Got my 1st cannon!

fat tony

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Today I took delivery of my first cannon! it's a golf ball sized 'coehorn mortar' from cannonthunderdotcom, this guy Marc is good to deal with. This is the link(not live) to my cannon:

(the top one)

http://www.cannonthunder.com/golf_ball_mortars.html

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It's nicely made just the finish is a little rough is all, I asked him to turn it out of 4140 for me; and the touch hole is not drilled, now I need to make a carriage for it, any ideas? I am thinking of a 2 wheeled field type carriage with the wooden trail, with maybe steel wheels. Also I haven't got a clue about load data for something like this, even for just salutes. :confused:
 
Nice cannon. There's a BP cannon loading chart somewhere online that shows grains versus bore diameter. If I remember correctly a one inch bore maxed out at 100 grains when using a projectile and 200 grains for just a report. Neither charges used wads but both used charge bags.

For my cannon I used a wooden dowel just a bit smaller than the bore as a mandrel and formed charge bags out of tin foil. This way if there is a wayward coal still glowing in the bore you wont get a big suprise when you load it up.

Clean out the charge bag debris between shots. Princess Auto sells a plunger activated three finger grabbing device that works perfectly for this application. Swab the bore with a damp sponge while covering the vent with a thumbstall. Covering the vent while sponging the bore creates a vacumn and should extinguish any live coals in the bore. My experience with using charges in tin foil bags shows that after shot cleaning is easier and the chance of anything staying lit is very rare.

Have fun, be safe...cannons are a blast.
Greg
 
You could check the cannon section at w ww.muzzleloadingforum.com. Be sure to read the horror stories as well.
I had a mortar which fired tomato paste sized cans. Had a reduced diameter breech chamber. 12ga equivalent loads worked just fine.
 
this is the info i recieved with my cannon and mortar;
INSTRUCTIONS

SAFETY WARNINGS:

NEVER USE “SMOKELESS POWDER” IN A MORTAR DESIGNED FOR USE OF BLACK POWDER.



NEVER GET IN FRONT OF THE BARREL, NOR LET ANYONE PASS IN FRONT DURING LOADING AND FIRING PROCEDURES. THIS INCLUDES ANY BODY PARTS. IE; ARMS, LEGS, EYES OR FACE ETC.



WEAR SAFETY GLASSES, EAR PROTECTION AND LEATHER GLOVES.



INSPECT MORTAR BEFORE USE. MAKE SURE ALL FASTENERS ARE TIGHT. MAKE SURE MORTAR IS IN GOOD FIRING CONDITION, CHECK FOR CRACKS IN THE BARREL, CHECK MECHANICAL PROPERTIES

OF THE MORTAR BASE.



USE GOOD QUALITY BLACK POWDER AND GOOD QUALITY SAFETY FUSE ONLY.



NEVER POUR POWDER INTO THE BARREL DIRECTLY FROM POWDER CONTAINER. SECURE LID TIGHTLY AFTER EACH USE.



RETREAT 25 FEET OR MORE TO THE REAR OF THE MORTAR AFTER LIGHTING FUSE. KEEP CLEAR OF VENT BLAST



WHEN USING PROJECTILES MAKE SURE YOUR AREA IS CLEAR FOR AT LEAST SEVERAL HUNDRED YARDS (rocks metal etc). Black powder cannons and mortars have the same range and velocity as many firearms and should be treated with the same precautionary measures.



WAIT AT LEAST THREE (3) MINUTES BETWEEN RELOADING


SWAB OUT THE BORE WITH WET SWAB BETWEEN FIRING



USE GOOD COMMON SENSE. IF SOMETHING SEEMS WRONG STOP, THINK IT THROUGH AND ACT TO CORRECT IT. TRY TO PREVENT ACCIDENTS BEFORE THEY HAPPEN. WHEN IN DOUBT CALL FOR TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE.













LOADING AND FIRING PROCEDURES



Though these mortars may appear like a toy, as with any firearm treat with the utmost of respect. ALWAYS check field of range prior to loading and firing for any person(s), animals or other objects to prevent accidental injury or damage.



