Geared up to Gun Kote®

thanks. We haven't done any yet. Gotta wait till after Christmas to order the aluminum oxide. $90 a bag to get a 50lb bag shipped down from "upper Canada". :eek:
Dosing got me a couple of barrels to practice on and I want to do my m4gery in flat black.
 
I am building a Gun-Kote oven out of a double set of school lockers.

So far I have cut out the middle divider, and have re-hinged the left side door so it opens up opposite the right door.

Still have to get the insulation, heat source, and circulation fan, and find the time to finish it.

I will have enough room to bake 4 barrelled actions or 4 stocks at once.I will be able to do barrelled actions with barrels up to 36" in length.:D

I will post some pics when I get a chance.

SKBY.
 
I did Gun Koting commercially for a short time before finding domestic chores to be a little excessive. I had a local welder do up an old hydro box (double swing doors) and he put an extra wall on it with a "fire box" on the bottom. Then I heated it with a propane fired tiger torch and had a thermometer stuck into the interior of the hydro box. The intention was to have the fire box eventually converted to a propane fired and thermostat controlled heating element. But in the end, the tiger torch worked fine.
What I ended up with was a double walled hydro box (double wall of course, insulated by air )and I could fire that up in -30 degree weather outside with a tiger torch and achieve the 300 farenheit temperature needed.
just something for all to consider. It was relatively cheap.
 
If you do fiberglass stocks (which I've done) you have to maintain much lower temperature (ie 150 or 200 F) or else the 'glass will split. I've never done a wood stock and figure that the heat will not be kind to wood. Duracoat for the wood!
 
lookout..how did the gun kote turn out after baking at lower temps?
I'm planning on adding Duracoat later on if there is enough interest around here and I have the airbrush talent!
 
Well, in talking to Joe at KalGard, he says that you lengthen the time (2 or 3 hours) and the finish is "about" as durable. I can't really testify to the truth of that statement. I figure however, that fibreglass or wood stocks are by nature softer then metal and prone to denting or scratching easier because of this property. GunKote is flexible to a certain degree and "resists" denting/flaking but I don't think it will really hold up on a stock any better then say, your typical Krylon paint.
You can do it in order to better blend your colours with the metal, but I don't think that it will have any more efficacy then just spraypainting with just about anything......
 
Sounds good lookout. I don't plan on getting into painting stocks unless
A. I'm good at it
B. There is a demand for it
C. Doesn't cost a lot to gear up.
I'm doing this in my garage where my car is stored so I don't want to start spraying a bunch of stuff in there all day.
 
Well..finally got my order of aluminum oxide in..damn that stuff is expensive...
Poured it into the blasting cabinet and it was running out the bottom almost as fast. *sigh*
Apparently it is fine enough to get in the seams of the cabinet.
So..I emptied out the stuff and now I'm getting ready to run a bead of silicone on all the seams..which I thought about doing when I was assembling the cabinet and had it on the bench.
But no..I'd rather wait until it's all together and harder to get at!
 
Before
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After blasting the upper and lower.

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After gunkoting it.

m4d.jpg


m4f.jpg



m4g.jpg


m4.jpg
 
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