Get started reloading with the Lee Loader Classic.

I usually crimp into a canelure so I trim every time so the cases are all the same length.
Accuracy is largely about everything being the same from cartridge to cartridge to cartridge.
 
1873shootist said:
I noticed the pilot and cutter being used without the shell holder and anvil, but I figured that if the OP prefers to do it this way, that's up to him.

I stated the EXACT same thing on another forum.

A newcomer would figure out the shell holder was needed just from the Lee Precision packaging information anyway.

Unless they are following this guide
Gnome75 said:
The stick part that is marked 30/06 is a guide and not to be used as measure regardless of what the package may tell you.
Click to expand...

Don't know why Brother Rockeye is portraying this as a capital crime.

I'm not. I even gave your buddy props on the guide on another forum where he posted it. It's the misinformation that I have an issue with. Ever hear the handle Sunray?

Seems like an abusive overreaction on his part.

How is pointing out the dissemination of misinformation an abusive overreaction?

The OP is to be commended for taking the time and effort to photograph and produce this tutorial. It takes work and he didn't have to do it.

I agree, he did a fine job on the Loader tutorial, but diminished it with the case gauge segment.
Click to expand...

Consider that when a brand new loader ruins some brass because he/she has no idea what "overboard" is and didn't use the tool as directed because the how-to they were following told them not to...that is my only concern. The very people this guide is aimed at are the ones who won't know the difference and are most likely to be negatively affected.

Rather than a bunch of BS on 2 different firearms forums, a very minor edit of the OP would correct the issue and leave a very good guide that is safe for newbies.

For example,
Replace this;
The stick part that is marked 30/06 is a guide and not to be used as measure regardless of what the package may tell you.

With this;
This is how I use the Lee Case Length Gauge. For those with no experience in their use, follow the direction included with the tool.

Pretty simple fix imo.
 
I think, Brother Rockeye, that simply stating the correct way to use the case trimming tool with the shell holder and anvil was all that was required.

The personal comments were not.

Like I said, the OP went to a lot of time and trouble to produce a tutorial. I don't think that he deserves to be villified over an error.
 
Actually, I am sort of curious to know why the OP does not use the lock stud and shell holder. I don't really understand why he would say --

The stick part that is marked 30/06 is a guide and not to be used as measure regardless of what the package may tell you
Click to expand...

I can see a possible reason: he might be concerned that the length gauge tip might wear down and the gauge would get shorter over time. I think that Lee claims that both the guage and stud are hardened steel and are thus less prone to such wear. I've used the Lee trimmers with the lock stud chucked in a drill for power trimming for five plus years and I've not been able to measure such wear on the gauge.
 
BrotherRockeye said:
yer wasting your time trying to educate him on the proper use of the Lee case length gauge. I tried on another forum he posted this on but he would rather measure a bunch and take his chances while spreading misinformation.

Hence my popcorn response earlier in the thread.
Click to expand...

BrotherRockeye said:
The end goal may be the same, but the method you suggest creates extra steps and the possibility of a variable, namely case length, the same variable the tool was designed to eliminate.
As I stated elsewhere, how you choose to do it is up to you.
You created a decent how to on the Lee Loader, then proceed to give erroneous information regarding the use of the case length gauge.

It is BEGINNERS who will be most likely to follow your guide, the very group who won't know any better. You do a disservice to the new comers to the community by spreading misinformation.
Click to expand...

BrotherRockeye said:
Consider that when a brand new loader ruins some brass because he/she has no idea what "overboard" is and didn't use the tool as directed because the how-to they were following told them not to...that is my only concern. The very people this guide is aimed at are the ones who won't know the difference and are most likely to be negatively affected.

Rather than a bunch of BS on 2 different firearms forums, a very minor edit of the OP would correct the issue and leave a very good guide that is safe for newbies.

For example,
Replace this;
The stick part that is marked 30/06 is a guide and not to be used as measure regardless of what the package may tell you.

With this;
This is how I use the Lee Case Length Gauge. For those with no experience in their use, follow the direction included with the tool.

Pretty simple fix imo.
Click to expand...

1873shootist said:
I think, Brother Rockeye, that simply stating the correct way to use the case trimming tool with the shell holder and anvil was all that was required.

The personal comments were not.

Like I said, the OP went to a lot of time and trouble to produce a tutorial. I don't think that he deserves to be villified over an error.
Click to expand...

WTF are you talking about? There ^^^ is the content of my input in this thread, minus the popcorn on the first page and my response to you. Please point out the personal comments and vilification you are referring to.

I don't see it. What I have seen directed at me is; butt hurt, rip me, portraying this as a capital crime, abusive overreaction, personal comments and vilification...In response to my pointing out a minor error that would have easily been corrected.
You yourself just stated that he made an error. Would it not be better to simply correct that error, the same one I have been pointing out all along rather than make an uncalled for snide remark.

I notice that since you came to his rescue the OP hasn't made a peep. You two sure post in a similar fashion with the unfounded accusations..

What a waste of a coffee break...
 
BrotherRockeye said:
WTF are you talking about? There ^^^ is the content of my input in this thread, minus the popcorn on the first page and my response to you. Please point out the personal comments and vilification you are referring to.

I don't see it. What I have seen directed at me is; butt hurt, rip me, portraying this as a capital crime, abusive overreaction, personal comments and vilification...In response to my pointing out a minor error that would have easily been corrected.
You yourself just stated that he made an error. Would it not be better to simply correct that error, the same one I have been pointing out all along rather than make an uncalled for snide remark.

I notice that since you came to his rescue the OP hasn't made a peep. You two sure post in a similar fashion with the unfounded accusations..

What a waste of a coffee break...
Click to expand...

No need to have a hissy fit.
I can assure you that there is no conspiracy against you and that I am not the OP.

