Getting started with aperture sights for rimfire:

@Biologist. Very good shooting. at 50 meters these groups are fantastic.
You probably want to challenge yourself at 100 meter to next level.
The other day I did 100 meter, 5 shots group at about 1.5"-ish. Not too bad but not good enough either.

As for targets, I found home printouts using ISSF standard is good enough. I follow the rule of 8-MOA, and scale it according to the distance I want to. For example 50 meter standard target has black ring of 4.19", and then I print it out at 200% to get 100 meter target. It's not perfect but close enough, and saves me lots $$$.

By the way, do you see an eye shield for rear sight necessary? I found myself squinting non-aiming eye a lot to the point where my aiming eye gets strained and blurred. I want to see if a simple eyeshield will help.
 
@JQIAN I can speak for benchrest shooting, but for sporting rifle I’ve found the use of an iris mounted blinder an absolute game changer. Way easier to see a perfect sight picture. No strain.
 
@JQIAN I can speak for benchrest shooting, but for sporting rifle I’ve found the use of an iris mounted blinder an absolute game changer. Way easier to see a perfect sight picture. No strain.

yeah, that sounds about right. I shoot everything, including iron sight or red dot on pistol, and scope on rifles, with both my eyes open. But going to this iris aperture I found it's very difficult with both eyes open so I have to squint my left eye. I am going to order a eyeshield for sure.
 
Try shooting or just sighting it with a ball cap on, and slip a business card under the ballcap so to cover your non shooting eye. Then keep both eyes open for when you shoot. You’ll see what I mean….
 
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Don’t consider an Eagle Eye or a Diopter to be cheating, they are most helpful at keeping OLD EYES in the game. Remember, it’s a SHOOTING contest, not a SEEING contest.
 
Don’t consider an Eagle Eye or a Diopter to be cheating, they are most helpful at keeping OLD EYES in the game. Remember, it’s a SHOOTING contest, not a SEEING contest.

anyone can answer a question regarding eagle eye, I am getting lots of contradicting response and I don't know if I should buy one to try it out or if it will even fit.
1. What diopter means in this eagle eye set. For example, I saw one says 0.75 diopter, what does it translate to in magnification because I saw another one just saying 1.5X magnification.
2. Should the eagle eye sit between the target and front aperture so that only target is enlarged, or between front aperture and rear aperture so that both target and front aperture are enlarged?

Especially regarding 2, I have a front iris aperture so I cannot fit in anything else behind the front sight without an adapter or some sort.
 
Thanks for the kind words!

RE 100m: Yes I am definitely going to make a standard 100m target. I found the NRA rules and target spec's for 100 yards rimfire, which is an 8 inch black aiming bull and rings based on inch increments, easy to make on computer. The SFC target store shows a 100m centerfire target, but I cannot find the specs for it.

RE eye strain and blinder: So far I am OK without the blinder. For several years benchrest shooting I have been training myself to keep both eyes open to be able to see the flags with my left eye, and sometimes shutting my left eye just for the final trigger pull.

My last session on the bench with the aperture sights was a long one, and I did get some eye strain. When aiming with face on the stock, one method I find to relieve it is to open up both eyes and just sit for a while, or look down onto the bench with both eyes open, relax, and then back onto the sight, making sure the rifle does not move on the bags. This is easy for benchrest since the rifle is fully supported on the bags. I can imagine for the positional shooting disciplines it is impossible to look away, and then to keep the rifle on target when using only muscles and bone to hold the rifle, which results in more time necessary for re-aiming the rifle, and probably more eye strain.

When I get off the bench and practice the positional shooting disciplines, I am going to find out how my ageing eyes do.
 
Thanks for the kind words!

RE 100m: Yes I am definitely going to make a standard 100m target. I found the NRA rules and target spec's for 100 yards rimfire, which is an 8 inch black aiming bull and rings based on inch increments, easy to make on computer. The SFC target store shows a 100m centerfire target, but I cannot find the specs for it.

RE eye strain and blinder: So far I am OK without the blinder. For several years benchrest shooting I have been training myself to keep both eyes open to be able to see the flags with my left eye, and sometimes shutting my left eye just for the final trigger pull.

My last session on the bench with the aperture sights was a long one, and I did get some eye strain. When aiming with face on the stock, one method I find to relieve it is to open up both eyes and just sit for a while, or look down onto the bench with both eyes open, relax, and then back onto the sight, making sure the rifle does not move on the bags. This is easy for benchrest since the rifle is fully supported on the bags. I can imagine for the positional shooting disciplines it is impossible to look away, and then to keep the rifle on target when using only muscles and bone to hold the rifle, which results in more time necessary for re-aiming the rifle, and probably more eye strain.

When I get off the bench and practice the positional shooting disciplines, I am going to find out how my ageing eyes do.

