Getting into reloading .30 military rifles

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I would like to get into reloading .30_06 for my M1, as well as maybe 7.5X55mm Swiss. I know very little about reloading, just what I've read on CGN and Surplusrifle.com. I have been advised that the best thing to do right now would be to buy a good reloading book to learn about the fundamentals and intricacies.

Can you reccommend any good reloading books? Also, I hear it is a good idea to wait until someone is selling off some reloading equipment real cheap because they don't want it anymore. I am also willing to reload in old military calibres such as .303, 7.62X54, and even 6.5X55mm though it is not a .30. I also have a .308. So if you've got something good but you can't use it anymore and want to ditch it, please let me know.

I see for example an "electronic powder trickler" whatever that is for 1/2 off
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53821

and a bunch of reloading dies at $20 in what I want
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=48231
(would this be a good place to start?)

I am in no hurry so I am willing to buy one part at a time. Is there any calibre that is particularly easy to reload? I hear about all sorts of problems with .303, for example, while .308 might be easier. I am interested in creating light, accurate loads for my military rifles that are about 7.62X39 in power. My intention is to have fun shooting these old military rifles without putting additional strain on them.

BTW I keep reading about how weak the Swedish 1896 is supposed to be. I'm assuming that it's weak for larger cartridges if you want to modify it, but it should be good with the original ammo. Commercial 6.5X55 mm is loaded down for these rifles, right?
 
It would be a good idea to purchase several reloading manuals. These manuals are published by both bullet and powder manufacturers. The reason you want more than one is that they come to their loading data from different perspectives. As an example manual A might have maximum loads listed to a certain velocity, where as manual B has loads listed to a maximum charge weight. It is often useful get check loads from more than one source when you are looking for a starting point.

Also, there maybe something special about one manufacturers bullet which requires different powder charges than what might be considered normal for a given bullet weight. This can be due to the length of a bullet's bearing surface, or due to the construction or material of the bullet.

All of the manuals have sections on how to reload. I think the Lyman, Sierra and Hornady manuals are a good place to start, then later you could add Hogdon, Barnes, Nosler, and Speer. Ken Waters book Pet Loads is an excellent resource, as is the A-Square loading manual. Many of the manuals show reduced loads with their data. All of these books hold a wealth of information.

The Swedish M-96 is said not to be quite as strong as the M-38, however any load which duplicates the pressure of the standard 6.5X55 military load will work fine in a M-96 rifle which is in good condition.
 
You also have to be a bit more careful when you are loading for a gas operated semi auto like the M-1. It is recommended that the cases be full -length sized (and in some rifles small base dies are required) and that only medium burn rate powders and 150-168 grain bullets. COL is also important.

There are many article floating around on loading for the m-1 and it would be adviseable to check them out.

Picking up used equipment is a good way to start out economically. Basic single stage press, powder scale, case trimmer, calipers, dies can all be found in the for sale ads on this site. Older loading manuals are good for reference, but you should always make sure you have one or two that are current--recommended loads change over time due to changes in the powders and bullets.

Good luck on your new hobby.

44Bore
 
Here's how I would do it. These things would last you a lifetime of reloading YMMV

1. At least two Reloading manuals (not guiides or "how to" publications) Lyman, Speer, Hornady, etc.
2. Dies (Hornady, RCBS, Lyman, Lee - in that order unless you can find cheap Redding dies) Carbide if reloading for pistol. Don't forget spare shell holders and decapping pins
3. Weigh Scale (RCBS 505, Lyman something similar)
3. Case lube kit/pad: RCBS
4. Single stage press: Rock chucker if you can find one cheap, or lyman turret
5. Hand primer tool (not nesessary, but you will find that it's better and will speed you up in the long run)
6. Powder measure: RCBS, Hornady. This will speed you right a long and is worth every penny
7. Calipers for measuring case length
8. Trimmer tool : Cheap lee cutter and a power drill work best
9. Chamfering tool
10. Vibratory Case clearner.
Lastly of course, reloading supplies: Bullets, brass, power & primers.
Nice little add-ons but not nesessary: Cripping dies for semi-auto centerfire cartridges

Cheers and good luck. Until you go "Progresive", this is all that you should ever need....
 
Go buy a copy of 'The ABC's of Reloading'.
Loading for an M-1 is no big deal. Full length resizing is required in any semi-auto for reliable feeding. Use 150 to 180 grain bullets(165 grain bullets seem to give the best accuracy though), either IMR4895 or IMR4064 powder and regular large rifle primers. Make sure the cases are all the same length when you do the first loads too.
"...willing to buy one part at a time..." Don't. It'll cost you more in the long run. Have a look at an RCBS Beginner's kit. Gives you everything you'll need less dies and shell holder.
And don't hesitate to ask any questions you may have.
 
Barfly's list is good,though I may quibble about some of his selections.

First manual should be a Lymans #48,I found the Lee manual a good counter balance.

The Lee Aniversary kit at Higginson's is a great deal <$150
 
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