EQUIPMENT LIST: Main bore damp sponge and dry sponge

Powder chamber damp sponge and dry sponge

Pipe cleaners

Rammer

Small mirror

Paper funnel

Leather gloves

Safety glasses

Earplugs or earmuffs

Powder measure

Bucket of water

Fire extinguisher

Cleaning tools


1.INSPECT THE BARREL

Inspect the barrel to insure it is clean and empty. If recently fired

wait several minutes before firing again. It is best to “swab” the bore

with a damp sponge. Use a damp pipe cleaner to clean the fuse vent hole (A barrel cleaning “mop” for shotguns, make a good swab for the powder chamber. [The powder chamber is the small bore at the base of the main bore.] You want to be 100% sure no live embers are in the barrel before loading it again.

4. WET SPONGE THE BORE

Sponge with a wet (but not sopping) tight-fitting sponge with a head of terry cloth towel or cloth over a wooden cylinder affixed to a shaft at least one foot longer than the bore. The end of the sponge head should conform to the shape or the breech plug (hemispherical or flat).
Seat the sponge against the breech with hand pressure and give two full rotations of the shaft. Withdraw the sponge half-length, twist, then reseat against the breech and give another two full rotations.
Remove the sponge. if any powder container remnants or unburned powder
comes out with the sponge, repeat the process.
Sponge the powder chamber and the bottom of the bore with a damp sponge using the same method as paragraph. B.and C. supra.
Clean the vent with a damp pipe cleaner.


5. DRY SPONGE THE BORE

After wet sponge the same procedure is used with the dry sponge. The dry
sponge is cleaned and dried off periodically with an absorbent towel-type rag. (The purpose or the dry sponge is to remove excess moisture from the
bore; if water is left in the bore, it may cause incomplete burning of the next powder charge, leaving dangerously glowing residue.) Check to see the bore is clean. If not, repeat from step 1. Dry the vent with a dry pipe cleaner.


6. INSERT FUSE

Insert a 6” piece of fuse all the way into the vent hole (at least 3” of fuse should be exposed).

When using fuse, hot debris is apt to be blown out of the vent on discharge. Crew members should be aware and stand clear of vent blast and spectators kept at a safe distance, and all ammunition containers closed whenever any gun is firing.

Caution: Fuse is often the source of misfires and ignition delay, which may provide opportunity for children, pets, photographers, or others to advance beyond the safety zone. Make sure the safety zone is kept clear at all times during loading and firing procedures.



7. MEASURE POWDER

Measure the correct amount of black powder to use, based on the bore diameter of your mortar (See enclosed chart). You can always use less powder. NEVER USE MORE THAN THE MAXIMUM RECOMMENDED LOAD. Use only Cannon grade FG or FFG grade black powder. Do not exceed the powder chamber with the powder charge.

If firing a projectile, start with an extremely light powder charge [approximately 50 grains or less] to determine the range.



SECURE LID ON POWDER CAN AFTER EACH USE. NO SMOKING !!!!



8. POUR IN POWDER.

Take a piece of 8 ½” x 11” paper and fold into a “v” to use as a pouring chute. Measure powder and pour onto paper. Tilt the barrel into the vertical position and pour the powder into the barrel from the paper. Move the barrel back and forth to shake the powder into the powder chamber. Use a small mirror, angled over the barrel to observe that the powder is in the chamber. DO NOT LOOK DIRECTLY INTO THE BORE.



If you desire to fire the mortar for noise only [no projectile] a piece of wadded dry paper can be used. Make a ball and push it back against the powder charge with a wood dowel rammer. DO NOT use wet paper or any other type wadding.



9. LOAD PROJECTILE.

Carefully lower the projectile into the bore as far as possible and then drop it in. The projectile wants to be a loose slide fit so that in the event of a misfire, it can easily slide out by tilting the barrel forward. You can use duct tape to wrap metal cans with two bands [top and bottom] to adjust the air gap.



Never “double load” a barrel. Use only 1 powder charge, 1 piece of wadding or projectile





12. FIRE THE GUN

Check around the mortar area making certain it is clear. ANNOUNCE

that the mortar is to be fired.

Light the fuse and retreat. A 6” fuse give you about 10 seconds to get

away.



WAIT THREE MINUTES BEFORE REPEATING FIRING PROCEDURES



When finished with mortar, clean inside bore with black powder bore cleaner or hot soapy water and swab to scrub out the residue with a brush. Clean the powder chamber using the same method. A bottle brush works well for the powder chamber and a toilet brush for the main bore for cleaning. Dry thoroughly, and then lubricate with oil or gun lube.