I am not 100% benchrest shooting so to speak. The rifle is supported by a bipod at forend and the stock is sitting on a rearbag. Usually I squeeze the rear bag to get the position I want. So after every shot the rifle moves, I need to re-position the rifle, find the optimal position of my cheek and eye relative to the sight. So I don't have a luxury of leaving the rifle there while resting my eyes, I have to constantly keep looking the sight and the target.
It's not too bad for my aiming eye anyway. My left eye is not completely shut, but just squinted enough so that the right eye can look through the rear aperture and focus on front sight. Nevertheless, after a prolonged shooting period, my right eye starts to get blur.
I ordered a simple eye shield to attach to rear iris, let's see how it will go.

by the way, Brad from Nordic persuaded me not to buy an eagle eye because he insisted that diopter should sit between front iris and rear sight. The front iris vario I have now makes this kind of setting impossible. I still have some doubt whether it's true though. But anyway, I am moving to indoor range soon which only has 25 meters, I guess I do not need front sight diopter for a while at least.
 
Selecting Inserts...

Hi,

I have been doing this by trial and error, but I have also been looking to find a manual/instructions on how and why to select various inserts.

What is everyone's experience? How do you guys pick them?

Thanks!
 
Hi,

I have been doing this by trial and error, but I have also been looking to find a manual/instructions on how and why to select various inserts.

What is everyone's experience? How do you guys pick them?

Thanks!

generally speaking, the bare minimum is the rear aperture (usually 1.1mm) and front sight (usually 22mm with 5mm aperture, or 18mm with 4mm aperture).
Then you can start going crazy like rear iris (iris means the aperture can change size), front iris, polarization, colour filters/inserts, etc. The #1 post by Biologist has a good start with what to buy.
you can go crazy by looking at this 200-page long product catalog and spend a fortune on things. https://www.ladomino.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/MEC_CATALOGO_2019.pdf

In terms of manual/instructions, I found http://www.triplej.com.au/pdfpages/Aperture.pdf summarized it pretty well.
 
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generally speaking, the bare minimum is the rear aperture (usually 1.1mm) and front sight (usually 22mm with 5mm aperture, or 18mm with 4mm aperture).
Then you can start going crazy like rear iris (iris means the aperture can change size), front iris, polarization, colour filters/inserts, etc. The #1 post by Biologist has a good start with what to buy.
you can go crazy by looking at this 200-page long product catalog and spend a fortune on things. https://www.ladomino.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/MEC_CATALOGO_2019.pdf

In terms of manual/instructions, I found http://www.triplej.com.au/pdfpages/Aperture.pdf summarized it pretty well.

Thanks for the links! Not all that interested in high-tech stuff; I have a very old Brno #4.
 
How easy is it to put a set of aperture sights on a normal rifle like a tikka t1x? Is it pretty straight forward? The rear should be easy on dovetail right? What about front?

The way I did it wasn't easy, but it's do-able. If you can find the right size bloop tube to go over the barrel it'd be a lot easier.

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php/2008343-tikka-t1x-peep-sights

I don't like the look of a bloop tube, so I went this way.
I've since removed the front sight and gone back to a scope, it wasn't hard to remove the thread protector even with Loctite holding it in place. A little bit of heat from a heat gun and it released.

There's a slightly more detailed description of the job on Rimfire Central.
 
I added a major piece to rear sight to replace the iris aperture.
It's the combination of iris, color filters and diopter.
Especially diopter makes a big difference. It's -4 to +4 with 1.5X magnification maximum. Ideally 0.0X magnification would be compliant but it's too expensive so I live with 1.5X. The result is a huge difference. I can see the front sight and iris crystally clear now.
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Nice! I have not seen that device in my research. What brand and model is that combo iris/filter/diopter magnifier, and where did you purchase it from?
 
I got the AHG rear sight benchrest extender rail/riser (purchased from Nordic Marksman), for my Anschutz 1907. This allows the rear sight to be moved back for comfortable benchrest style shooting, without having to crane my head and neck forward.

Here it is on the 54 action, with the front all the way up to the load/ejection port. Rail extender is 20cm long.


Rear_Sight_Rail_Extender.jpg

The rear sight is now slid back to about where I like it. After some more shooting to confirm, I may take a Dremel and cut off an inch or more off the extender rail so it lies under the rear aperture out of the way.

The masking tape is a temporary solution to prevent scratching my eyeglasses. Due to the offset of the eyeglasses lens from my brow, I have to get really close to the aperture and sometimes hit it with my glasses. I have potential solution to this using a liquid rubber solution for lightly coating the edges of the aperture edge to eliminate that issue. Once I trim excess on the extender rail and sand off the burr, that rail edge will be out of the way.

View of the front sight, now fully outfitted with bubble level and the iris.

