Glock 17 Gen 2 firing on reset after changing trigger housing/ejector

rugbydave

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My Glock 17 G2 was having some ejection issues shooting (stovepipes) shooting steel cased ammo and had always exhibited a tendency to eject back at my face on occasion even when using regular (Blazer and others) brass cased ammo. I did some googling and realized that I was well past due replacing both the recoil spring and the ejector. So I replaced both. When I function test the pistol, it fires on both the trigger pull and the reset whereas if I swap the old trigger housing back in, the problem goes away. Is the problem a slightly out of spec trigger housing? FWIW I believe I'm running a lighter connector (bought the pistol from a buddy a few years back) and the sear engagement is much better with the old housing than the new one? On the bright side I can strip my Glock pretty fast now, haha.
 
I’m a Glock armorer an just reading what you’ve posted I would suggest installing a Glock OEM connector an anything else that was replaced. You should consider replacing the plunger spring too. How many rds has gone through it. As for BTF it’s one of two things, either your grip an or the ejector.
 
I'd estimate the round count at about 5k+ Is there a reason that the lighter connector (it's an OEM 3.5lbs connector from a G34 or 35) would work fine with the old trigger housing but not the new one? What does replacing the plunger spring do and is there a list of stuff I should replace at this round count (I just replaced recoil spring and wanted to replace ejector as well)?

As for BTF, I'm pretty confident my grip is ok although my main reason for wanting to replace the ejector is the stovepipes.
 
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As a range toy I wouldn’t of even changed the RSA. The ejectors on the Gen2’s were know for BTF. I’m not at my work bench to give you the replacement ejector if you choose the change it. An a OEM 3.5 connector if anything depending on what trigger spring you’re using will only change the trigger pull. I’ll look an see if you do in fact have the compatible trigger housing for a Gen 2 installed. Do you have a two pin frame or a three pin frame.
 
As a range toy I wouldn’t of even changed the RSA. The ejectors on the Gen2’s were know for BTF. I’m not at my work bench to give you the replacement ejector if you choose the change it. An a OEM 3.5 connector if anything depending on what trigger spring you’re using will only change the trigger pull. I’ll look an see if you do in fact have the compatible trigger housing for a Gen 2 installed. Do you have a two pin frame or a three pin frame.

It's a 2 pin frame. The trigger housing I swapped in (for a G3 which I thought was the same as G2?) looks identical to the original and has the same marking on the plastic (2) and on the ejector (336) although the new ejector is a slightly different profile.
 
As a range toy I wouldn’t of even changed the RSA. The ejectors on the Gen2’s were know for BTF. I’m not at my work bench to give you the replacement ejector if you choose the change it. An a OEM 3.5 connector if anything depending on what trigger spring you’re using will only change the trigger pull. I’ll look an see if you do in fact have the compatible trigger housing for a Gen 2 installed. Do you have a two pin frame or a three pin frame.

Glock OEM negative connector produces 4.5lbs trigger press & somehow over the years it magically became 3.5lbs trigger press :redface:

gadget
 
Does the angle of the connector change with each housing? It should "lean out" at the top so contact with the trigger bar is maintained. If it's not a bent/bad connector check the trigger bar/striker engagement (is it slipping off?). You can slightly bend the tab on the cruciform to achieve better engagement.
 
Does the angle of the connector change with each housing? It should "lean out" at the top so contact with the trigger bar is maintained. If it's not a bent/bad connector check the trigger bar/striker engagement (is it slipping off?). You can slightly bend the tab on the cruciform to achieve better engagement.

I thought about bending the tab on the cruciform but I guess I'm hesitant to screw with things considering that it works fine in the old housing. I wonder if it's possible to remove the ejector from the housing and swap them around?
 
Yes, the ejector can be swapped if you choose not to diagnose the problem.
 
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I had a similar issue on a gen 1 but I went back to the old ejector/sub frame. It was unnerving to say the least. There must’ve some odd difference in geometry that fires the striker on the return stroke of the trigger
 
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