got a new sks battering ram

bandit86

bandit86

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well, new to me '51 SKS and by the look of it whoever owned it didn't know how to use it properly so he resorted to using it as a club or prybar.

I picked up some Dupli-color engine enamel to touch up the chips and scratches, has a ceramic resin in it. I didn't notice untill I got home that it calls for a 2 hour bake time at 300 degrees!

Is that too much for the gun? I know dura-coat is about 1 hour at 110 if you are in a hurry to assemble
 
300 Degrees For 2 Hours

bandit86 said:
well, new to me '51 SKS and by the look of it whoever owned it didn't know how to use it properly so he resorted to using it as a club or prybar.

I picked up some Dupli-color engine enamel to touch up the chips and scratches, has a ceramic resin in it. I didn't notice untill I got home that it calls for a 2 hour bake time at 300 degrees!

Is that too much for the gun? I know dura-coat is about 1 hour at 110 if you are in a hurry to assemble
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I hope your wife has a sense of humour! Or maybe $20 to go to Bingo for a while.
 
Not the same application, but I've used the duplicolor engine enamel on quite a few automotive projects, my recently a small block I built and dropped in last summer. I didn't do a whole lot of prep work, and I obviously didnt have a way of curing it (so it just sat for about two months until I dropped it in). I've had no problems in the last year of running it, no chipping or peeling. I'm sure curing it in the oven will add to it's durability, but if you don't feel comfortable baking it for that long at that temperature I can't imagine it will give you any trouble based on my experiences.

I've been thinking of doing the same on another project of mine, I'd like to see how yours turns out.
 
dupli-color products are great stuff. I can't speak on the engine enamel, but I use the "OEM trim paint" on other surfaces, including the stock on my '52 SKS. It is a very durable paint that is easy to apply, quick to dry and cure, and usually without runs and flaws.
 
it would be best to degrease it then sandblast or at least strip it to bare metal and give it a good scuff with sandpaper. Its all in the prep work, the time you spend here is the difference between years of good service and flaking off and looking like s**t in a couple weeks
 
supernova said:
it would be best to degrease it then sandblast or at least strip it to bare metal and give it a good scuff with sandpaper. Its all in the prep work, the time you spend here is the difference between years of good service and flaking off and looking like s**t in a couple weeks
Click to expand...

Excellent advice. Blast, degrease and scuff.
 
Scuffed off the paint that looked as it it was dried on charcoal dust, gave it a single thick coat and went on the preheated BBQ. Once it dried about 10 minutes I went into the oven. The paint went on really nice and thick, so far I like it. Now counting down the minutes

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Several thin coats are always best, go easy on it the first time firing with the new paint. Let it warm up slowly and not get too hot to avoid bubbling. Thick paint and rapid heat do not go well together. Nonetheless it should look alot better than what it did. Be sure to post some good pics when you get it all back together!
 
fully assembled. spent the night in the oven to gradually cool off. I used acetone, contact cleaner and a couple other solvents on the fresh paint, did not make a difference

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It looks good, a bit shiny for me i would go flat but hey to each his own good job boss
i have thought about painting a few gun parts and i like the though of baked on enamel thanks for the idea
cheers,
-Steve
 
I wanted semigloss too, what turned me off was that people said oily fingerprins showed a lot lore. This I wiped down with gun oil and does not make a difference
 
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