Good Old .303, Who Anyone Use It?

[northwoodslivin]

.303 British.

Anyone use it?

I am looking at picking up a bubba'd Lee Enfield when my PAL comes in and was wondering how everyone likes it's performance for Moose.

Looking at putting together an inexpensive Moose rig and was wondering what the best grain weight's to use in the 50-100yrd range, best brands etc.

Also, what would be an ideal scope to use. Not looking for a multi 100 dollar Leupold. Just want something that will work well with a rifle like this.

I will get something better down the road, just looking to get my feet in the door as this will be my first big game hunt!

How does the .303 compare to say, the .308 or 30-06.
Thank you for your advice/opinions in advance!
Northwoods

 

[Amphibious]

Also, what would be an ideal scope to use. Not looking for a multi 100 dollar Leupold. Just want something that will work well with a rifle like this.

Northwoods

buy the very best scope you can afford. if you can't see it, you can't hit it. nothing wrong with a leupold on a .303.

 

[steyr_m]

The .303 would be perfect, especially for the ranges you said you'd be shooting; for any large animal in N. America maybe except the Grizzly or Polar bear. I think too may people focus on the 'perfect' round for hunting. I believe just putting a 140+ grain slug down range would be good for what you're looking for, irregardless of the round. (Many a moose has been dropped in Scandinavia by the 130-140 gr. 6.5x55 Swede)

Don't go cheap on your glass. Remember, you get what you pay for. I'd personally rather put a $800 scope on a $200 rifle than the other way around. If cost is that much of an issue, and looking at the ranges you want to shoot; just use iron sights. I'd rather do that than buy cheap/craptastic glass.

Anyway, my 2 cents.

Dan

 

[A-zone]

Looking at putting together an inexpensive Moose rig and was wondering what the best grain weight's to use in the 50-100yrd range, best brands etc.

Can't go wrong with a 180 grain bullet (in a Winchester or Remington factory load, for example).

If you're hunting at 50 to 100 yards for moose, all you need is iron sights, so that's your least costly hunting rig right there.

Remember, the .303 British was designed for use on human-sized targets and proved itself very well at ranges up to 300 yards as "normal" combat distances (with iron sights, of course).

Once you get your rifle, take it out to the range. You'll probably be surprised by what it's capable of.

 

[Amphibious]

If you're hunting at 50 to 100 yards for moose, all you need is iron sights, so that's your least costly hunting rig right there.

yup, because who wants to hunt at first light? or last light anyways? moose NEVER show up then....

 

[A-zone]

yup, because who wants to hunt at first light? or last light anyways? moose NEVER show up then....

I've never had a problem seeing iron sights during legal shooting hours.

Here in Alberta, it's illegal to discharge a firearm past "one-half hour after sunset" or one-half hour before sunrise. It's very bright then, but certainly not "first light".

I'm not familiar with the reg's in BC. Can you hunt earlier (or later) in BC?

Of course, if your eyes are bad, then, by all means, get yourself some good glass. But 100 yards? Not necessary.

 

[MiG25]

Can you hunt earlier (or later) in BC?

yes, bc is one hour before sunrise and one hour after sunset.

 

[A-zone]

yes, bc is one hour before sunrise and one hour after sunset.

Well, that's a lot more civilized that our regs.

 

[catnthehatt]

.303 British.

Anyone use it?

I am looking at picking up a bubba'd Lee Enfield when my PAL comes in and was wondering how everyone likes it's performance for Moose.

Looking at putting together an inexpensive Moose rig and was wondering what the best grain weight's to use in the 50-100yrd range, best brands etc.

Also, what would be an ideal scope to use. Not looking for a multi 100 dollar Leupold. Just want something that will work well with a rifle like this.

I will get something better down the road, just looking to get my feet in the door as this will be my first big game hunt!

How does the .303 compare to say, the .308 or 30-06.
Thank you for your advice/opinions in advance!
Northwoods

Nothing wrong at all with a .303 and irons.
180 grainers and a grizzlly?
Hit him right , and it's "bye bye bear"!
PM me if you want a P14 Enfield.
Cat

 

[walksalot]

One must remember that a lot of the .303s are a military two stage trigger. Fine once you get used to it but it can be a bugger if you upgrade to a single pull trigger.
Having said that, many hunters use the .303 and do very well indeed with it.

