Getting started for .303

I will be reloading IVI Military brass. I've already got the "whack 'em" reloading kit, but I will also get a press setup as well and try both, and stick with what works best for me - push come shove, I can always pack the Lee Loader kit in my gear if I plan to be out for a month or more, and it'll give me the ability to reload wherever I am.

I ordered the zip trim as recommended, but I found what looks like a good price on a Herters U-3 press on the EE - it looks like it gets pretty high marks, so I'll probably just start with that and add the appropriate die kit.

Really appreciate all the input being tossed in,
 
The Lee Loader setup is way more portable than a press- another benefit. You could reload at your range if you wanted.

The Zip Trim is fine but I would find that the cases would fall out of the shellholder sometimes, esp. when your cutting
surfaces dull on the hand cutter and you have to use more pressure. Plus- it has to be mounted to something to be used
whereas the 3 Jaw Chuck/spinner stud in a cordless drill is faster and portable. You can trim cases in front of the TV.
 
Dies: is the Lee Pacesetter die set suitable for my needs? There is a bleeding ton of stuff out there, and while I work with tools for a living, I know me: reading about them, etc is great, but I'm not really going to learn too much until I can get some stuff in my hands and see how it works. So, I'm just trying to order everything I need arounf the same time so it can arrive and I can start learning.

Pacesetter, RGB, Limited production... Lee makes many different die sets all in the same caliber, so I just want to make sure I'm getting the right set the first time.
 
I was told that the Lee press is inappropriate for large rifle calibers. This guy told me to buy the RCBS Rock Chucker kit instead of the Lee kit. I want to reload .303 and 8mm Mauser. He said that the Lee press was good for pistol calibers... Was he right? What do you guys think?
 
I was told that the Lee press is inappropriate for large rifle calibers. This guy told me to buy the RCBS Rock Chucker kit instead of the Lee kit. I want to reload .303 and 8mm Mauser. He said that the Lee press was good for pistol calibers... Was he right? What do you guys think?

Lee turret press or single stange?

I reload 303,45-70 on my lee 50th no problem but thats single stage press.
 
Dies: is the Lee Pacesetter die set suitable for my needs? There is a bleeding ton of stuff out there, and while I work with tools for a living, I know me: reading about them, etc is great, but I'm not really going to learn too much until I can get some stuff in my hands and see how it works. So, I'm just trying to order everything I need arounf the same time so it can arrive and I can start learning.

Pacesetter, RGB, Limited production... Lee makes many different die sets all in the same caliber, so I just want to make sure I'm getting the right set the first time.

I have several lee .303 die sets. If you're just messing around at the range the RGB set will do but you have to buy a shellholder. If you're hunting and need a crimp then I'd say go with the pace setter set as it includes the factory crimp die which is harder on the brass but puts a nice crimp on the round. If you are like me and you shoot a lot and you want the best brass life and accuracy possible then buy the deluxe set which comes with a FL die, as well as the neck sizing die. With that kit you will have to keep your brass separate for ever gun but you don't have to lube the brass so it goes a lot quicker.

I like my lee dies, I own 5 sets now and I reload at least 100 rifle rounds a week with them, I've had one decapping pin break due to me being a ham fist and over tightening the decapping pin in the die. Other then that for the money in my opinion you can beat lee die sets!! Not yo mention they come with a shell holder and the scoop which does work with the powders specified in the lee reloading book.
 
I was told that the Lee press is inappropriate for large rifle calibers. This guy told me to buy the RCBS Rock Chucker kit instead of the Lee kit. I want to reload .303 and 8mm Mauser. He said that the Lee press was good for pistol calibers... Was he right? What do you guys think?

I reload 8x57 Mauser and .303 on my lee classic cast turret press, never had a problem. So many guys told me to buy the RCBS kit which was $899, I went with my lee classic turret press kit for $299 and have been loading ever since. No problems, and I only reload rifle rounds on the press.

But I think the regular lee turret press won't index with a rifle round in it. So those guys were right, if you're going with a lee turret get the classic cast one, it's way sturdier for loading rifle rounds.
 
Lee turret press or single stange?

I reload 303,45-70 on my lee 50th no problem but thats single stage press.

I don't know, I probably confused the two... So you say that there is no problem with the single stage press?

The Lee 50th anniversary kit includes the Breech Lock Challenger Press. Is that press made of cast iron?
 
