glass bedding
- Thread starter bruno
- Start date
I would like to see a few pictures as well, I finally talked myself into doing my first bedding job on my new savage. I picked up the acraglass gell kit and I am trying to read up as much as I can before I attempt it.
thanks in advance for any pictures or tips, especially savage related.
thanks in advance for any pictures or tips, especially savage related.
604shooter
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Neither here nor there.
Last edited:
Larry in VA
New member
- Location
- Stafford, Virgina USA
Here you go bruno:
Here you go Bruno.
These web sites were very helpful to me when I did my first bedding job about a 2 years ago. Have done seven now and like doing bedding jobs now almost as much as pulling triggers.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
http://www.probed2000.com/download.htm
http://www.benchrest.com/FAQ/4.2.shtml
Good Luck, Larry
Here you go Bruno.
These web sites were very helpful to me when I did my first bedding job about a 2 years ago. Have done seven now and like doing bedding jobs now almost as much as pulling triggers.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
http://www.probed2000.com/download.htm
http://www.benchrest.com/FAQ/4.2.shtml
Good Luck, Larry
thanks guys those are some really good articles. I am thinking about maybe bedding my stock tupperware savage stock for practice before I do the final job on my bell and carlson stock... just to be safe.
I will have to check my acraglass gel kit to make sure there is enough to do both.
hopefully the maiden voyage goes well!
I will have to check my acraglass gel kit to make sure there is enough to do both.
hopefully the maiden voyage goes well!
Larry in VA
New member
- Location
- Stafford, Virgina USA
"Devcon 10110 Plastic Steel"
When you get in the market for some more "mud" try "Devcon 10110 Plastic Steel".
Far better than Acraglass of any type IMHO. .. It is available in Canada.
Larry
When you get in the market for some more "mud" try "Devcon 10110 Plastic Steel".
Far better than Acraglass of any type IMHO. .. It is available in Canada.
Larry
I have bedded quite a few rifles over the years. Here are some tips.
Practice on some clunkers, first. I bedded all my cheap 22 rifles for practice.
Use lots of mold release. You can wipe the metal with floor wax. I used to use Pam, but they changed the formulation and it no longer works. Any industrial supply shop sells spray cans of silicon mold release. This works well.
I bed with Devcon F aluminum putty. Devcon is sold by the pound, so you get more for the dollar by buying aluminum than with steel. Both do a good job and as stiffer putty, they are easier to work with than Acra Glass. To make a good bedding compound, it must have minimum shrink when it sets. I prefer Devcon Aluminum F putty or Bisonite.
Remember to spray the action bolts before installing them.
Use a chisel or Dremel to remove about 1/10 of an inch of stock material to make room for the putty. Leave a ridge near the front and rear action screws to locate the action to the original position. You don’t want the action to tilt or sit higher.
Make sure you remove stock material from the rear side of the recoil lug position so the bedding compound will support the rear of the recoil lug.
I use a worm of plastercine to make a dam in the channel to stop the goop from flowing forward. On the action, I use the plastercine to plug holes and channels I don’t want plugged with goop.
I use masking tape to protect the top edges of the stock from goop they may overflow.
When you assemble the rifle into the bedding compound, do not over tighten the bedding screws. You don’t want to flex the action and mold the bedding to the flex. Tighten in small steps until you feel the action bottom on the little pads of original bedding you left in the stock.
When you put the rifle down to let the putty set, put it down horizontal, without the barrel touching anything. I pull a drawer out on my shop filing cabinet, and lay the rifle across the drawer edges.
The big challenge is getting the action screws out the first time, after the bedding sets. I bed the rifle after dinner and then back the screws out a full turn before going to bed. It would be best to change the rifle over to Allan head screws for more torque to unscrew.
If the action does not want to easily pull out of the bedding, don’t use too much force. The stock can break. Put the rifle in a chest freezer for a day or two, then pry it out by pulling down on the forend. The deep cold and metal contraction makes it much easier to pop out.
A good bedding job will improve accuracy and make for a more stable zero.
Practice on some clunkers, first. I bedded all my cheap 22 rifles for practice.
Use lots of mold release. You can wipe the metal with floor wax. I used to use Pam, but they changed the formulation and it no longer works. Any industrial supply shop sells spray cans of silicon mold release. This works well.
I bed with Devcon F aluminum putty. Devcon is sold by the pound, so you get more for the dollar by buying aluminum than with steel. Both do a good job and as stiffer putty, they are easier to work with than Acra Glass. To make a good bedding compound, it must have minimum shrink when it sets. I prefer Devcon Aluminum F putty or Bisonite.
Remember to spray the action bolts before installing them.
Use a chisel or Dremel to remove about 1/10 of an inch of stock material to make room for the putty. Leave a ridge near the front and rear action screws to locate the action to the original position. You don’t want the action to tilt or sit higher.
Make sure you remove stock material from the rear side of the recoil lug position so the bedding compound will support the rear of the recoil lug.
I use a worm of plastercine to make a dam in the channel to stop the goop from flowing forward. On the action, I use the plastercine to plug holes and channels I don’t want plugged with goop.
I use masking tape to protect the top edges of the stock from goop they may overflow.
When you assemble the rifle into the bedding compound, do not over tighten the bedding screws. You don’t want to flex the action and mold the bedding to the flex. Tighten in small steps until you feel the action bottom on the little pads of original bedding you left in the stock.
When you put the rifle down to let the putty set, put it down horizontal, without the barrel touching anything. I pull a drawer out on my shop filing cabinet, and lay the rifle across the drawer edges.
The big challenge is getting the action screws out the first time, after the bedding sets. I bed the rifle after dinner and then back the screws out a full turn before going to bed. It would be best to change the rifle over to Allan head screws for more torque to unscrew.
If the action does not want to easily pull out of the bedding, don’t use too much force. The stock can break. Put the rifle in a chest freezer for a day or two, then pry it out by pulling down on the forend. The deep cold and metal contraction makes it much easier to pop out.
A good bedding job will improve accuracy and make for a more stable zero.
fishlonely
Member
- Location
- RH, GTA, ON
Mark.
