going to start reloading

RoscoeT

RoscoeT

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So like the subject says... I've decided that I need to start rolling my own .243 and .223 ammo.

I have a budget and along with dies, powder, primers, bullets and some other misc tools the Lee Anniversary kit seems to fit.

What extras would be recommended? keep in mind that I am already over my initial $300 budget here.

It's no secret that components are hard to buy these days. Is there a good source for the stuff or are we just kind of stuck trying to piece together orders? Like some bullets from here, powder from there, primers from elsewhere...ect.

Should I try more than 2 types of powder at first?
 
I don't know what people do with the brass in the buckets at the ranges, but you could always ask people for their brass before they dump it or pick it up. Just look for the people firing factory ammo, they probably don't want it and don't reload. As for the other stuff, casting your own bullets can be quite economical if done on the cheap. Can't help you with primers or powder though.
 
JaysonCraig said:
I don't know what people do with the brass in the buckets at the ranges, but you could always ask people for their brass before they dump it or pick it up. Just look for the people firing factory ammo, they probably don't want it and don't reload. As for the other stuff, casting your own bullets can be quite economical if done on the cheap. Can't help you with primers or powder though.
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Thanks, I guess what I meant by source was like an online store other than say cabelas that had a good line on powders and primers.

Cabelas is the back order specialists as far as I can tell.
 
Whereabouts are you located? Eastern Ontario/Western Quebec, best bet is Higgingson Powders, in Hawkesbury. P&D in Edmonton is a good source of components as well, don't know how readily they ship though. Ellwood Epps north of Toronto also has a decent selection at the best of times.

I've also had luck in the past ordering primers from Wholesale Sports.
 
you will probably need 1 different powder for each caliber
& you need 2 different size rifle primers
(after looking at some reloading books you might be able to pick one powder

1 lb of powder will not last very long
223 less than 280 rounds +-
243 less than 160 rounds +- depending on powder and bullet

it also depends on what you are loading for and what are your expectations

at this point if looking at components take your reloading book when they say i don't have that, :eek:go back to your book " do you have this"

I allways liked winchester components and the flat ball powder will flow in to the small neck that you have powder 748 / 760
hornady bullets are good and if you are shooting at 100 yards at paper you do not need ACBXX fancy $$ bullet

10 people will give you 10 different opinions

you probably need some one to show you the ropes or even to ask some questions or borrow there brass cleaner, to start

hope you have been saving your brass :D
 
Higginsons sells a surplus powder known as WC-735. He'll supply the load data for you but basically its 24 gr under a 55 gr .223. This powder along with Higginson's bulk 55 gr .223 bullets would be about the cheapest way I can think of to get started reloading that caliber.

You're gonna run into IVI brass for this caliber so get yourself a Hornady primer pocket reamer to deal with the primer pocket crimp. This handy tool will set you back about 10 bucks.

1000 bullets and primers will go with a 4 lb powder purchase nicely.

Have fun!
 
Going to concentrate on one cartridge at a time here. The .243 gets the nod since it's more expensive and I already own a case of .223 factory ammo, that I may sell later.

Well I found 2 types of IMR powder 4831 & 4064 that were listed in the Hornady book for .243 and bought 3lbs for experimentation purposes. I suppose I should buy more while it's in stock but heck if I know which I will want after testing.

Bought 2 bullet types. 100gr Horandy BTSP interlock and 80 gr Remington sp.

The energy calculations for those 2 bullets near max loads are fairly close. Good enough for medium sized game. (deer and yotes). Press and dies are in the mail.

Wish me luck.
 
I will focus on finding some "PRIMERS" , Starting there is good to go if you can get your hands on any kind of primers cause these are hard to find these days ,atleast for me
 
TightGroup said:
Invest in a few good books.
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I agree. The general reloading information is very necessary. For reloading guidelines and instruction, a manual is the very first thing you should get, for data, look at manufacturers' websites. It's faster and free.

Coming across data is even harder when components are as hard to come by as they are. Example, I looked through the Barnes reloading manual for .204 Varmint Grenade data only to find they had no .204 data AT ALL :confused: They do have it on their website, though.

The Hodgdon website is very handy and the data can be cut/pasted into a spreadsheet to cross-reference powders for different calibers. I colour-coded different powders for different bullets/calibers to narrow down my shopping list of one or two, then called around to find who had inventory of what.

I have the same kit you ordered and have had lots of fun using it. Been reloading for a few months now and it's totally addictive. Good luck!
 
I started reloading last year and have really enjoyed it. I started with the Lee Anniversary Kit and it has worked well for me. I agree that the most important thing you can do is buy and read reloading manuals. I have the Lee, Hornady, Lyman and Nosler manuals. They are all good in my opinion, and all well worth reading. I have used both pistol and rifle dies from Lee, RCBS and Redding and they have all worked flawlessly. Three extra things I bought were a good case trimmer, a bullet puller and assorted funnels to fit various case sizes. If you follow the instructions you should do fine. Just make sure you know where your cases come from. I was given some "once" fired cases and they were terrible. I threw them out rather than invite a problem. Saving some money reloading is great, but being cheap about it is risky. When it comes to components, it's pay now or PAY later.
 
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