Glock 22 Trouble

Rob W

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Hey guys,

I was out at the range today and had a malfunction with my G22 40cal. I got about 25 rounds out of it and then it stopped firing. Safetied the gun, then tried to take it apart to see what was going on. Couldn't take it apart as you need to release the firing pin (pull trigger) in order to get the slide off. Pulling on the trigger isn't releasing the firing pin, so I can't get the damn thing apart. Any suggestions on what to do here? I don't want to take it to a gunsmith if I can avoid it. Advice/suggestions would be appreciated. Cheers,

Rob
 
Hi Rob
Try this
Take the safety off
Hold the slide near the rear sight firmly with your left hand.
With your right hand give a couple of good solid hits with your palm ,on the
back of the handgrip closer to the top the better. Hope this helps
Greg
 
TDC said:
Can you still cycle the action? Is there a spent casing still in the chamber? Who's ammo? How old/how many rounds through your gun?

TDC

TDC,

I can still cycle the action, the chamber is empty, and I was shooting high quality reloads sold by one of the range masters at the local rod and gun club. Purchased my gun used, so I'm not sure how many rounds it had through it before it came my way - it's an ex service pistol. So far I've put a couple hundred rounds through it.
 
fisherking said:
Hi Rob
Try this
Take the safety off
Hold the slide near the rear sight firmly with your left hand.
With your right hand give a couple of good solid hits with your palm ,on the
back of the handgrip closer to the top the better. Hope this helps
Greg
Fisherking,

Thanks for the advice, Glocks don't have a manual safety....it's all internal. I tried to "discipline" my pistol as you suggested, but it didn't respond to the spanking....thanks anyways.

Rob
 
This is a long shot--does the trigger still move or is it stuck? I was wondering if it could be a problem with the trigger-mounted safety.
 
put it in the oven and turn it on to 495 for two hours. That should allow most of the frame to run away from the slide, allowing you to take it apart and find the problem......no, don't thank me, glad to help:wave:
 
If you can't get the pistol to "fire" so you can disassemble it, you may need to strip the slide while it's still on the frame, just to take it apart. MAKE SURE the pistol is empty, then lock the slide back. From the bottom, you should be able to see the firing-pin sleeve at the rear of the slide. Press that forward so you can take the back cover off, and take out the firing-pin and extractor plunger, then the slide should be able to run off the front of the frame when you pull the slide lock down. It's possible that your trigger-return spring is broken, so you're likely going to need an armourer to take a look at it anyway.
 
SDC said:
If you can't get the pistol to "fire" so you can disassemble it, you may need to strip the slide while it's still on the frame, just to take it apart. MAKE SURE the pistol is empty, then lock the slide back. From the bottom, you should be able to see the firing-pin sleeve at the rear of the slide. Press that forward so you can take the back cover off, and take out the firing-pin and extractor plunger, then the slide should be able to run off the front of the frame when you pull the slide lock down. It's possible that your trigger-return spring is broken, so you're likely going to need an armourer to take a look at it anyway.

I've personally seen a [2nd gen] G22 malfunction where the metal trigger bar had broken right along where it forms the 'cruciform'. Pistol exhibited similar symptoms as described in this thread. In that case the entire trigger bar assembly had to be replaced. Was a 10 min job for an armourer with a Glock parts box. Pistol had to be disassembled as described above as it would not take-down in the usual manner.

I asked quite a few Glock armourers about that one & also posted on Glock Talk about it. This was about 3 years ago. Never did get any feedback that anyone had seen a Glock trigger bar break like that before that point. Havent' heard of one since, either.
 
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Thanks all for the advice. SDC - you da man. I was able to take the slide off as per your instructions. Stripped the upper down and couldn't find anything wrong. Put it back together and still didn't work. Took it apart again and this time pulled the whole damn thing apart. Still didn't find anything really obvious to my eyes, but when I put it together again it dry fired just fine. Ran a bunch of snap caps through it and no issues. Now I just need to take it out and range test it. IF this happens again I'll probably just buy a new trigger assembly and replace the guts of the lower. The parts are cheap enough that one can afford to experiment a bit. Once again - Thanks!

Rob
 
I would do the same too. I know my Glock like the back of my hand, any work to the niternal parts that removes metal or changes angles can pretty much cause that.
since you bought it used, you would probably need to replace some of the guts.
Enjoy the Glock, it is a great gun.
Yesterday I took apart my 1911 to do some detail cleaning and remebered how much I like my Glock!
 
Glad to hear it worked out for you Rob; if you were anywhere near me, I'd be happy to look at it for you, since diagnosing what's happening over the internet is no better with guns than it is with liver cancer.
It's odd that you mention a broken trigger-bar, NAA; one of the local clubs has a "loaner" Glock that's had plenty of rounds through it and the same thing happened to IT. I can't understand why, since that part isn't really under any sort of heavy stress (maybe some improper heat treatment?). At least it's a $10 fix on a Glock, instead of a couple of hundred dollars or weeks in the shop.
 
If the trigger refused to reset after each shot yet the pistol cycled manually it may be an issue with lubrication(small drop) where the connector meets with the rest of the trigger mech. I had this issue on the range about a year ago with my gen 1 g17 where the trigger refused to reset after random shots and then it did not reset at all. After doing a complete disassembly/reassembly with different parts the issue continued. I then looked at the Glock armourer manual on biggerhammer.net and found that the issue was a lack of adequate lubrication on the connector area in the trigger mech. After placing the 1 small drop of oil as listed in the manual it worked fine and has ever since.
 
SLANTO said:
If the trigger refused to reset after each shot yet the pistol cycled manually it may be an issue with lubrication(small drop) where the connector meets with the rest of the trigger mech. I had this issue on the range about a year ago with my gen 1 g17 where the trigger refused to reset after random shots and then it did not reset at all. After doing a complete disassembly/reassembly with different parts the issue continued. I then looked at the Glock armourer manual on biggerhammer.net and found that the issue was a lack of adequate lubrication on the connector area in the trigger mech. After placing the 1 small drop of oil as listed in the manual it worked fine and has ever since.
A gen 1 g17 you say? Ummm.... even though it's worked fine for you ever since, your Glock is obviously ruined beyond repair. Luckily for you I'm an eccentric collector so I'll give you a $100 for it. ;) :D

Seriously though, if I ever come across a dirt cheap Gen1 G17, I'm going to have to buy it just so I have one from each generation. :rockOn:

Way to help a fellow gunnut SDC! I'm glad it all worked out for you Rob W.
 
Me too - now I can afford to spend more money on ammo. I'd rather perforate paper than pay to have my gun fixed. Cheers

Rob
 
Take a look at the trigger reset spring....they go down alot and is a common failure on Glocks that have been fired alot. When it is acting up on you shake the pistol, if you can hear something rattling in behind the trigger that is probably the culprit. Mine has gone down a couple times.....works periodically and then goes down again. Its' a quick fix.
 
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