GB Lin -Speed oil for gunstock refinishing.

It's relatively easy to make it up yourself. Look for some recipes on the internet. I made some up several years ago. It worked as well as the Lin Speed offered by GB.

GB is just boiled linseed oil mixed with petroleum thinner. Some people used to add a bit of very diluted verathane for a bit of gloss.

You can purchase a litre of boiled linseed oil and a litre of thinner for under $10 at Canadian Tire.

That's very close to what a couple of ounces in the GB glass bottles would cost. The nice thing about making it up yourself is you can decide how much time you want to take for each coat to cure.

I used to take the old GB Real Lin Speed Gunstock Finish and Care Oil and thin it down so that a bottle would end up being three bottles. Sometimes, depending on the wood's tightness of grain even four times thinner was made up.

By thinning the Linseed oil out with petroleum thinner it allows the finish to penetrate well and to dry much quicker. This can make for some very smooth and pleasant looking finishes. Especially if the wood is very heavily figured with fine grain. Really brings out the grain in lighter stocks.
 
bearhunter said:
It's relatively easy to make it up yourself. Look for some recipes on the internet. I made some up several years ago. It worked as well as the Lin Speed offered by GB.

GB is just boiled linseed oil mixed with petroleum thinner. Some people used to add a bit of very diluted verathane for a bit of gloss.

You can purchase a litre of boiled linseed oil and a litre of thinner for under $10 at Canadian Tire.

That's very close to what a couple of ounces in the GB glass bottles would cost. The nice thing about making it up yourself is you can decide how much time you want to take for each coat to cure.

I used to take the old GB Real Lin Speed Gunstock Finish and Care Oil and thin it down so that a bottle would end up being three bottles. Sometimes, depending on the wood's tightness of grain even four times thinner was made up.

By thinning the Linseed oil out with petroleum thinner it allows the finish to penetrate well and to dry much quicker. This can make for some very smooth and pleasant looking finishes. Especially if the wood is very heavily figured with fine grain. Really brings out the grain in lighter stocks.
Click to expand...

I am going to try this. Ive always liked Brownells Boiled linseed oil but hate the week cure time every coat.
 
I have used Lin-Speed since the early 70's with great results. It is not the be all to end all in gunstock finishes, but it is a good product. Unfortunately it is no longer available in Canada you have to order it in from the USA, which with the exchange on the dollar plus shipping, duties and brokerage fees makes it not worth the bother. I brought some in several years back when the dollar was good to keep my stock of finishes up. Li-Speed has changed hands over the years. I have spoke with the chap that has it now and it is a side line business for him. I have all his contact info but not at hand but if you Google it you will get the info to order some if you so wish. As you can imagine the market for little jars of gunstock finish is limited, they also market the product in larger quantities for wooden boat applications.

I would try the suggestion of making your own type of finish. There are more recipes for gunstock finishes than there are for chocolate chip cookies. I have a 2" thick book of them. Many fellas like Birchwood Casey's true Oil and available in Canada. Pure Tung Oil or polymerized tung oil available at Lee Valley Tools are also good products. Tung Oil is actually repels water and protects wood better from moisture than linseed oil. Another name for tung oil is China Wood Oil as it was used in China on boats for many years. But for the purposes of protecting your gunstock from the elements while your deer hunting there is no practical difference that your going to notice.
 
Hey Guys,
I'm new to Gunnutz but not new to guns. I have a dozen or so stock refinishes under my belt.
I was wondering if anyone knows how to get a satin finish on a stock? I've tried several recipes and made a few up but it always seems to be too glossy. How do they for instance get the dull look on those Tikkas and what not? A friend at deer camp last year handed me his pre 64, 32 win special '94. The butt stock had splintered right off from the butt plate screw hole to about 6 inches forward. I winced when I saw it. After some epoxy, stripping, sanding and staining, I tried several different mixes of thinner and oils, but all seemed too glossy. After stripping it again, I just went for the traditional tru oil and after about the fifth coat when I dulled it up with #0000 steel wool for another coat I just polished it up instead with burlap and voila it looked finished but duller and used.
Nothing looks tackier than a spankin' new shiny finsh over a bunch of old dents and dings that can't be completely removed.
I was pleasantly surprised of the outcome and my friend was over the moon.
It had zero collector value as it had been messed with anyway and now when you pick it up it feels well, just like an old girlfriend.

Gave him an FYI: don't let a rear sling stud come into contact with the lower butt plate screw.
Lever guns, who needs 'em anyway.

Anyway, who knows how to apply a satin finsh??
 
Pure Tung Oil will give you a dull/satin finish. And by pure I mean "pure" so that you could drink some and only get a little intestinal extra activity. The circa 1850 brands etc. that you get at the hardware store all have dries in them. Pure Tung is available from Lee Valley Tools. Polymerized tung will give you a high gloss.

Another way to make shiny into satin is with rotten stone.
 
Thank you mrgoat.
You're right, I tried minwax tungoil and it was glossy. Lee Valley just opened a store in Kingston so I will go back and check it out.
I'll take your word on the intestinal extra activity.
As far as rotten stone goes, I'll take your word on that as well and look it up just in case you're baiting me into asking a dumb amateurish question.

Regards,
Hog-art
 
You can use Tru-oil and when you are done use fine pumice stone powder to dull the finish to your liking. Birchwood Casey also sells a sheen remover that you can use once you are done applying Tru-oil.
 
Pumice stone, sheen remover, rotten stone, they are all a form of doing the same job. You could probably also use tooth paste, rubbing compound and polishing compound as they all have forms of mild abrasives in them.

Keep in mind when applying oil finishes that it takes at least a month or better in some cases for the finish to harden up and through. They can feel dry to the touch in 24 to 48hrs. but it has not dried through.

Hogart: No worries I don't bait people.
 
Thanks both of you.
I looked up rotten stone.
Funny how previously I looked up "satin finish" and could find nothing remotely like you have told me.
I currently have another "friend's" m700 stock, stripped on my bench awaiting rejuventating. Be nice to either get paid or work on my own stuff.
I'll try the pumice thing this time. Have an old 788, 22250(cheapest and almost embarrassingly still about the most accurate rifle I own) that I put linseed oil on about 25 years ago, still hard as nails maybe I'll give it a go.

Talk soon.

Hog-art
 
If you have the opportunity to get your hands on "Velvit oil" grab it an you'll love the finish.........
We have used a lot of different finishes but nothing is close to Velvit wood finishing oil..........
sst
 
bearhunter said:
It's relatively easy to make it up yourself. Look for some recipes on the internet. I made some up several years ago. It worked as well as the Lin Speed offered by GB.

GB is just boiled linseed oil mixed with petroleum thinner. Some people used to add a bit of very diluted verathane for a bit of gloss.

You can purchase a litre of boiled linseed oil and a litre of thinner for under $10 at Canadian Tire.

That's very close to what a couple of ounces in the GB glass bottles would cost. The nice thing about making it up yourself is you can decide how much time you want to take for each coat to cure.

I used to take the old GB Real Lin Speed Gunstock Finish and Care Oil and thin it down so that a bottle would end up being three bottles. Sometimes, depending on the wood's tightness of grain even four times thinner was made up.

By thinning the Linseed oil out with petroleum thinner it allows the finish to penetrate well and to dry much quicker. This can make for some very smooth and pleasant looking finishes. Especially if the wood is very heavily figured with fine grain. Really brings out the grain in lighter stocks.
Click to expand...

What ratio of thinner/linseed oil do you use?
 
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