Front_Sight_Oblique.jpg

The rear sight rail extender comes with the front rail riser so as to make the front and rear proportionally level with each other. The rail risers required an elevation change of 7 clicks up for a total of 14mm up at 50m. Windage was unaffected other than one click either side which might have been the wind, which speaks to the impressive precision manufacturing on these rail risers and the rifle's dovetails.

Front sight view.

Front_Sight_Iris.jpg

Man do I love that front iris with its thick black ring and horizontal bar. I am not able to align the thin little leveling sticks that come as part of the globe, because of how the iris threads on and tightens. (The globe can rotate 360 to any orientation). I guess one is supposed to pop those sticks out if an iris is used (?), but I am going to leave them in. Being thinner than the iris' thick black bar, my brain does not notice them - they are essentially invisible. And the bubble level on top is the prime indicator for me to control cant.

Today I shot three targets, 10-shot groups each, from the bench with front BR rest and rear rabbit ear bag. Ammo was SK Rifle Match ("Red"). Wind for most of the session was nil, flags were still, and it started to pick up on the last target.
Scores are approximate since the 10-shot groups shredded the paper.

Target 1, iris 4.0: I am fairly sure that one crazy flier into the 7 ring was a bad round, but of course I will never know for sure. It could have been a rogue breeze, but not likely since wind was really dead early this morning. My lot of SK RF seems to have 1 or 2 crazy fliers per 50-rd box.
Group = 1.219" (without that one flier it was 0.575")
Score = 96-6X

Target_1.jpg

Target 2, iris 3.6: The group started high and right for some strange reason. (The rising sun was heating the air rapidly, from below freezing to well above freezing during this session, so maybe it was air density change and thermals coming off the ground). I had to click one down and two left. Two left was too far as can be seen by that left 9 ring shot. I clicked back right one and it centered the rest.
Group = 0.889"
Score = 95-4X

Target_2.jpg

Target 3: Those three high left shots were my mistake because the wind did come up and I forgot to notice the flags. I clicked one right and I forget if I clicked down one, but anyways the next 7 rounds centered nicely. Never forget to watch those flags!
Group = 0.684"
Score = 97-5X


Target_3.jpg

Overall I was happy with those results. I will report back on where I finally decide to trim that rear rail extender.

I promise I will get off the bench soon and try some unsupported positional shooting. (Benchrest is just so relaxing, its hard to leave the bench! :) ).
 

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Nice! I have not seen that device in my research. What brand and model is that combo iris/filter/diopter magnifier, and where did you purchase it from?

I got the iris/color filters/diopter combination from cibles targets. They have an eBay store and father and son run the business. Super nice people, I talked to son couple of times (father doesn’t speak English too much).
The brand is Gehmann made in Germany, compatible with all Anschutz rear sight.

I also ordered the rail like yours from Nordic, it hasn’t arrived yet. I used the extension tube first but I found the iris aperture shows vignette effect. Basically the aperture sits too far away from the rear sight house that when it’s open bigger I can see the dark shadow from the side. The lesson learned is that when extending the aperture to rearward it’s better to move the whole sight. That’s why I ordered rail.
But I think it will be too long for me too. I will have to mount it to cover the ejection port. Do you experience any ejecting issue like this way?
 
The extension rail is very solid, I think you will like it.

But I do not think ejection will work covering the port, and I would suspect that would hamper your ability to single load. Rimfire ammo acts funny sometimes, and sometimes flips inside the port. Sometimes it pops straight up, sometimes it ejects laterally like it should. Many times my Anschutz flips the case and it stays in the port, and I have to fish it out with fingers. Probably that's me working the bolt slower to eject the empty case into a little container I place on the bench. If I work the bolt just right I score a container dunk with each case. But a fast bolt working with authority would likely clear the port most of the time. And each rifle can be different too, even the same model.

If its mounted behind the port, I think it is fairly easy to shorten to length to fit your needs. Hack saw or Dremel should do it. There will be burrs to file out and sand out, but not a big deal.

I tested a burr potential problem by sliding the rear sight on from the front of the extender rail over the tightening screws and grips. It sticks a bit there, but loosen up the screws enough and wiggle it and it slides over. So even if you muck up the end by causing burrs that are difficult to remove, you have the front end to use no problem.

I found the screws and grips and micro springs in mine were a little dry and needed a blast of Ballistol to loosen them up. After that they worked smoothly.
 
I will definitely have to cut the rail short I think because I have that iris/diopter combo which is about 1.5” inch longer than you rear aperture, and my rear part of the action behind the ejection port is shorter than yours.

That means I will have to mount the rear sight more forward on the rail to get the aperture positioned properly, therefore the rail will stick out more. I don’t have a saw or dremel accessible to me now, I need to figure it out over the weekend.

I hope I can get away without cutting the rail, if I can find stock extension and a cheek riser.
 
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