Glue for stock repair

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I'm trying to repair a wood stock that a previous owner ripped the sling swivels out of. I have three holes to fix one one the fore end and two at the butt. I reamed the holes out to 1/4" (Could not get away with less). My question is about glue to use. I plan on putting the studs back in where they belong so I will be drilling and screwing new ones in over top the old holes. I have Accuglass and 24h epoxy but I'm worried they dry too stiff to get the studs back in. I thought about using common wood glue but I'm not sure that will hold up long term. What do you guys recommend?
 
I have used regular carpenters wood glue and urethane (gorilla) glue, both will work.
People poopoo on carpenters glue but the wood around it will fail before the glue joint.
I heavily modified a .308 stock several years ago and shot the hell out of it with no issues using only carpenters glue.
My only issue with acyglass or epoxy is they tend to leave a heavy glue line which is difficult to hide.
 
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Are you planning on filling the holes with the glue or setting plugs in them? If you're setting plugs carpenters glue will suffice just make sure your plugs are cut so the grain direction matches the stock. End grain does not hold screws well.
If you're planning on filling the holes use an epoxy based material, regular wood fillers won't be able to hold screws properly either. Another technique to consider when using epoxy fillers is to drill small holes outward at an angle from the bottom of your 1/4" hole (1/16, 1/32) to give the filler more bite.
Another option to consider is using Gorilla glue for your plugs, it has a proven track record in resin saturated woods just follow the instructions carefully.
Good luck.
 
carpenter glue won't hold a plug that's not dovetail anchored and it's not fully weather resistant.

I'm not a fan of gorilla glue for these purposes as, while it is strong, it can be brittle when fully cured and expands while curing so gets messy. Its not UV stable either.

I'd use either JB Weld if colour isn't an issue or you can tint bedding compound to match if it is... that stuff sticks to damn near anything;)
 
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I'm fitting dowel into the holes otherwise it would be too much glue for my liking. I have tried gorilla glue for other stuff and I'm not a big fan, it dose work but its messy and a pain to clean up. I should mention this is 7mm Rem Mag so she has a bit of recoil and anything that can shake loose will.
 
If you are concerned about regular carpenter's glue not being waterproof enough, you could get some Titebond III, which is waterproof and available at places like Lee Valley, or specialty builder's stores. Even Titebond II is fairly good, unless you plan on leaving it at the bottom of a river.
I also second what BernDawg said about grain direction...cut your plugs from the same species, and make sure the grain runs in the same direction as the stock. That way it can all shrink and swell as a unit, as internal moisture levels change over time.
If you are then intending to glue the swivel studs as well as screw them in, then I would use something like the gorilla glue or pl premium that will stick to both the wood and the metal.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
D
 
For the rear stud, I would take some knurled 1/4" brass shafting and tap the inside for the machine screw type swivel studs and glue the brass insert in with acraglas. For the front, i would counterbore the hole in the barrel channel and machine a T-nut to fit and glue it in. Fill the third unused hole with a tapered wood dowel using titebond 2.
 
Don't use dowel but cut your own wood plugs for the reason Berndawg already stated. End grain does not hold a screw well, a plug cutter is pretty inexpensive and will allow you to cut a plug closely matching the grain of your stock.
 
For the rear stud, I would take some knurled 1/4" brass shafting and tap the inside for the machine screw type swivel studs and glue the brass insert in with acraglas. For the front, i would counterbore the hole in the barrel channel and machine a T-nut to fit and glue it in. Fill the third unused hole with a tapered wood dowel using titebond 2.
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I was playing with that idea. Thanks for all the advice guys
 
Well I thought double gun had such a good idea I would see if anything actually existed before I spent a bunch of time trying to make something. Brownells has exactly what you described. 5/16 outside diameter brass inserts designed to be epoxied in and threaded sling studs come with them. I think they are going to work well now I just need to clean some of the dings out of the stock and give her a new finish.
 
Use regular epoxy to fill screw holes. No bits of wood required, but you can use saw dust as a filler. Like BernDawg says, wood glue won't hold new screws.
 
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