Grease for the AR Barrel Nut

Matt K said:
I've taught armourer schools for 12 years. I'm a Colt and Colt Canada certified armourer instructor.

We've fired billions of rounds and built and re-built guns used and abused in all the worst ways.

We've tested the procedure with and without any lubes and found that there is no advantage and sometimes disadvantage.

Colt and Colt Canada don't use it in production. Most techs I meet don't use it.

I've seen guys delay assembling or drive across town looking for grease that won't really help.

That's just my two cents.
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OK. Are you a CF Weapons Tech. too by chance? The reason I ask is that most I've known did use anti-seize.
Like others, I too side with being taught the principles of threading or mating dissimilar metals.
However, when it comes to guns I'm not qualified to tie my own shoes...


I'd like to hear of the disadvantages Colt and Colt Canada have run across with using a sparing amount of lube.
 
Yes i watched the video before purchasing the grease what surprise me is that in ARFcom i was not able to locate a source until i google 33MS and be hold i found in online from Aircraft Spruce. Some US site sold the grease for 5 bucks for 10ml rofl

Bojangles said:
Yes, I purchased it online from "Aircraft Spruce" in Brantford Ontario for $20 bucks plus shipping.

Here is some Youtube video of a barrel install using the 33MS grease

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Aeroshell 33MS is also specified in the Noveske barrel nut installation instructions which I always follow when installing one of their handguards.

If you use an anti-seize compound that includes graphite in its ingredients it MAY cause galvanic corrosion between it and the aluminum anodizing. This is why the TDP specifies molybdenum disulfide grease for the barrel nut threads.
I'm surprised that Colt Canada of all companies would stray from this.
 
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I've always used Moly with good results. But then I've only built or re-barreled a handful of ARs and only fired tens of thousands of rounds. I think I'll stick to what the books say and keep using Moly grease.
At least until Colt Canada will let a dirty civilian take their armorers course.
 
dink27 said:
I've always used Moly with good results. But then I've only built or re-barreled a handful of ARs and only fired tens of thousands of rounds. I think I'll stick to what the books say and keep using Moly grease.
At least until Colt Canada will let a dirty civilian take their armorers course.
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maybe when they sell more rifles to the public than the CF. Might take a while...
 
Not to derail this thread but the only thing that will keep copper based anti seize from eating an aluminum receiver is the oil it is suspended in and the coatings on the receiver.
I can think of a single application where copper based anti seize was my first choice and it involved Beryllium copper components and fasteners.
 
I used whatever the grey can of anti-seize was that I scrounged from the mechanic shop work bench.
It was grey and it said "ANTI-SEIZE" on it in blue letters, it was also free SO YOU KNOW IT'S GOOD!

Good enough for this guy anyhow......

I love reading threads about AR's on this site. Guys getting their blood pressure up and splitting hairs over the molecular structure of an aluminum alloy or what brand of generic overpriced CLP will make the gun "run" better than some other over priced generic brand of CLP etc etc

Meanwhile their pristine $4000 safe queen AR's sit in the gun locker barely used lolol
God bless CGN and the internets eh boys!?
 
I never use anything but the oil on my rag that I wipe the rest of the rifle down with. When I have removed any barrels that I have done the threads are never dry and have no problem getting them apart and they look like new still.
I don't see how grease can hurt either though or anti sieze. Whatever works. I do agree though that I wouldn't stop my build and drive across town just to get some grease.
 
I picked up my CC SA20 today. It has grease oozing out of the forward part of the upper receiver where the barrel attaches. It looks to me like Aeroshell 33MS. I am familiar with that grease as we use it at work on, well, aircraft!

So some CC barrels are assembled using the grease? And some not?
 
I actually just replaced the barrel on my spikes AR and I don't recall seeing any grease on the threads or the barrel and it came out just fine, threads still looked brand new.
 
Never used grease or anti-seize on barrel nut, never once had a problem removing, never seen any sign of damage or corrosion. If placing a touch of anti-seize makes you sleep better then have at'er, it isn't going to hurt!
 
Gunnerlove said:
Not to derail this thread but the only thing that will keep copper based anti seize from eating an aluminum receiver is the oil it is suspended in and the coatings on the receiver.
I can think of a single application where copper based anti seize was my first choice and it involved Beryllium copper components and fasteners.
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Have used copper anti seize in some pretty extreme environments on several hi temp applications and have never seen any negative effects. Lots of positive ones though! That would be choice #2 for this application.
 
work on thousands of C8s and C7s and I have seen both lubed and non lubed barrel nuts. I have never had a issue with the non lubed ones and if Colt Canada says its ok then it is OK!
 
Tango4N said:
I picked up my CC SA20 today. It has grease oozing out of the forward part of the upper receiver where the barrel attaches. It looks to me like Aeroshell 33MS. I am familiar with that grease as we use it at work on, well, aircraft!

So some CC barrels are assembled using the grease? And some not?
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Mine was the same.
 
I'm no expert either but when I changed out my front handguard to a Larue 7.0 Tactical handguard, I followed the directions on their site which indicated to use a small amount of Moly Grease on the receiver threads.

htt p://www.laruetactical.com/larue-tactical-70-handguard-lt15-7

I noticed that the AR build thread on the AR15.com site says the same thing.

htt p://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/226782_.html

My take is that the grease doesn't hurt anything and just might make it easier to take apart down the road. Each to his own I guess.
 
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