got some magnum slugs :D

I didn't have the sound on (courtesy reasons) but I wonder why he sealed the shot cup to the slug in front? :confused: The way I reason it, the shotcup is not going to separate from the slug after it leaves the barrel. . . If it was me, I would have either pried open the crimp and resealed it later with wax, or cut off the crimp closer to the case mouth, cut back the shot cup petals and put a roll crimp on. Not that I have ever done a roll crimp. The way he sealed it in my opinion, there is now no crimp for the round, so the 'start pressure' is going to be erratic.

I am going to have to try this modification though to see if his way is good or not. ;)

I think it's just to save time, busting the crimp open on 100 shells is gona take a while, it would also be a pita to get the slug back in.

I was also concerned about the slug sticking to the cup so I only put two dabs of silicone instead of that ring.. but even with the full ring, i'm pretty sure the wind would seperate the two.
 
I have a box of Winchester skeet loads, I am thinking I will get one of the Lyman Foster slug molds, and get a few bags of different card wads, and experiment. I feel better making them 'full caliber'. However, the Lee molds are a lot cheaper. Such a toss up.

* maybe if you got some blue locktite it would provide a good substitute 'crimp' for the shot cup to the hull with the Lee Key Drive slug.
 
I do a similar thing with these lee slugs. currently Iam using the 7/8oz mold, Winchester universal 2 3/4",1 1/8oz #8 bulk packs, I save the shot and use pure lead, open the crimp with a pointed tool, empty shot and use a rod to form the hull straight, insert OS cards to bring up the slug height in the wad, I bought a Lee LoadAll2 to crimp the shell closed. These cycle in an 1100 with a short 20" barrel no prob. I just recently got a 1oz mold and will try these soon.
Also on another forum, it was discussed to cut off a bit of each petal to aid in the release of the projectile from the wad. With my previous experiments and note of my recovered wads in comparison to others, it appears the slug is being held by the petals when the slug is accelerated and pushed to open the hull. They recommended cutting back the petals to the point of where the slugs curved surface is when just seated in the wad.
 
good info thanks for that, im sure itll come in handy once we start making some of our own.

speaking of cycling, do you guys have any issues with the 2 3/4 shells once you cut that 1/4 inch or so off?
 
Thanks Mckutzy, I guess I will be getting a Lee Load All and a key drive slug mold. :D :D So many toys so little time. :D

Just for the sake of the discussion, I thought I would be smart and fire a 12 gauge cut off just in front of where the card wad was (Winchester 1oz slug load), and single loaded it in my Remington 870 Express today, and pulled the trigger. That was dumb. What happened was the wad was blown about 14" up the pipe and stopped, and all the powder was blown back into the action and even the magazine follower had flakes of unburned powder there :eek: I had to take her off the line, remove the barrel tap out the wad and give it a good cleaning. I was afraid of something like this happening with the American fellows uncrimped slug loads, but I guess 437 grains of lead provides enough resistance for a relatively clean burn. I am quite leery of firing a slug uncrimped though. Good call on the Load-All.
 
See this is what my thought was about this, not enough back pressure to burn any or not enough powder to propel the payload out of the gun. Had this been out of an autoloader with gas it could have blocked or not reached the gas ports, it could have gaslocked the action and trying to open the breach could have been very dangerous.
All sorts of potential problems could have arisen. my first shots were out of my Mossberg pump, singly fed and after the first bunch the barrel and action was checked for any issues. no abnormal sight or sounds on my end. Then I checked the 1100 and the same singly fed and checked each shot for issues. Now this is what I did/do but dont avocate doing it but I find it a safe and it is significantly cheaper than store bought. My operation payed off in about the first 2-3 bulk packs. so it was a bunch of fun right off the bat.
 
I have a box of Winchester skeet loads, I am thinking I will get one of the Lyman Foster slug molds, and get a few bags of different card wads, and experiment. I feel better making them 'full caliber'. However, the Lee molds are a lot cheaper. Such a toss up.

* maybe if you got some blue locktite it would provide a good substitute 'crimp' for the shot cup to the hull with the Lee Key Drive slug.

Before you commit to a slug mould design, why dont you try a few slugs from this outfit:

h ttp://gardnerscache.com/lead_rifle_bullets.html

Then you can experiment with differing makes before you commit to a single slug design buddy!

PS: If you try the Lyman 'Sabot' Slug you might be happily surprized. The extra benefit to this handloaded slug, is that you can use regular winchester plastic wads. (you might have to cut off the wad petals, its been awhile since) Don't be deceived by the handle, it looks like an airgun pellet on steroids. BTW, Lee moulds are often cheaper for a very good reason. IIRC, Blue Dot was the go-to powder for my shotgun slug handloads.
 
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