 

[yupper]

If you're hunting at 50 to 100 yards for moose, all you need is iron sights, so that's your least costly hunting rig right there.

Remember, the .303 British was designed for use on human-sized targets and proved itself very well at ranges up to 300 yards as "normal" combat distances (with iron sights, of course).

X 2

 

[death-junky]

yup great little cartrige

 

[the_big_mike]

.303 British.

Anyone use it?

I am looking at picking up a bubba'd Lee Enfield when my PAL comes in and was wondering how everyone likes it's performance for Moose.

Looking at putting together an inexpensive Moose rig and was wondering what the best grain weight's to use in the 50-100yrd range, best brands etc.

Also, what would be an ideal scope to use. Not looking for a multi 100 dollar Leupold. Just want something that will work well with a rifle like this.

I will get something better down the road, just looking to get my feet in the door as this will be my first big game hunt!

How does the .303 compare to say, the .308 or 30-06.
Thank you for your advice/opinions in advance!
Northwoods

If it has IS why not get used to shooting them? Generally enfields are pretty accurate beasts and the .303 won't let you down. Lots of things have been killed by the .303

If you must have a scope, try looking at the bushnell line. I have a 3200 elite and it's a great scope for the money.

As far was the 308/30-06/303 for 100 yards I doubt either or will give you a greater edge. For longer ranged shots I'd prefer a 308/30-06 but thats just me

 

[Northman999]

At the ranges you are talking about (50 - 100 yards), an Enfield is going to be fine for a moose rig; no need for a scope and no way the moose will tell the difference between that and a 308 or a 30-06. I own both 308's and 30-06's and I scope my rifles as a matter of course, but for what you want, it's totally not needed. Spend a little extra on a good sling and some premium ammo and practice and you're good to go.

 

[northwoodslivin]

Thank you all very much for your advice

I have been set on a .303 for some time now. My father own's a couple and I have shot them, but never hunted with them so I thought I would get some experienced advice.

We're both going for a moose this fall, both going to be using .303's
I have shot the 180grn Rem stuff. Works good. They have a nasty little kick to em though lol.
Thanks again fellas. I feel confident now

 

[Amphibious]

if you can find a handloader, give the Horady 174gr RN's a try. real hammers out of the .303

 

[northwoodslivin]

Thanks Amphibious.

I have been doing some reading on that. I guess the 174gr is the cat's ass, and the 180gr is "the norm" when it comes to a factory load.

I would love to get some reloading equipment and do it myself. I think it would be a whole lot of fun, and much cheaper seeing that the average 20box of .303 goes for anywhere from 17.99-20.99 for the better stuff.

Reloading... gees. I don't even know where to start :S

 

[pharaoh2]

This is my friends rifle I carried for awhile this past season.

I think your going to enjoy your rifle. It is capable of anything that walks. But I'd stop at moose or elk. The cartridge in my opinion is similar to a .308. It will shoot bullets flat enough to smack targets out to 300 yards with ease and without much holdover. I would keep my shots on game closer though. I tell my friends 200-250 max. Depending on the rifle, some can be made very accurate. We worked up a load for my buddies rifle that will cloverleaf 3 150 grain hornady's at 100 yards. And as Amphibious said, nothing wrong with a Leupold on a .303. Iron sights work fine. But a good quality scope is a nice luxury. Bench time at the range is when it shines. Low light is good too, especially if your eyes aren't that bright anymore. The precision you get form optical site's are worth the drawbacks. And a good quality scope doesn't offer many drawbacks. I would however suggest looking at getting a roll your own setup. I have a beginers LEE set that has almost everything you need. If I remeber right, I paid about $150 for it, and it has served me very well over the years. Money well spent. In this manner, you will have the oppertunity to work up the right load for YOUR rifle, and it gives you another pass time during the coldest day's of Winter. Good luck on your purchase, and have fun.

 

[northwoodslivin]

This is my friends rifle I carried for awhile this past season.

