Grease for shotgun contact points!

GameStalker30-06

GameStalker30-06

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I normally use oil on all my shotguns, their contact points, friction points etc... Have read a few posts about grease being "better", as it don't run back into the wood, stays at the point of contact longer since it don't get "pushed" away etc...Wondering what kind of grease and where can I get it. I mostly want to use it on my O/U.

Comments greatly appreciated,

Thanks.
 
Any wheel bearing high pressure grease will do. I use Lucas heavy duty blue bearing grease from crappy tire. Just a dab and rub it in with you finger then wipe excess off.
 
Let me frame my comments with this:

I had a Beretta 686 Silver Pigeon that I put (conservatively) 60,000 rounds through using this method and the jewelling on the side of the barrel-receiver mating surface was JUST starting to show the slightest arc of wear. After 60,000 rounds and probably 50,000 cycles total (including all the dry fire practice and misc. fitting/handling).

I used a red grease called "Shooter's Choice" which you can get most anywhere; it comes in a syringe with a white plastic applicator tip so you can really control where it goes.

Disassemble, wipe all the dirt and residue up (comes up nicely with this grease, without using solvent); quick dab (the size of about 1/2 of a peppercorn, say) on each of the pivot pins in the receiver and the female mating surfaces on the barrels. Lube the curve of the pivot, and the flat of the mating surface (so it spreads evenly by itself, without having to stick your fingers in it). Put the same small dab on the barrel mating surface (both sides), and give it an even smear with your clean/dry finger. Put a little dab on the locking lugs (if a Beretta-style action like mine was). Reassemble the gun and work it gently a few times. Before you put the forestock on, put the TINIEST little dab on the tip of the ejector plungers (the 'beak' that sits covered by the forestock) and smear it lightly with a finger.

If you disassemble the ejectors from time to time, as you should, then clean the channels well and lube liberally - can't have too much in THERE, unless you're shooting in the butt-cold... in which case, take a swipe of low-weight synthetic motor oil and put it on cleaned-to-the-bone parts there.

Voilà! You wouldn't believe how good the wear protection is with SC grease, IMO.

-M
 
I made the mistake of using white lithium grease on sale at Canadian Tire and it actually stopped the mechanism of my 1187 from fully engaging. Of course this was when I was lined up with the tasiest 18 month old button buck. A fire ball shot out of the receiver, I then tried to fire again, no luck, ejected the next shell, no luck. Well long story short the initial slug was jammed in the barrel, any shell fired would have blown up the barrel! A can of WD-40 later, the mechanism was clean and shoting as good as ever. Grease may work for break barrels but I would not use it for any semi's or pumps.
 
Grease isn't a good idea on a semi or pump however using it on the hinge pins and the mating surfaces between the receiver and forend iron will increase an o/u or sxs's longevity. It also won't detract from a hinge guns functioning no matter how cold it gets.

Several years ago I received three tubes of Nyoil synthetic grease as a gift. It works fine as does STOS or any similar lubricant. The key is to not to put on too much and to clean it regularly. My barrels may go weeks without a cleaning but the grease is religously cleaned and replaced after each outing.
 
Quackman said:
Grease may work for break barrels but I would not use it for any semi's or pumps.
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I agree 100% here. I use CLP for my semi's when it's cold. Hot out? Make love to the grease. Cold out? I'd rather run it dry and have it work than have it greased and 'glued.'

In a pump, I don't find it as bad - certainly no excess, but still grease... a little more arm power is easier to find than a little more gas power!

-M
 
I agree with Doc M about grease. And he can tell you like any of us that has shot in competition that the gun's metal will get hot. Hot metal parts cause oils to run off but grease will stick around and do the job.
 
JasonS said:
I agree with Doc M about grease. And he can tell you like any of us that has shot in competition that the gun's metal will get hot. Hot metal parts cause oils to run off but grease will stick around and do the job.
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You're damned right about THAT! :)

Standing in the hot sun, shooting International Trap on a 6-squad, seeing heat mirage at the top of the green-painted bunker... with black barrels and hot 24g 7-1/2, pulling both barrels every time out of habit - break the target, then break the biggest piece...

Yeah, she gets a little warm sometimes! ;)

The only time I ever had trouble with grease was when training, after walking back to the clubhouse for a squirt of water and leaving my gun outside in the early spring when it was about -10ºC outside and the club had JUST opened for the season.

I got to jabbering away with one of the old regulars, Don Sanderlin, and ended up taking about 30mins inside when I meant to take 3.

Got back out, and found that my ejectors had become extractors due to the grease viscosity... still not a major issue, but enough that it made me think.

-M
 
WD-40 is horrible, no! bad! It is a penetrating oil which...penetrates and swells steel. A gunsmith with actually use penetrating oil to kill a primer in a stuck round etc. Graphite grease is the best, hot or cold IMO.
 
Beretta (black), Kreighoff (blue), Top-Gun (red) & STOS ("Slipperier Than Owl S--t" clear) ... all work good and one or the other should be available from a good gun store.

I always try the gun stores for gun stuff first ... better bet than the tire or hardware stores ! ;)
 
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Kidding!
 
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