If I pull straight back on the trigger, you hear the firing pin release but the cartridge fails to fire, but on inspection it has been hit by the firing pin. If I apply slight pressure to the left as I squeese the trigger then there is no problem. the cartridge fires each time. I have cleaned this firearm thoroughly, I've lubricated properly but back on the range the next time I encounter the same problem. If you take the bullet that failed to fire and put it back in the clip and apply pressure to the trigger from the side, it will fire. Does anyone have any idea why this is happening and what ideas for correction. Thanks
Glock 10 mm FTF problems
- Thread starter 41 Mag
- Start date
I've seen a few guns doing somethign like this, but to a much lesser extent.
The firing pin safety is not disengaging sufficiently, so the striker bonks into it on the way, losing speed and thereby causing the light strikes.
The firing pin safety is not disengaging sufficiently, so the striker bonks into it on the way, losing speed and thereby causing the light strikes.
Glock 20
LAPD had the same problem with some 21's. When Glock looked into it, they found there was a mold for the 20 and 21 where the tolerance was slightly out in frame to slide fit. The firing pin safety is not being pushed far enough out of the way to function properly. Contact Glock, they have a serial number range to look at, you may have one.
LAPD had the same problem with some 21's. When Glock looked into it, they found there was a mold for the 20 and 21 where the tolerance was slightly out in frame to slide fit. The firing pin safety is not being pushed far enough out of the way to function properly. Contact Glock, they have a serial number range to look at, you may have one.
If you're still having te problem, then I think it's one of only a couple of things:
1) The trigger bar is out of spec. If it's got a bit of extra bend somplace, or somebody did a "$.25 trigger job" too vigorously, the thing ont he top that hits the firing pin safety might not stick out far enough. If this is it, a Glock factory armorer can replace your trigger bar. Caution: the trigger assy is a $16 part, retail. Don't let them charge you more than that! The work is worth approximately $20.
2) Fouled firing pin/firing pin safety slot. Get a 22 cal PLASTIC BRISTLE bore brush, and wrap a patch around the tip, to cover the metal. Use this to dig around insude the notch for the extractor, firing pin channel, and the hole for the firing pin safety. Get that crap outta there!
#2 seems to have worked on my gun. I started getting one FTF every 500 rounds about a month and a half ago, and had a total of about 8 malfs.
1) The trigger bar is out of spec. If it's got a bit of extra bend somplace, or somebody did a "$.25 trigger job" too vigorously, the thing ont he top that hits the firing pin safety might not stick out far enough. If this is it, a Glock factory armorer can replace your trigger bar. Caution: the trigger assy is a $16 part, retail. Don't let them charge you more than that! The work is worth approximately $20.
2) Fouled firing pin/firing pin safety slot. Get a 22 cal PLASTIC BRISTLE bore brush, and wrap a patch around the tip, to cover the metal. Use this to dig around insude the notch for the extractor, firing pin channel, and the hole for the firing pin safety. Get that crap outta there!
#2 seems to have worked on my gun. I started getting one FTF every 500 rounds about a month and a half ago, and had a total of about 8 malfs.
