifle as a parts kit though, price depending on condition of the other parts.
 
Quite likely caused by the bolt battering the rear of the receiver in an out of battery (bolt not fully locked) firing incident. Could also be caused by extensive firing with a weak/broken/compressed op rod spring. Max-min length for op rod springs are 20.25 - 19.5 inches.
 
What serial number range is the receiver?
Is that a cast commercial receiver?
The pic looks like the receiver is brand new.
 
Like I mentioned above I found this picture on google and is not mine but is very similar once I get mine in a few weeks I will post pictures
 
If the rifle you have coming has a similar crack, you should also order a complete spring kit from Wolf springs.

I've started doing that with most of my semi auto milsurps and the M305 clone. IMHO, the springs in the Norincos are their weakest part. They are usually to brittle.
 
The Wolf op rod springs for the Garand are extra strength and people recommend against them. Brownells sells the conventional op rod spring made by Fulton Armory. They replicate the tension of the US GI springs and are a good one.
 
There is a specification established for the op rod spring based on length of the spring and compression resistance. This is to ensure optimum functionality. A too short or weak spring will allow the bolt to batter and damage the rear of the receiver and will retard the forward action of the receiver after firing. A too strong or overly long spring will increase bolt velocity on closing and may cause the action to short cycle. There is a dimensional tolerance established for every part of this rifle to ensure correct functionality. If tolerances are below or above spec for any one part it can affect the correct interaction of the others. Extra strength or extra long op springs are a solution to a non-problem. If a spring is kinked, worn with flats or shorter than the specified length, replace it. If a spring is too long, as some commercially produced ones are, then cut it back to the max specified length.
 
I tried the Wolff Garand springs several years ago and found them too "heavy". (short stroking with appropriate commercial ammo) I sourced some new mil-spec springs for the Garand and they worked just fine.

I *am* a big fan of the Wolff auto-pistol springs.
 
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The receiver COULD be welded as there are Garands out there that were Demilled and welded back together along with hundreds if not thousands of other firearms. That said, the guy running the welder and grinder has to be better than good. It is tricky, time consuming and will drain your money fast. If nothing else, low ball your offer for the M-1 and look at it that all you need is a receiver to finish that project.
 
This receiver is cracked cannot be fired safely nor can it be repaired and made to fire safely. I would try to get my money back unless the purchase price reflected the cost of the unservicable/unsafe receiver. The remaining parts, assuming servicability, could be used to assemble a rifle on another servicable receiver.
 
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