Going to order and attempt my first run

[BigGameHunter]

Nothing special.

I have a couple thousand 9mm brass and that is what I primarily shoot.

I plan on making around 500 rounds.

This is what I have as an idea

1lbs of powder @ 7000 grains per pound and between 5 and 12 grains based on different loads will give me between 500 and 1000 rounds

500 FMJ 115 or 124 grain 9mm bullets whatever is available/value/etc

500/1000 pistol primers

9mm die set.

I understand that the first batch will probably cost at least as much as if I were to purchase the ammunition complete however I will have 500 surplus rounds that I was able to control the variables and maybe make 50-100 at a time in order to develop the appropriate and best round "blends" I can come up with.

2 weeks ago I purchased a Lee 50th anniversary kit so I have the press, scale, powder hopper so let me know if this sounds like I am on the right track.

I have never reloaded before but I have been reading up on it and watching a few youtube videos as well as reading the forums. Any information that can help would be valuable such as what is the best powder for 9mm in terms of overall performance/value.

What are good names in lead as I know names like hornady and then staple names but I mean I am probably just buying in bulk so FMJ is really just FMJ isn't it?

Primers I figure you buy in a flat and are pretty much the same.

I would like to also experiment with the different ends of the loading spectrum with the 9mm. Someone told me it is kind of an underrated beginner reloading round as even though it is pretty much a high pressure load it is straight walled and good for learning the basics of reloading on as they have a bit of a shallower learning curve then say starting off with high powered rifle loads. But then again I am more asking if this is true.

My 9mm that is my go to is a ruger P89 which is capable of pretty much whatever 9mm rounds I want to make it will take. I also have a 9mm radom that is very accurate that I would like to not so much concern myself with speed and performance as with the P89 but exclusively work on a load designed around accuracy as I feel that gun has a lot of potential for making extremely accurate.

Anyways let me have it. Thanks again.

 

[BattleRife]

If anything, the 9mm is a little funny because it is not straight-walled, rather it has a very slight taper. Not enough to make a practical difference to the reloading process, mind you, just make sure you get carbide dies and you're good to go. Some people insist that taper crimping is a must, but I have gotten away with a mild roll crimp. The only other pain with reloading 9mm is the components are small, so it can be fiddly. I learned to load straight wall cartridges on the .44 Mag, that's a beautiful cartridge to load.

A lot of people don't like the Lee powder scale. Mine was functional enough, but it could be a bit tough to gently lock the small range weight in place to keep it from drifting. I gave it away when I found an Ohaus 5-0-5-10. Look for bulk boxes of jacketed or plated bullets, such as by Cam-pro, BDX, Berry's, etc. Bullets are heavy, so shipping is expensive, so the best value in each region tends to be closely tied to what factory/distributor is closest.

Get a printed manual!! Having a good refence book laying open on the bench is better than anything Youtube can provide. The problem with anything on the internet is you can't tell which information sources are providing good advice, and which ones are spewing BS, unless you have the experience yourself.

 

[Hotwheels81]

I would like to also experiment with the different ends of the loading spectrum with the 9mm. Someone told me it is kind of an underrated beginner reloading round as even though it is pretty much a high pressure load it is straight walled and good for learning the basics of reloading on as they have a bit of a shallower learning curve then say starting off with high powered rifle loads. But then again I am more asking if this is true.

Big rifle cases are very forgiveing to things like bullet seating depth and the odd slight powder charge variation, if your a half grain heavy even at a book maximum load it's not a big issue.... With 9mm a half grain error could be a very bad thing depending on the load.

Read your book, follow the recipes, check things carefully, once you get a few thousand rounds under your belt things make a lot more sense.

 

[legi0n]

Your Lee setup is good for the purpose, albeit a bit slow. I loaded thousands of 9mm on a similar setup weighing every charge. I don't trust the powder thrower for such small amounts of powder.

By the way, what 9mm load uses 12gr of powder? I don't think the case is big enough for such an amount regardless of the powder. But I've been wrong before

I used to load bulk FMJ but now I cast my own 125gr lead with a 6 cavities Lee 358-125-RF mold. These little pills on top of 5gr Unique are great.

After say 200 rounds there's a bit of leading but it comes off easily mainly because the bore in my 9mm is absolutely smooth. I guess it's due to the forged barrel with hammered rifling.

 

[KDX]

9mm is the only pistol round I reload for and I have used Blue Dot and Titegroup. I prefer Titegroup. I've only used 124gr Winchester and Berry's Bullets and prefer the Berry's Bullets. 4.3gr of Titegroup if I remember right. A Chargemaster 1500 Combo is really sweet if you can swing it. The cheapest place is usually Natchez in the US. Request USPS if you buy one.

 

[heavenIsAlie]

By the way, what 9mm load uses 12gr of powder? I don't think the case is big enough for such an amount regardless of the powder. But I've been wrong before

i was going to say this as well lol, i think the case only holds 8 gr of powder period

i reload my 9mm with tite group and 147 gr berry's

oh and i use federal primers, softest around so no worries about light strikes like with cci or some others