Greasing loaders

japlume

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So I just set up my press that has been in my dad's house for three years. It needs a clean up and feel a bit of grease would do it good. What do you guys use for that? I also have a fine layer of surface rust that I want to tend to. I'll be youriding how to get rid of that. It's just on the handle and any textured righting nuts, not a huge issue just looks a bit bad.
 
Slop lotsa KROIL on all the metal - let it soak in then - dampen really fine steel wool with KROIL and burnish the metal. If no KROIL is available spray everything with WD-40 and burnish with fine steel wool. A stainless brush works well on any well soaked Kroil or WD40 "textured" metal parts. DON'T leave any surface rust "unattended to". Unlike whiskey, rusted parts do not improve with age ...
 
japlume

I bought my Rockchucker press in 1973 and my reloading bench is in the basement. I don't know how many times I have dissembled the press to clean the "brown patina" off the press. But as long as the ram is oiled and rust free you are good to go, I'm 65 and have age spots and lots of wrinkles that come from age, and I still have plenty of life left in me.

The Kroil and steel wool comment above is very good advice, the Kroil will dissolve a good bit of the rust and the steel wool get the rest.
 
I tried grease on the ram of one press and went back to oil. The nature of the press ram being so exposed means that it is GOING to pick up crud and leave it sitting around the joint with the frame. Oiled crud is FAR easier to clean away than greased crud.

I've since compromised and use the same thick chainsaw bar oil I use for a way oil on my machines for the ram of the press as well as the pivots in the handle linkage. It's thick enough to do a nice job and stay in place but wipes away relatively easily.
 
I use zoom spout oil, its a food grade oil used for mixers and processors. It gets in everywhere and if it gets on clothing it washes out easily. I do not support the use of WD-40 since it is a Water Dispersment agent, it tends to "dry" metal out and lets the surface be more subsceptible to oxidization. Hell I have even used lanolin from my case lube kit and that works like a charm also.
 
I used up the last of my Frog Lube grease on my ram and pivots, and then switched over to Kroil. As mentioned above the grease really collected and stuck all debris in place. The Kroil has been working much better and cleans away very well.
 
I use grade 46 hydraulic oil on my presses and lathe and milling machine and my industrial sewing machine.
I keep all this equipment in a garage that is only heated when I am out there. No rust or wear on anything.

Terry
 
Wow, lots of complicated opinions here. I just use 3 in 1 oil on all my presses. Clean and oil as required.


Yep, nothing wrong with 3 in 1 oil.
Those meat hunting days I often talk of, where the hunters rifles were out in every type of weather, in every month of the year, the most common oil used was 3in1 oil.
After all, the title 3 in 1, means cleaning, lubricating and rust preventative ingredients in one oil.
 
0000 Steel Wool and some Hoppe's No. 9 works for me for surface rust.

On the ram of the RCBS Rockchucker and the main rams of the P/W it's their product, a synthetic grease they call STOS ...(slipperier than owl s**t )
Most other friction points, Beretta Gun Oil, cause that's what I have on hand.
 
Zoom spout would work fine. Any weight oil will work.

Zoom spout oil is definitely NOT food grade


Ok so would I drink zoom spout, probably not, have I ingested it probably use since it's what we use to maintain and lubricate out mix masters and other food processors.. Any oil will work and the old 3 in 1, is a fail safe. It can be used on everything from tools to sewing machines. As long as it provides a slippery surface, I use zoom spout since I have lots on hand and it is meant for bushing/bearings where there are minimalis tolerances for parts to move in. On a personal note if you have any corroded parts that are seizing use a drop of brake fluid to break down the corrosion and then clean and relube. A lil known fact is that ATF transmission fluid is an awesome weapons/parts cleaner. It is slightly acidic and breaks down carbon in an excellent fashion. It does not affect blueing and penetrates quite well.

Just my 2 cents
 
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