gluing front site on ?

burnt_servo

burnt_servo

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anyone glue a front sight on instead of soldering it ?

working on my 9.3x62 ( husky 1600 action ) .

I trimmed the barrel back and recrowned it removing the front sight in the process .
I never reinstalled the site because I didn't want to mess up the original bluing on the barrel .

I have had really great success with 3m's panelbond in nonstandard application's , but with a barrel t would be experiencing some intense vibration , flexing and recoil , even if for a micro second .


my second thought is to install a couple small dovetails n the barrel and the sight and fill it with panelbond . doing this and the sight would no longer rely totally on the adhesion of the glue to the barrel , now if total adhesion is lost the structure is within the dovetails forming a mechanical lock.
anyone have any thoughts ?
 
Prep the area under the sight and glue it on..... let us know how it works out.

You can wrap some electrical tape as a security blanket just in case it lets go so you don't lose it.... :)

If it doesn't come off after a year of use you could remove the tape.
 
i would think done properly it would never come loose. panel bond holds cars together and only extreme heat with a torch causes it to break its bond.
 
For a glued surface I'd simply roughen the area up a little with a small grinding point in a Dremel or other rotarly tool. You don't need to remove much, just give it a coarse finish sort of look. The added surface area of the scratching will do a lot for getting a better bond. Also if needed for small dimples in the mount to ensure you retain a thin but solid line of the adhesive. If the fit is perfect the pressure you apply to close the joint can cause too much glue to squeeze out where you actually want a line that is 2 to 5 thou thick. Dimples made with a center punch will ensure that the line is the correct thickness.

I'm not familiar with that rifle but I'm assuming here that it's one of the broad ramp style mounts for the actual blade. So the joining faces are about 3/8" wide and 1 1/5 or so long.
 
I would tack it on with solder to see if its aligned then solder it good the rest of the way. Glue comes apart with recoil, oil and solvents and you'll end up losing it when it falls off. Just use a high concentrate of tin in your solder and do it right the first time.
 
Some intense vibration, flexing, recoil and high heat that'd pop any glue on the planet.
Dovetails are cut, not installed. If you have the machines and skill to cut dovetails, you don't need solder or glue.
The bluing must come off on the spot you're silver soldering. Easily done with a piece of emery cloth.
 
sunray said:
Some intense vibration, flexing, recoil and high heat that'd pop any glue on the planet.
Dovetails are cut, not installed. If you have the machines and skill to cut dovetails, you don't need solder or glue.
The bluing must come off on the spot you're silver soldering. Easily done with a piece of emery cloth.
Click to expand...

can you read , or are you just so excited that you get use your keyboard and post that you completely ignore the thread and post whatever thought waves the aliens are sending you ?

I'm not soldering the sight on .... I have no desire to damage the bluing anymore than I have too .
install / cut a couple dovetails ....... same bloody difference . and the only machines a person needs to do this is a set of good files and patience .

you like to nit pick at minor things , yet I have seen some very huge mistakes , possibly unsafe advice in some of your posts ...... yet when corrected you never acknowledge the correction and you never try to fix the error .....
hell I have never seen you post more than once in a single thread . almost like your a bot program designed to only spew out bad advice once per thread .

yet you just keep spewing out more and more drivel , with what can only seem like your only intent is to drive your post count higher and higher .
 
Why not drill and tap it if the barrel is thick enough. I have seen guns break some of the strongest glues on front sights. And the big problem is, it wont get lose or anything first it will just fall off, and with my experiance with Murphy (the sodding prick) it will be at the most inopportune time you can immagine.
 
Did glue with liquid welder a metallic 22 lr sight to my 12 inch barrel Tombstone... After 50 slugs and 50 00 Buckshot, it's still quite sturdy, preparation must be well done then it will last forever... JP.
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Don't underestimate good old silicone glue. Being that it maintains some flexibility even when cured it may work. The shock shouldn't shatter the bond thus.
I've a Steyr - Hahn that Likes to spit out it's recoil spring retainer, silicone glue works surprisingly well and this is the piece that is on the slide and under constant load ( to some degree...it varies as to what part of the cycle the slide is at of course) at all times.
This isn't my 9 x 19 steyr either; but my 9 x 23...a brisk round.
Just has to be clean.
Silicone glue is insanely tough stuff, it was used to hold the heat repelling tiles on the 1st space shuttle remember?
And its affordable and everywhere.
I've seen a siliconed on drawworks cover that required a 5 ton winch to get it off, and we thought the handle would tear of 1st.
As someone else said "Let us know how it works out"
 
Ever considder drilling and tapping or stakeing....even dovetailing the front sight on rather than using glue? All of the afore mentioned methods are standard practice...except glue
 
I've seen sights, and done some myself with JB weld that are years old and work fine. Prep the area properly as others have described and you're done.

There are also more expensive metal bonding agents that are even tougher, and hold up to all manner of crazy abuse.
 
ciphery said:
Ever considder drilling and tapping or stakeing....even dovetailing the front sight on rather than using glue? All of the afore mentioned methods are standard practice...except glue
Click to expand...

Olden daze stuff is grand, but lots of things have surpassed 'What was standard practice'
Polymer pistols and high impact plastic stocks come to mind.
 
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