Got to shoot the 1911 for the first time!
- Thread starter drache
- Start date
Two other people were having the same problems but I'll wait for another range trip. But being left handed though wouldn't the gun pull to the left when pulling the trigger?
Like I said the day went nice and the only "problem" was the bent casing, but like I said it was the very last shot of the day and had no problems from the 99 rounds that came before it.
When I first started shooting my Norc commander my groups were to the left. Turned out to be the way I squeezed the trigger. I'm right handed. An experienced auto shooter pointed out that I should be useing the end pad of my finger as opposed to the first joint.
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X2
Always seems to shoot to the left when I first started shoothing handguns. I am right handed , so I guess since you are left handed you will shoot to the right. Also most of the new shooter I initiate seems to have the same problem.
Todd is your best friend, when it come to helping you hit a Target where you want to
[youtube]ysa50-plo48[/youtube]
Took me about 3000-4000 rounds to correct the problem. It a Question of Trigger time as least it was for me.
Keep on shooting
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Jason, to answer your question, if you know enough about your gun, you don't get jam or function failure, but if you don't know enough about a gun design, even a Glock will fail, I've seen a lot, people have fail on their Sig and Glock, it wasn't the gun. it was how they hold the gun. After eight year of handgun shooting, I've decided to enter the world of 1911 and learn about this amazing design, there has to be a reason why every company try to produce 1911.
Trigun
same reason everyone has a Stratocaster (copy or original). the design just works, regardless of inherent flaws or weirdness. i have to admit that the 1911 design is growing on me faster than money grows on me. seems that these days it's very much "here's a 1911 exactly as you'd want it. now, what brand name would you like engraved onto the side?"
- Location
- Niagara Region, Ontario. For now
I had a norinco police model I put probably 2000 rounds through and all this with maby a handful of jams. Usually from my reloads, and new shooters limpwristing. To anyone slagging the 1911's or norinco - GFY! Find me a 350 dollar gun that does any better!
Now as far as the 1911 and recoil goes, you are correct in that the recoil is not so bad. It is very different then the higher pressure rounds like 9mm and 40 cal. It is usually described as more of a push than the snap of the others. I liked it, but 9mm is just so much cheaper to shoot, and if I'm gonna spend big money for large caliber ammo I decided the 44mag was a better choice! now my gun snaps and pushes at the same time! Lol
Now as far as the 1911 and recoil goes, you are correct in that the recoil is not so bad. It is very different then the higher pressure rounds like 9mm and 40 cal. It is usually described as more of a push than the snap of the others. I liked it, but 9mm is just so much cheaper to shoot, and if I'm gonna spend big money for large caliber ammo I decided the 44mag was a better choice!
now my gun snaps and pushes at the same time! Lol
My Norinco would do the same thing once in a while with lead RN rounds from Wolf, but it hasn't done it once with TMJ. It might just be your ammo. I've also noticed that once or twice the slide stop has worked its way upward just enough to partially touch the slide - this seems to slow the slide just enough to cause the FTE in your pic.
I'm left handed, too, and shoot to the right and a little high most of the time. Accoeding to the charts I've seen, its cause by anticipating recoil and trigger finger position, as mentioned. Follow this link:
http ://www.reloadbench.com/pdf.html
There are printable targets for left and right handed shooters that tell you what you are doing wrong.
http ://www.reloadbench.com/pdf.html
There are printable targets for left and right handed shooters that tell you what you are doing wrong.
I find a Browning HP 9mm has ore snap in the recoil (and torque) than a 45.
In my last match I was getting the same bent case jam you did. But I got it almost everytime in the last shot.
As suggested, I will clean the extractor area with a brush and then add some spring tension to the extractor.
I have never looked to see how the extractor is held in or what kind of spring it has. An explanation of HOW to add spring tension would eb welcome.
In my last match I was getting the same bent case jam you did. But I got it almost everytime in the last shot.
As suggested, I will clean the extractor area with a brush and then add some spring tension to the extractor.
I have never looked to see how the extractor is held in or what kind of spring it has. An explanation of HOW to add spring tension would eb welcome.
Here is a very good things about 1911 as well as CZ design. No matter who made them, what different is the name, fit and finish but they just work. some will better than the others. I have found no matter which name you buy, if you don't do some modifcation, you'll never really understand how they work.
Trigun
Good post Trigun. So now you and the others have me convinced I have to buy a 1911 styled pistol. I prefer to shoot 9mm. Should I go 45ACP instead? I want suggestions and price ranges from the 1911 gurus here and then we'll see what I buy. Remember though, whatever I buy will get a full range report, good or bad, but honest and accurate. And I'm due to buy a new pistol. I don't think that buying a used and/or tweaked 1911 makes a fair review. Let's hear some suggestions..............
Wolfstrack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Lower Mainland BC
JasonS, 1911 pistol was made by JB for the 45ACP
now I don't say that 1911's in 9mm/40SW are bad or not reliable...
I personally prefer to shoot the original 230gr 45 FMJ caliber !!!
