GP100 impressions

JimmieA. said:
I cannot detect a difference between the GP100 and the S&Ws but that is just me. They are a little cheaper than the S&W and stronger as well.
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Don't confuse bulk with strength. The difference between Ruger and S&W revolvers is that Ruger frames are cast while S&W frames are forged. Ounce for ounce/pound for pound, forged frames are stronger than cast frames.
 
Ganderite said:
"Like I said in my earlier post - easily fixed with a $9 spring from Wilson Combat, and your still way under the price of a S&W compared to the GP100."

This sounds like a great idea. Can you tell me more? Can a guy with 10 thumbs do this?

Similar kit available for the SP101?
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If you go to the Wilson Combat do a search for Ruger GP100, it will give the info for the spring kit ($9.95). They are currently out of stock.


The same kit is sold at Brownells ($11.84) and is currently in stock.

I was off my price by a couple of dollars but still less than $15 by the time you get it.

It is easily installed and there are several good videos on youtube that walk you through the process.

I'm not sure what the "whole shooter's pack" is that NorthCoastBigBore referred to.
 
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Steiner said:
I've been thinking of a GP100 for awhile. Any preference or recommendations regarding barrel length?
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I have both. I bought a 6" because the 4.2" wasn't available when I bought it. I couldn't be happier with both revolvers, but I changed out the sights (night sights on the 4.2" and a hiviz on the 6"). The factory front sight is just too black to be picked up properly in my indoor range (black rears on black front makes for a bad combination).

If I had bought my 4.2" first, I likely wouldn't have a 6". The balance is absolutely perfect. The 6" is definitely muzzle-heavy, BUT it is accurate, I enjoy shooting it, and as a small bonus, it absorbs the recoil a bit better on the magnum loads (the 4.2" is a bit snappier in this regard).

My bottom line? If you're going to get one, get the 4.2" model. You won't be disappointed.
 
Steiner said:
Thanks Geo. I was leaning to the 4.2" and you've convinced me that will be a good choice.
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v-king said:
Go with ss, it looks great !
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As I said, you won't be disappointed :) My 4.2" GP100 is neck and neck with my CZ 85 Combat as my 2 favourite handguns in my modest collection, but I had to tune the trigger on the CZ - I'm happy with the GP as-is out of the box, which I suppose gives it the edge...

Both my GPs are stainless, which is my preference for a double-action Ruger. Nothing wrong with a blued GP, but I think bluing is best reserved for a classic S&W or Colt. I don't mind bluing on a single-action either.
 
Just a reminder to check your cylinder throats on your GP100. Rugers are notorious for having tight cylinder throats. Mine were all =or< .357. 5 minutes with a throat reamer solves the problem. I noticed an immediate improvement in accuracy after I had mine done.

Take Care

Bob
 
I was finally able to get my blued 4.2 GP100 to the range today using Fed .38 and .357 ammo.

I LOVE this revolver! I have no interest in 9mm anymore. About <75 .38s, I got it dialed in for zero at 15 yrds. Well balanced, great feel, great accuracy, great sound and smell...yes, smell.

I am considering losing a long gun to finance a SS version.

Def no regrets on this purchase. The GP is a keeper.
 
Mark Mags said:
I was finally able to get my blued 4.2 GP100 to the range today using Fed .38 and .357 ammo.

I LOVE this revolver! I have no interest in 9mm anymore. About <75 .38s, I got it dialed in for zero at 15 yrds. Well balanced, great feel, great accuracy, great sound and smell...yes, smell.

I am considering losing a long gun to finance a SS version.

Def no regrets on this purchase. The GP is a keeper.
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Frickin rights it is! :)
 
First time I see GP in "action". Justified Season 3.
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Maybe if I had an extra cylinder. I'm not about to machine my cylinder for moon clips when speedloaders are available. I even use the S&W ones just because I have them. Sure they're a tad small, but wiggle 3/8 of the cartridges it and unlock and they all drop....just keep everything vertical!
 
handofzeus said:
Maybe if I had an extra cylinder. I'm not about to machine my cylinder for moon clips when speedloaders are available. I even use the S&W ones just because I have them. Sure they're a tad small, but wiggle 3/8 of the cartridges it and unlock and they all drop....just keep everything vertical!
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You can still use speedloaders with the conversion cylynder ftom TK Custom...
 
Go with 10 Ring Precision instead if you want a moon clip conversion done. The "downside" to most conversions is that they now ONLY shoot properly when your loading rounds with a moon clip, these guys are different...you can load them traditionally still, ie. one at a time, use a moon clip or use a speed loader. Its a win/win/win as you in my books and I plan to get it done eventually.
 
jeffcarr88 said:
Go with 10 Ring Precision instead if you want a moon clip conversion done. The "downside" to most conversions is that they now ONLY shoot properly when your loading rounds with a moon clip, these guys are different...you can load them traditionally still, ie. one at a time, use a moon clip or use a speed loader. Its a win/win/win as you in my books and I plan to get it done eventually.
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TK Custom's conversion also allows the three methods of loading.
 
jeffcarr88 said:
Go with 10 Ring Precision instead if you want a moon clip conversion done. The "downside" to most conversions is that they now ONLY shoot properly when your loading rounds with a moon clip, these guys are different...you can load them traditionally still, ie. one at a time, use a moon clip or use a speed loader. Its a win/win/win as you in my books and I plan to get it done eventually.
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Same with the TK Custom conversion...

ETA - read more, post less quickly...
 
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