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In another thread I mentioned that the accuracy of the Girsan (and Beretta) could be improved with the use of a barrel bushing. I would agree that the shooting accuracy is reasonably good, but just like the Beretta Combat, using some device to tighten up the barrel does have the potential to bring the accuracy above the design criteria. Usually the barrel comes back to the same spot in the slide and accuracy is more shooter dependent, but any movement will cause wider groupings. There are conical bushings that require the barrels to be turned and for a ramp to be bevelled in the slide to accept the bushing, but that design is way above what I was willing to spend. A much simpler approach uses a stainless steel barrel bushing to accomplish a similar result. The bushing can be fastened with solder, or special epoxy. I can tell you that the barrel/slide fitting is very tight compared to without it in place. I will be installing it soon after ensuring the fit. It looks like I will have to alter it slightly to allow for the barrel to be removed/inserted. The other option is to opt for no barrel removal and clean it with a pull-through and only remove it for major repairs. I would rather be able to pull the barrel at any time.
If anyone else is looking for this part, just search out Beretta barrel bushings on eBay. $13 plus shipping.
The bushing fits perfectly, but it is too tight to get the barrel out.
This bushing should work perfectly for the Compact (4.3") model. If my 4.9" barrel was just 1/4" shorter (not protruding so much out of the slide), it would clear the breech. So what to do? One solution would to cut or grind a portion of the bushing. In a perfect world, a similar bushing, but easily removed (flanged or with threads) would be available; but the latter would require more work threading the slide. Right now I am just trying to determine where to make the relief cut on the bushing. I am not going to grinding a relief in the barrel.
OK, It took a while to do, but I had to grind and file an ellipse on an angle into the bushing to be able to get the barrel to go into the slide. It just makes it past step in the slide. It still has full contact around the bore. Here are the cuts. I will be epoxying it in tonight. I will use the ultra fine paper to make it look pretty after I know I have no more fitting to do.
Time to finish this off. I did epoxy the bushing into the slide. It did improve the accuracy however, it only stayed attached for 30 rounds and then separated. With about 1/3rd of the flange ground off, there isn't much holding it on, especially for a bond to smooth stainless steel. I blame myself for it not holding as I did not want to roughen up my slide in the event this was a bust. The residual epoxy in the barrel does provide some support for the barrel, but not as much as the bushing did - maybe this is a path to consider. If I proceed further, which I probably won't, I would solder the bushing in place. If I do solder it in, I will update this thread. As I said earlier, this is probably a better product for the shorter barrel, regular steel pistol.
It's a neat experiment but IMO anyway if it needed a barrel bushing it would have been designed with one. I have modified my Girsan with a tungsten carbide guide rod that I machined and hand polished for a nice tight fit. It's a bit heavy but the recoil is practically non existent now. I think if you could bore out and thread the slide and get a threaded bushing you would probably have more success. Something to look into anyway.
damn it sucks having bad eyes. haha