Chill. ;)
 
Thinking about reloading. Thanks for posting this. I have a question. What does soft seating a bullet mean in terms of reloading?
 
Good job. I quite like the Lee Loader. The Improved Loader and the Mequon Loader come with a priming tool.
 
rosebute said:
I also like the Lee loaders, but be very careful to only use only brass from your gun as it is only neck sized.
Click to expand...

This post brings back a lot of memories from the '70's when I first started reloading (yup, my handle is OldNewGuy for a reason.) Nice going, OP.

I would also note that Rosebute's post is spot-on regarding using "pick-up" brass or brass from other firearms. Yes, it'll go through the Lee Loader Whack-a-mole system, and it'll look just fine. But there is a high probability that it will either jam when working the action on your particular gun or you may have another, more serious, major malfunction. It happened to my son and I - I was showing him the basics of reloading with my old Lee Loader for .270 when he bought his first rifle, using brass from my Browning BBR in .270 Win. Despite being very careful about labeling the box as "Only for BBR" when we went to the range he picked up one of the BBR reloads in error and proceeded to try to cycle it through his .270 Win Weatherby Vanguard instead of loading his rifle with the box of factory rounds he'd bought. Darned if it didn't hang up and jam rather severely on its way into the chamber, and we were very worried about breaking the ejector on his brand-new rifle trying to back it out.

Worked out OK though, with a little persuasion. No harm/no foul. But it could have been the source of problems, and in retrospect was an excellent lesson for him to keep focused on all parts of the shooting process.

I have used the Lee Loader Classic on .270 Win, .308, 6.5X55 and 444 Marlin. With the cautionary tale above in mind, the thing works well. I still have, and occasionally use, the .270 and 444 Marlin Lee's.

Nice going, OP.

O.N.G.
 
SteelCap said:
Thinking about reloading. Thanks for posting this. I have a question. What does soft seating a bullet mean in terms of reloading?
Click to expand...

You are welcome. I hope it helps you out. Its hard to find info on the lee loader classic

I have no idea what soft seating is. Hopefully some one else can answer it for you.
 
Originally Posted by stubblejumper
One other thing to keep in mind, is that after neck sizing for a few firings, the cases may need to be FL sized, which you need a real press and proper dies for.
Click to expand...

The Lee hand held press is one step up, is dirt cheap, and takes the regular 7/8" screw in dies and can fl size just about any cartridge.
It is also much quieter (no pounding) than the pedestrian Lee Loader and if you're an apartment dweller and want to reload while watching the late late show on tv you won't wake your neighbor.
I also add a flash hole trimmer and small electronic scale to the kit and use the closest Lee dipper to 'throw' an approximate charge and a trickle charger to top it off to the correct weight.
A copper or nylon bore brush mounted on a drill does a good of inside cleaning the case and I clean the outside with copper scrub pad during the case trim process when the case is still in the Lee case trimmer holder attached to the electric drill.
 
Started on the Lee Classic Loader; it's a gateway setup. Had aspirations of saving money by reloading and quickly saw the potential accuracy-gains and never looked back. Bought a single stage so I could reload any time of night (no banging) and all has been well for around 2yrs of loading. Fun setup to start on; I still have mine.
 
Thanks for the post OP.

Here is a good video as well to go hand in hand with your experience.


5 years old and watched over 3,000,000 times.
 
Gnome75 said:
You are correct. You probably won't have to trim after one or two fires. Checking periodically will be fine.
Click to expand...

I find it’s just as easy to toss them straight on the drill and give a spin on the cutter, if it don’t cut they didn’t need it lol. Seems faster than measuring and then maybe cutting if necessary. Plus I hit them with some ultra fine scotch brite too and make em shiny.
 
OldNewGuy said:
This post brings back a lot of memories from the '70's when I first started reloading (yup, my handle is OldNewGuy for a reason.) Nice going, OP.

I would also note that Rosebute's post is spot-on regarding using "pick-up" brass or brass from other firearms. Yes, it'll go through the Lee Loader Whack-a-mole system, and it'll look just fine. But there is a high probability that it will either jam when working the action on your particular gun or you may have another, more serious, major malfunction. It happened to my son and I - I was showing him the basics of reloading with my old Lee Loader for .270 when he bought his first rifle, using brass from my Browning BBR in .270 Win. Despite being very careful about labeling the box as "Only for BBR" when we went to the range he picked up one of the BBR reloads in error and proceeded to try to cycle it through his .270 Win Weatherby Vanguard instead of loading his rifle with the box of factory rounds he'd bought. Darned if it didn't hang up and jam rather severely on its way into the chamber, and we were very worried about breaking the ejector on his brand-new rifle trying to back it out.

Worked out OK though, with a little persuasion. No harm/no foul. But it could have been the source of problems, and in retrospect was an excellent lesson for him to keep focused on all parts of the shooting process.

I have used the Lee Loader Classic on .270 Win, .308, 6.5X55 and 444 Marlin. With the cautionary tale above in mind, the thing works well. I still have, and occasionally use, the .270 and 444 Marlin Lee's.

Nice going, OP.

O.N.G.
Click to expand...

My post was because of the same issue. I loaded a case fired from my previous 30-06, & it jammed almost into the chamber but i couldnt close the bolt & the tore the rim off trying to eject it. Some painful persuasion from the palm of my hand & a small wooden block finally chambered it. I still like lee loaders, but i ordered a hand press & dies later that day.
 
The criticism of the OPs explanation of the use of the cutter without the shell holder proffered by commenting members is a valid one that can easily be corrected.
It's a technical criticism and not a personal one.

I personally run the cases through the trimming process omitting the measuring.
As I crimp into a bullet cannelure in my 45-70 load the cases have to be not just less than the maximum length but the same length.
 
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