MISFIRES

If the primer ignites, but the gun fails to fire:
A. Command: Do not advance, the primer has failed." Start stopwatch. Wait 3 minutes.
B. When 3 minutes has elapsed, position yourself so you will be out of vent blast should the gun discharge unexpectedly. Do not get in front of the muzzle at any time.

C. Wearing gloves, use a gimlet to clear the vent. Grasp by shaft only. Keep head away from vent. When vent is clear, refuse and fire.
D. If three attempts fail to fire the gun, flood bore and vent with water, tilt barrel forward and dump out contents. Restart loading procedure.



WARNING: Loading and firing an antique or replica muzzle loading mortar is a highly dangerous activity, and can likely result in death, dismemberment or a serious injury if caution isn’t observed. Structural integrity of the barrel, powder charge preparation, premature discharge as a result of burning embers remaining in the barrel from previous mortar fire, reliance on others to follow proper procedures and other unforeseen and unanticipated conditions may contribute to accidents, serious injury and or death. The authors and publishers of these Procedures, Rules and Guidelines specifically recommend you do not engage in this activity unless you are thoroughly trained by competent instructors, and fully aware of the potential for injury or death.

DO NOT RELY ON THE INFORMATION CONTAINED HEREIN TO PROTECT YOU FROM THE DANGERS OF ENGAGING IN THE LOADING OR FIRING OF ARTILLERY. USE COMMON SENSE



POWDER CHART



TYPE MORTAR BORE SIZE MAXIMUN GRAINS VOLUME MEASUREMENT



MORTAR GOLFBALL 1.75” 140 GRAINS 1 ¾ TEASPOONS FFG OR FG

MORTAR SODA CAN 2.75” 250 GRAINS 1 ¼ TABLESPOONS FG OR CANNON



DO NOT FILL POWDER BEYOND POWDER CHAMBER IN MORTAR. USE LIGHT LOADS.
 
Here's the powder versus calibre chart I was talking about. It is based on report charge only, no wad. Use half this amount for a projectile.
standard.jpg

Making a charge bag. Only way to go for safety and cleaning ease.
Formingthechargeholder.jpg


My cannon which I sold to a fellow CGN member. One inch bore, 23 inch long barrel, home made carriage. Selling it was a mistake.
Cannonwithfuse.jpg


Very reliable cannon fuse.
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I am interested in a larger cannon as a piece of lawn decor.
And maybe some canister for emergency zombie defence.
Any suggestions or advice.

gol durn it Unsub ya stole me thundar. :D I've got a .312 roundball mold from lee that's just begging to be used agin' :D

re: canister shot:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CRv6Aew9yY
 
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I am interested in a larger cannon as a piece of lawn decor. And maybe some canister for emergency zombie defence.
Any suggestions or advice.

This was my homemade golfball cannon before I sold it.....and below it, is my popcan (beercan) firing Coehorn mortar. Both were turned out of solid steel bar stock. My next cannon is going to be cast iron with a bore sleeve, now made in a foundry out here in SW Ontario. Quality is not bad for the price.

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coehorn-1.jpg
 
Weapontech....very nice pieces.
How did you do the finish on the cannon barrel ? very nice....

Thanks....
Would you believe it's cold blueing? I basically put it on with a sponge, and let it sit until it turned green......then 000 steel wool. I think I did 2 or 3 applications and no oil afterwards.
It took on that interesting patina.
Wish I had kept the cannon, I do regret selling it. Afterall, it was my first! :D
The mortar is a hoot........it'll lob a cement filled pop-can so high you loose sight of it, and at least 350-400 meters down range. The fired cans I've been able to find are buried afew feet down too!
 
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Thanks....
Would you believe it's cold blueing? I basically put it on with a sponge, and let it sit until it turned green......then 000 steel wool. I think I did 2 or 3 applications and no oil afterwards.
It took on that interesting patina.
Wish I had kept the cannon, I do regret selling it. Afterall, it was my first! :D
The mortar is a hoot........it'll lob a cement filled pop-can so high you loose sight of it, and at least 350-400 meters down range. The one's I've been able to find are buried afew feet down too!

the whole rig is finished great.thanks for posting the pics.
 
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