Got my 3rd revolver today

These thing look neat.
Be curious about how the forcing cone works out though.
Since not a traditional N frame, it looks like there have been some allowances made by S&W so that this bit doesn't get whacked to hard.
With the six shot versions, the barrel shank is likely excessive.
I'd pay careful atention to this area.
Let me (us) know!
All the best,
R
 
My 2nd Smith, a 627 Performance Center, 8 round of 357mag. I can honestly say this is the most beautiful and well built gun I've ever held in the short time I've has my PAL, the single action trigger is light and crisp and the DA fairly light and smooth at around 8lbs. Lock up is really tight and uniform on all eight chambers and cylinder to forcing cone gap is at .005" on all chambers.

Needless to say I can't wait to get it to the range.

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Boy that is a sweet looking gun, I want one. Where can i get one?
 
These thing look neat.
Be curious about how the forcing cone works out though.
Since not a traditional N frame, it looks like there have been some allowances made by S&W so that this bit doesn't get whacked to hard.
With the six shot versions, the barrel shank is likely excessive.
I'd pay careful atention to this area.
Let me (us) know!
All the best,
R

The design of the barrel and forcing cone haven't changed since the 627 was introduced in the early '80s and I've never heard of any problems.
 
Typical mod 27/28/627 forcing cone has a chamfer at X degrees right from the face... ...of late, it would appear that the rifling is absent until the exterior threads hit the frame and the portion beforehand may be a bit latger than bore. Think that it is agreat looking revolver; however, would be curious to see how this cone handles a varied diet.
R

The design of the barrel and forcing cone haven't changed since the 627 was introduced in the early '80s and I've never heard of any problems.
 
put a little light grease on the pivot posts and oil the action and i bet it feels even better.
don't forget to remove the cylinder and lube the crane both ends and small amount of lube on the ejector rod

btw - that is a very nice gun congrats
 
put a little light grease on the pivot posts and oil the action and i bet it feels even better.
don't forget to remove the cylinder and lube the crane both ends and small amount of lube on the ejector rod

btw - that is a very nice gun congrats

I've already stripped the whole revolver and treated it with Froglube, it's smooth as butter now.
 
Am I ever glad I've gotten into the habit of completely disassembling every gun I buy, this thing didn't have a single drop of oil in it, completely dry.

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Beautiful revolver OP. Is it just me, or does anyone else feel that S&W ought to lubricate prior to packaging. Not everyone is as diligent as the OP and I couldn't imagine putting down that kind of coin and open the side plate months after shooting only to find Sahara dry metal dust in there. I hope this was just an oversight on Smiths part and is not standard operating procedure for them.
 
Beautiful revolver OP. Is it just me, or does anyone else feel that S&W ought to lubricate prior to packaging. Not everyone is as diligent as the OP and I couldn't imagine putting down that kind of coin and open the side plate months after shooting only to find Sahara dry metal dust in there. I hope this was just an oversight on Smiths part and is not standard operating procedure for them.

I know when I bought my 460V the action was dripping with oil, so I guess they just missed this one.
 
I've already stripped the whole revolver and treated it with Froglube, it's smooth as butter now.

When I get my hands on my TRR8 next week it will be my first step into the wheel gun world. Iam used to maintaining 1911's, AR's and precision long guns for the most part and like to take good care of my guns. That said, can anyone sow a pic with the side plate off so I can see exactly where I need to apply grease and oil? Other wise Im probably going to over do it.

Cheers!
 
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