If you are like me and you shoot a lot and you want the best brass life and accuracy possible then buy the deluxe set which comes with a FL die, as well as the neck sizing die. With that kit you will have to keep your brass separate for ever gun but you don't have to lube the brass so it goes a lot quicker.

Ok, I'm lost again. When I look at the Pacesetter kit, and the Deluxe kit, I cannot identify a difference other than the Deluxe kit is extra $, and comes in a yellow box instead of a red one... I'm happy to take the recommendation, but what is the difference?

Pacesetter set, $35:
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Deluxe set, $42:
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I have no intention of buying either set from eBay, it's just where google was pulling images from.
 
Deluxe kit has neck size die, fl size die, and seating die

Stanard kit has fl size die, seating die and crimp die.

I would go with the deluxe as it comes with neck size die, you can use seating die to apply crimp.
 
For the couple extra bucks go with the deluxe (yellow box) set. As stated above it has both full length and neck sizing dies. Not to mention it has the dead length seating which makes the OAL of the cartridge bang on. I measured the OAL of 50 cartridges that I loaded the other night and I think 1 was .0005 longer then the rest.

Also neck sizing is the way to go, it's SO much fast to neck size vs full length sizing.
 
Before you put a single round of .303 down range BUY a broken case extractor for your .303. Probably the most important piece of equipment that you will ever purchase for your .303.
 
Before you put a single round of .303 down range BUY a broken case extractor for your .303. Probably the most important piece of equipment that you will ever purchase for your .303.

I reloaded my first 303 and shot them on sunday, the first round (imperial brass) had case head sep. This was once fired brass that was not shot in my rifle so i FL sized.

I was lucky that the rest of the case came out with a small screwdriver i had with me, but i will be getting a broken case extractor.

The rest (9 rounds) had no issues but i will be neck sizing all my fired brass.

The FL sizing of the brass that is not shot in my rifle will be sized just enough to close the bolt with pressure, the ones i fired on sunday where sized according to the lee doc that came with the dies but i think this is to much as they all closed bolt with out any effort.

The load i used was 34gr of H4895.
 
Whereabouts would one find a broken case extractor? Never heard of such a thing. Are they fairly common? I have a few .303s I load for; no problems yet (knock on wood) but I do keep a pretty close eye on my brass. I have definitely heard about problems with springy SMLE actions and stretchy cases. I have neck-sized since day one so I hope this bought me a little more life from the cases.
 
I literally shoot hundreds of .303 rounds a month, most if my brass has been FL sized 10x and necksized at least that many. I just went into the basement to count and I've had 6 case head separations in a bazillion rounds. I keep the head separated brass for the sake of keeping track.

They key is not to load the crap out of your rounds, keep them on the lighter side of things.
If you have an Enfield with a sloppy chamber use "Ed's famous o ring trick" then neck size only after that.

And keep an eye on your brass and look for signs of casehead separation. I've still yet to have a full head separation but I have had 6 that cracked about 1/2 way around. Those were all old imperial brass that I bought at a gun show, they were probably loaded many times before I got my hands on them. They were all shot in a no1 with a very oversized chamber and were FL sized many times.

I really see no need for the broken shell extractor if you keep an eye on your brass and you're not trying to make a magnum out if a .303. That's just my opinion though.
 
FWIW, I always buy the Deluxe die set and right away add the factory crimp die. I once bought a collect die set only, meaning no FL sizing, and I later ended up buying an RGB set just to get the FL die (you do end up having to bump the shoulders back a little at some point). It is so much fun having a set of dies I can load, say .308 Win neck sized only with no crimp for my Winchester M70 Featherweight; then with the same set load .308 Win rounds, full body sized and factory crimped to shoot in my M305. Both loads give me sub MOA groups. What else can I ask for?

Also, when I started reloading I got both Dillon and RCBS dies, which have always done an OK job. However, I've always preferred Lee dies for my needs. I prefer the way they work and the way they're finished, compared to RCBS or Dillon. Plus, I've always been able to reload more accurate ammo with them. And last, but not least, they are the least expensive ones of all. :)
 
For 303 I like the hornady 312 dia round nose
I load 39 gr of H335, use magnum primer

Another load I use is with Speer 180gr hot-cor round nose
With 35.5gr of H322 std large rifle primer

Super accurate and great hunting loads

Also I use 45.5gr of IMR4350 with the hornady round nose
174 gr, and use a magnum primer
 
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