Getting The Lead Out - Part Deux - Post 32

oldrodder said:
I shoot a lot of lead bullets out of my 94 and Savage 340. I use the Lyman 31141 (now called 311041) with GC. I cast them out of COWW, powder coat every lead bullet I shoot and still lube them. Never a leading problem. I also use lead bullets in my 38-55's, 40-60 Maynard, 40-65 Win, 40-70 Sharps Straight, 6 45-70's, 45-90 & 50-70. I use the same protocol in all these calibers and NO leading, EVER!
Try powder coating, you'll like it!
PS: Be sure to clean your rifle after shooting jacketed because lead just loves sticking to copper!
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I tried the cast stuff to try to bring cost down. But plated bullets are just as cheap or cheaper when buying.
I use to cast buckshot and slugs years ago. But now my spare time is spend shooting/hunting/fishing.

I would like to revisit the cast in my 30/30 but just with the stuff I already have.
If I was into CAS and was slinging a lot more lead I would consider things differently. For the guns I have that can use lead it’s less then 1000rnds a year. My other guns are just not lead friendly speeds and to drop the speeds would loose the point of the cartridge.
 
Reeferman said:
If you can find real brass wool it’s even better. I had some but can’t seem to find the real stuff anymore.
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Some Dollar Stores still carry it but it costs more than a Dollar.

Comes in packs of 8 x 1 inch diameter rolls appx 1.5 inches long.

Good stuff, I use it for polishing brass as well.
 
Reeferman said:
Tried that once and it ended up being a brass coated steel chicom crap. Haven’t for a couple years. I only get what I can check with a magnet.
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Found this on Amazon:
HOMAX PRODUCTS 123100 Bronze Fine Wool Pad, 3-Pack.

Came up when I typed in "Brass Wool" in the search bar. Says "Material Bronze" in the description. Is this what you are looking for?
 
I use lead remover cloth, the Birchwood casey brand. It works OK, that is about 5 time as good as a bronze brush or brass wool. Steel wool also works OK. I ruined a bore with wipeouts"leadout" it is advertised to dissolve lead which it might do a bit but don't try any improvement on their system or you will dissolve your bore before the lead.
 
I also have proshot lead remover. It's also a liquid that you apply to your bore with a patch. As far as I can tell, it does nothing that other solvents won't do, which is basically nothing as far as lead goes.
 
porpoise said:
I use lead remover cloth, the Birchwood casey brand. It works OK, that is about 5 time as good as a bronze brush or brass wool. Steel wool also works OK. I ruined a bore with wipeouts"leadout" it is advertised to dissolve lead which it might do a bit but don't try any improvement on their system or you will dissolve your bore before the lead.
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Wipe Out Lead Out has some very specific instructions for use. I use it when I need a quick fix and as the instructions state, DON'T LEAVE IT IN THE BORE.

You don't mention what "improvements" you made to the LEAD OUT. Might be your own fault???
 
bearhunter said:
Wipe Out Lead Out has some very specific instructions for use. I use it when I need a quick fix and as the instructions state, DON'T LEAVE IT IN THE BORE.

You don't mention what "improvements" you made to the LEAD OUT. Might be your own fault???
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I had tried sea foam down my bore just for the hell of it between applications of leadout, which didn't seem to be really doing anything. I didn't clean out the seafoam before my next leadout application. Boy did the reddish brown stuff ever start coming out then. I was concerned so went on cgn asking if anyone had experienced this reddish brown stuff, it was not the pink stuff that wipout says should appear. A helpful cgn'r said it was lead acetate.so I continued this regimen and got a lot of brown out until I realized it can't be all lead. I am red green colorblind but can sort of see the colors in my own way although someone else would probably realize it was rust. I have used the leadout carefully on other guns since with no damage but it just doesn't seem to work I go back to the cloth which seems to work a lot better than jb bore paste. Not sure why the bore paste is not so good it works great on carbon. So I have quit using the leadout it makes me nervous and doesn't work well
 
Well, if it makes you feel any better, a lot of us on this site have experimented with all sorts of things, firearms related and the results haven't always been positive.
 
How does that saying go?

You must learn from the mistakes of others. You will never live long enough to make them all yourself.

I think that is it.
 
Moving on to a Smith & Wesson model 17, 22LR. I couldn't believe the amount of lead that came out of the barrel when I push a brand new bore brush through a couple of times :sok2.

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Most of that was in the first couple of inches of the barrel. So after the barrel cleaning (so I thought) I moved on to the cylinder. The lead/carbon ring was a b!tch to remove (again so I thought). Currently happy with the state of cleanliness of the revolver, I fired a few rounds to sight in a newly installed red dot sight. Then I did a quick cleaning to the revolver when I got home. I wanted it pristine for the upcoming speed steel match. So after I did the cleaning and thought everything looked good. I tried out J-B Bore Paste on the chambers and got a surprise.

After coating the chambers with Kroil, I applied some J-B paste to a Tipton Speed Swab and pushed back & forth a few times in one chamber. The swab came out grey/black. This is from a chamber I thought looked clean.

New swab, nice & white.

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Applied J-B Bore Paste (Green)

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Swab after 4-5 passes in one chamber

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After cleaning all six chambers I moved on to the barrel and got the same result. I thought the barrel looked clean but I was proven wrong again. I've heard about J-B Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound long before now but felt I never really needed it (until now). I like to keep my guns clean but I don't really enjoy cleaning guns. I'll rather be shooting. If I was a wealthy guy, maybe I would just hire someone to do the cleaning for me but alas, I'm not wealthy. But I did learn something about what is clean and what is not.
 
J.b. borepaste will always blacken as you work it. Did you use it till it didnt blacken? I have got my firearms clean with it but the last jb treatment was always still black
 
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I followed the instructions. Finished up using Kroil and then patched dry. A bright light and a magnifying glass and the chambers look really nice to me. So going back to the paste, its always going to come out black even in a "clean" chamber? If there is no lead, carbon or powder residue left, what is turning the paste black?
 
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Chemical reaction to metal like the barrel. There was a man from Nantucket who cleaned till he could shoot shot loads from a once rifled barrel. So I use brass pot scrubber pads around a brush then a bore cleaner liquid. Then stop before I do damage.
 
VICIOUS said:
Chemical reaction to metal like the barrel. There was a man from Nantucket who cleaned till he could shoot shot loads from a once rifled barrel. So I use brass pot scrubber pads around a brush then a bore cleaner liquid. Then stop before I do damage.
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What I heard about a man from Nantucket had nothing to do with cleaning firearms, lol!

Getting back to the J-B paste, I certainly didn't over do it. I followed the provided instructions and the whole process took a few minutes from start to finish.
 
porpoise said:
The lead cleaning cloth also turns black all the time and i found on lead it works better than jb bore paste
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I know about the cloth turning black, even in a clean barrel. That was earlier in this thread. Unfortunately the cloth cannot be used on a blued gun, stainless steel or nickel only. Hence the move to J-B. According to one post, the J-B paste will also turn dark/black even in a clean gun. I'll have to conduct a little experiment when I have the time.
 
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