I think your going to enjoy your rifle. It is capable of anything that walks. But I'd stop at moose or elk. The cartridge in my opinion is similar to a .308. It will shoot bullets flat enough to smack targets out to 300 yards with ease and without much holdover. I would keep my shots on game closer though. I tell my friends 200-250 max. Depending on the rifle, some can be made very accurate. We worked up a load for my buddies rifle that will cloverleaf 3 150 grain hornady's at 100 yards. And as Amphibious said, nothing wrong with a Leupold on a .303. Iron sights work fine. But a good quality scope is a nice luxury. Bench time at the range is when it shines. Low light is good too, especially if your eyes aren't that bright anymore. The precision you get form optical site's are worth the drawbacks. And a good quality scope doesn't offer many drawbacks. I would however suggest looking at getting a roll your own setup. I have a beginers LEE set that has almost everything you need. If I remeber right, I paid about $150 for it, and it has served me very well over the years. Money well spent. In this manner, you will have the oppertunity to work up the right load for YOUR rifle, and it gives you another pass time during the coldest day's of Winter. Good luck on your purchase, and have fun.

Well I must say,

Your friend has got some fine taste, because that is exactly what I want to do to the LE I am going to purchase "to match my 870 Express S.S.M.

Thank you very much for your advice.

Do you think you can send me a PM with possibly a link to this LE Set you speak of.
I am interested in loading my own, something I have always given thought to.

Because once my PAL arrives, I KNOW I will be burning up 40x more ammo
Thanks again!

 

[pharaoh2]

http://wholesalesports.com/onlinest...egory_id=10510055011063/~pcategory=1051005501



Once you get the set, there are a few case specific items you will need. First are dies and a shell holder. i like LEE, but use RCBS or Redding dies. Lee uses a ruber o-ring to lock the bullet seating die in place. The other two use a locking screw. You can back them out and put them in with no change in depth. You will also obviously need powder, primers, bullets and cases. I like Winchester Brass, CCI primers, IMR powder and Hornady bullets. I belive we used 3031 powder for his rifle. I also recommend buying as many loading manuals you can find. They are full of lot's of info. The picture of the kit shows you alot of stuff. I'll break the process down for you. it sounds complicated, but it's not. I'll assume your going to load brass that's been fired already, so we'll go from there.

First, you need to take the resizing die. Dies come in two die sets. Screw it into the press, and the decapping rod and pin should be centered through the hole in the bottom. You'll understand what this is when you buy it. Grab all the cases you want to load and apply case lube to the bodies only. Not the necks. you can use a pad to lube, but i like the paste that comes with the kit. I just rub it into my hands like soap and roll the cases in between. Be sure to keep the outside of the necks free of lube. Then i like to apply a little lube to a q-tip and put a little lube on the inside of the neck and case mouth. Place the case into the shell holder on your press. Move the lever slowely but with enough pressure to completely move the case up into the die. This sizes the case and pukes out the old primer. Do all your brass like that, then continue with the next steps.

First off, you take the tool that looks like a cylinder. It's on the bottom right of the pic. It cleans out the flash hole. Scrape the deposits out by spinning the tool. Do all the cases. Use the tool that looks like a metal cone like a pencil sharpener to do the case mouth. It deburs and cleans it up. Just to the left of the flash hole deburring tool is a pic of the priming tool. it needs special shell holders, but works well. Place only about ten primers, or one row from the sleeve at a time in the tray, and put the lid on. Place each resized case into the shell holder, and slowly press the lever. Be sure the primer is going in straight, but point it away from you. Don't squish the primer. just go by the 'feel'. Put the case mouth under the spout of the powder measure. I leave mine set a few grains below the desired weight. Charge a case, and then measure it on the scale. I finish the weight off by trickling more powder on afterwards. recharge the case, put the funnel over the case and pour it back in. put it aside, and charge the remaining cases. You will have the bullet seating die set to your pre determined depth. Place each case into the shell hgolder, below the seating die. place a bullet onto the case mouth, and slowly work the lever until it stops. Voila, one reloaded cartridge. The steps become almost automatic after awhile, and you don't even think about it anymore. This is just the basics. You could get into trimming and whatnot, but my fingers are sore.