Getting a 2-5lbs trigger on Cooey 64b ?

Icefire

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I just bought a Cooey 64B and it must have a 10-15lbs trigger, if not more...
I can put the trigger on my finger and rest it like that muzzle down and need a REALLY good push down to brake.

The rifle weight about 5lbs so it's sure more than 2-3 time that.

Any way to bring it down?
 
This was the fist rifle my parents bought me when I was 13yrs. One day I decided do my own trigger job and proceeded to hack away with a file. Then I let my stepfather try shooting my new Cooey after my trigger job. The gun when full auto on him. I got grounded for a month and lost my rifle for six months. So.... polish the trigger & bolt connection, don't remove any metal unless there are some severe burse.

The 64b is the same as the Lakefield & Savage 64s series, so I'm sure some of the US rimfire sites will have some detailed trigger job info. If in doubt, take to a quailified gunsmith to do the work.
 
Well the problem with that trigger group is there is just a 3 pivot point with a linkage... I need to pull the trigger pretty hard on the trigger to have the Yoke move forward grabbing the Sear by the under notch so it could move down a little to release the hammer.

The only way I see it, is to move the pivot point of the Trigger 1/4inch down and/or play with the angle of the sear/hammer contact point....

trigger.jpg
 
savage112 said:
Why don't you just leave the d**n thing alone and shoot it the way it is. The Cooey 64 is not exactly a precision instrument.It was never designed to have trigger adjustment done to it.

Where's the fun in that?

The 64B's can be quite accurate. mine shoots as well as my 10/22 did. A good trigger is nice on any gun.
 
savage112 said:
Why don't you just leave the d**n thing alone and shoot it the way it is. The Cooey 64 is not exactly a precision instrument.It was never designed to have trigger adjustment done to it.

Well just make a trip in Quebec and come try to shoot the damn thing...
I could go to CT and buy a fish scale just to have an approximation of the weight of the trigger but it's probably more than 15lbs... How can you shoot accuratly (~1-2inch group) with that unless in a padded vise.
I don't want to have an 8once trigger, but something nice.

I could easily modify it to have a light trigger, but I suspect it would go full auto ;)
Basicly I think I just need to play with the angle of the hammer.. now it's at 90 degree with the sear grabbing it at 90 degree too.

I could try a 45 degree with a shoulder (for the sear to lock the hammer back) and could always try a "parabolic" round edge...

Anyone experienced something similar?

trigger2.jpg
 
Take it and shim the back end of trigger group down a little. Undo the rearmost screw of the trigger group and shim it a little at a time (may have to take it on and off a few times) and she will improve a little. The result is a crisper trigger. Did this to mine and noticed a little difference. I will try and find the link later as I am off to work right now.
 
I have found that as with most triggers is that as they pivot on one pin the sear travels in an arc, and most sears have to increase the distance from the pivit to the sear release point.
I hope this makes sence, if you study the mechanics of the movement you will see what I mean.
I did a 64B and a Winchester 490 and managed to get a 4 pound pull with a good let off by slightly changing the angle of the sear and polish it up as well as adding a shim in the trigger bracket where the rear tang of the sear rests to reduce the engagment depth. It is hard to explain without pictures and arrows. if you look at icefire's post above you can see the parts. You must procede slowly and a little at a time to get the result you are looking for.
Another spot to look at is where the link bar contacts the sear. it shold be rounded off to reduce friction.
I hope this helps, and yes with right ammo they are very accurate.
 
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