300-450 Norinco GI or Commander
550-700 Regent, RIA, AOrdnance, Para GI
800-900 Springfield GI, STI Spartan
900 - +++ open to your budget
now I don't say that 1911's in 9mm/40SW are bad or not reliable...
I personally prefer to shoot the original 230gr 45 FMJ caliber !!!
300-450 Norinco GI or Commander
550-700 Regent, RIA, AOrdnance, Para GI
800-900 Springfield GI, STI Spartan
900 - +++ open to your budget
It doesn't really matter which cal you buy. I still waiting for the NP-29 from Marstar or the Spartan from Armco, they are both 9mm. A cheaper piece will allow me to do some modifcation without hurt, from there I can learn something about the design without break the bank. I was told the 1911 was designed for ball ammo, if you choose the correct type of ammo, it should have any problems. Some expert at your range will give more insight.
Trigun
Brutus
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I have a .45 ACP Colt 1991A1 (stainless 1911) that is troublefree 99.9% of the time.
I say 99.9 because my sh#tty reloads, (once upon a time) and the occassional crapped out mag were to blame.
It is my favorite autoloader by far.
And it's not just good with factory 230 grain ball ammo.
Introducing the 200 grain SWC Hensley & Gibbs #68 bullet design, for cast loads:
Launched by 5.0 grains of Red Dot powder.
I say 99.9 because my sh#tty reloads, (once upon a time) and the occassional crapped out mag were to blame.
It is my favorite autoloader by far.
And it's not just good with factory 230 grain ball ammo.
Introducing the 200 grain SWC Hensley & Gibbs #68 bullet design, for cast loads:
Launched by 5.0 grains of Red Dot powder.
- Location
- Sudbury, On
Yeah I guess my ammo has allot to do with the recoil. The ammo I was using was 230JHP by Fiocchi (the only ammo in stock at the time).
The brass was flying about 9 feet (give or take a foot), granted Ive never really shot handguns allot so I cant say if thats far or not.
Thats what I figured on the final shot. The slide locked open and when I looked to clear the gun that casing was still there. What can you expect from a damn Norinco
Nice. Not too bad though.
When I shoot my CX4 Storm carbine, it tends to eject brass well over twenty feet. I need a tacticool brass-catcher.
I have a .45 ACP Colt 1991A1 (stainless 1911) that is troublefree 99.9% of the time.
I say 99.9 because my sh#tty reloads, (once upon a time) and the occassional crapped out mag were to blame.
It is my favorite autoloader by far.
And it's not just good with factory 230 grain ball ammo.
Introducing the 200 grain SWC Hensley & Gibbs #68 bullet design, for cast loads:
Launched by 5.0 grains of Red Dot powder.
NOW THAT! is shiny brass.
If you have feeding problem that odd 0,01% of the time, maybe check the OAL, when I use this LSWC design I seat it just under the shoulder (about 40thou deeper than shown). Post seat resizing also helps alot, from your picture we can still see the belling of the mouth, Lee FCD set to minimum does the trick
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
The most reliable 1911s appear to be those that stay true to the original design, and attempts to improve accuracy most often lead to reliability issues. No one can shoot up to a 10 MOA pistol in a fight, regardless of which pistol they choose. I have 2 1911s that I would carry without hesitation, and IMHO that design has resulted in the best fighting pistol ever devised. None of the modern crop of pistols have their controls as conveniently placed, none have triggers that allow for as fast or accurate a first shot out of the holster, none are as slim in profile, and none are as forgiving to limp wristing. The two closest runners up; the Browning P-35 and the CZ-70 have out of the box safety levers that are two small. To those who believe that nothing old can be as good as something new, that is only true if the new product is an improvement over the old, and the new pistol designs embrace elements that are irrelevant to fighting.
The 1911 isn't perfect but it is nearly so. Some folks may have trouble reaching the trigger, some folks are unable to reliably depress a flat grip safety. Some 1911s may require a change in sights, some may require an enlarged ejection port, some are more particular than others with respect to the ogive length of the bullets they are fed unless the slide lock is tweaked to some degree, and most need to be de-horned. These improvements are of a minor nature, and inexpensive.
The 1911 isn't perfect but it is nearly so. Some folks may have trouble reaching the trigger, some folks are unable to reliably depress a flat grip safety. Some 1911s may require a change in sights, some may require an enlarged ejection port, some are more particular than others with respect to the ogive length of the bullets they are fed unless the slide lock is tweaked to some degree, and most need to be de-horned. These improvements are of a minor nature, and inexpensive.
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In the two handed stance I find the grip safety will not depress enough to allow the pistol to fire. I had to put a rubber band around it when I did my Black Badge course.
But the pistol is reliable and comfortable to shoot. Though I use my Tokrev and shoot that pistol better than my others, but hey, it is also based on the 1911.
But the pistol is reliable and comfortable to shoot. Though I use my Tokrev and shoot that pistol better than my others, but hey, it is also based on the 1911.
