Grease on the yugo capture K98

Strip down the rifle and bolt and soak them in simple green. Scrape as much as you can off of the wood stock and sweat it out with a hair dryer. That's what I did with mine. Get pipe cleaners and qtips for all the nooks and crannies. Make sure you dissassemble the bolt and clean it too. Mind had a solid cylinder of grease in there.
 
Bit late to the party. Excuse my curiosity please. What was the price on these "in the grease" Yugo capture Mausers? Was it different from the ones listed now at $495? Thanks.
 
I have the same rifle with cosmoslin. Use mineral spirits from ct

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/tools...e&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default

It works great!!!
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Bit late to the party. Excuse my curiosity please. What was the price on these "in the grease" Yugo capture Mausers? Was it different from the ones listed now at $495? Thanks.
I think what they have before are matching numbers 595$ Yugoslavia M98 Mausers, right now is 495$ and they have mismatched number. Just picked up one with metal butt stock, front sight hood and H shape milled barrel band. Very good in condition I would say.
 
Mine came today, spent the morning degreasing the metal with simple green and sweating the grease out by the wood stove. I have seen less grease used in repacking a wheel bearing.





It is pretty much scrubbed, but found a few markings intact.



Wood is pretty good and the metal is excellent. The sight markings are still in the white but only marked on the top.



This is the crack near the stock as described in the ad. (K98-131) It is about 2 inches long. Anthony said wood filler would fix it.



I am very pleased with my purchase. The bolt is slick and the trigger is a little creepy but with a lighter pull than the Mosins.

Have you shot it yet, at 25m I shot 3 inches left and 3 inches down form bulleye. I think my front sight is too tall.
 
Naphtha/white gas/coleman fuel.

Excellent degreaser and it evaporates very quickly and leaves no residual contaminants behind.
 
Markzdb, I hope to test fire it tomorrow. My front sight is way over to the left.

There are utube videos about Mausers shooting high, requiring a taller post. So having a front sight that is too tall, it can still be filed to hit point of aim.

I would try it at 100 meters before filling.
 
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Definitely shoot it at 100m before you do anything to the sight. These are sighted in for the distances on the sight... 100 for 100m, 200 for 200m etc. Shooting it at 25m with a 100m setting then saying the sight is too high is a poor way to determine if it is actually zeroed properly. Making sure your using the proper ammo will also determine if you sight is off as well. The loading that would have been used for these rifles is a 198grn bullet at 2500 ft/sec.
 
Markzdb, I hope to test fire it tomorrow. My front sight is way over to the left.

There are utube videos about Mausers shooting high, requiring a taller post. So having a front sight that is too tall, it can still be filed to hit point of aim.

I would try it at 100 meters before filling.

I was wrong I did not shoot at 25m...I tried both 50m and 100m, at 50m it shoots 3 inches left and 3 inches low,and at 100m it shoots 6 inches left and 6 inches low haha. I would say the groups are very good half inche at 50m, and I was using 198grn ppu fmjbt ammo.
 
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Definitely shoot it at 100m before you do anything to the sight. These are sighted in for the distances on the sight... 100 for 100m, 200 for 200m etc. Shooting it at 25m with a 100m setting then saying the sight is too high is a poor way to determine if it is actually zeroed properly. Making sure your using the proper ammo will also determine if you sight is off as well. The loading that would have been used for these rifles is a 198grn bullet at 2500 ft/sec.

Sorry I was wrong, I tried both 50m and 100m not 25m. It shoots 6 inches low and 6 inches left at 100m. I was using ppu 198grn fmjbt.
 
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For anyone contemplating cleaning their rifle with gasoline, or naphtha, white fuel, what have you, please don't. not only are you damaging the wood by drying it out, one spark and you're off to the hospital with terrible 3rd degree burns if lucky, if unlucky you'll also be explaining to an insurance entity why it is that you're a sh1thead when you get out of the hospital.
 
Wow, they must have used a five pound mallet to strike the numbers on the floor plate!~
Mine came today, spent the morning degreasing the metal with simple green and sweating the grease out by the wood stove. I have seen less grease used in repacking a wheel bearing.



It is pretty much scrubbed, but found a few markings intact.



Wood is pretty good and the metal is excellent. The sight markings are still in the white but only marked on the top.



This is the crack near the stock as described in the ad. (K98-131) It is about 2 inches long. Anthony said wood filler would fix it.



I am very pleased with my purchase. The bolt is slick and the trigger is a little creepy but with a lighter pull than the Mosins.
 
Just back from the farm. All 5 rounds on the 6 inch resetting popper @ 100 yards.

This was just off the hood of the truck so I am calling it good to go out of the box.

Will wait till I can get on the bench and punch some holes in paper to see it it needs fine tuning.
 
I got my K98 yesterday and i am struggling to remove the rings on the front of the rifle. Mine is a 1944 version, were these years braze welded on? Any tricks, cant even depress the spring to allow the front one to slide.
 
Get a small aluminum or brass punch and a small tack hammer. Use a clamp to depress the band spring, then use the punch and tack hammer to tap the front band forward along the rear edge. The soft punch will smear metal onto the band, but it will come right off with fine steel wool.

After you degrease everything it will be easier to remove/install in the future.
 
For anyone contemplating cleaning their rifle with gasoline, or naphtha, white fuel, what have you, please don't. not only are you damaging the wood by drying it out, one spark and you're off to the hospital with terrible 3rd degree burns if lucky, if unlucky you'll also be explaining to an insurance entity why it is that you're a sh1thead when you get out of the hospital.

This is poor, fear mongering advice.

Certainly don't soak the stock in whatever solvent, but if it's all someone has handy a little of your favorite hydrocarbon mix (except possible the gas because the additives might do funny stuff) on a rag will take stubborn deposits straight off with no damage done, and the metal parts you can be generous with. Acetone/MEK is preferred though.
With just the slightest bit of sense it works perfectly.


Even with a token amount of ventilation even an open container is not going to generate anywhere near enough fumes to cause a flash over. Work with as little as possible at a time, do it in open air, and hold off on the ciggy until you've put everything away and cleaned up and the risk is next to none. While it certainly possible to cause a hell of a fire with solvents, somehow millions of people a day use paint-thinners and a like without ending up in the burn ward. And that's all you're doing here, thinning one hydrocarbon mix with a more volatile one for ease of removal.


People these days are conditioned to be scared of their own shadow. :rolleyes:
 
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For anyone contemplating cleaning their rifle with gasoline, or naphtha, white fuel, what have you, please don't. not only are you damaging the wood by drying it out, one spark and you're off to the hospital with terrible 3rd degree burns if lucky, if unlucky you'll also be explaining to an insurance entity why it is that you're a sh1thead when you get out of the hospital.

You speaking from personal experience?
 
Cleaned mine tonight and Its going to look AWESOME!

Stock took the most work, currently having it hanging in front of the industrial fan after the first coat of true oil

use for metal parts
-mineral spirits
-crud cutter aerosol spray
(barrel) used metal bore cleaner and crud cutter and after a wash in mineral spirits was pristine
washed it all off with the hose then compressed air and spray of oil then wipe.

Wood
- wipe with mineral spirits
- alternate with
Tilex (non bleach) and degreaser then hosed it off with water and repeated until it rinsed essentially clear.

looking forward to seeing the final product when i get it back together

the foregrip ring was a real chore to get off, I made a protector of cardboard and cloth then used a vice grip to contact the spring and tapped it off from the bottom with a screwdriver and handle of another driver. presprayed crud cutter all over the ring too in hopes it would loosen things up and it worked.
 
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