Gun stock finish
- Thread starter tmntdude84
- Start date
jmichelin84
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Big Land, nL
For my rifles I just get a can of minwax whatever one I like and use some rustoleum 2x cover semi-gloss, but others will say boiled linseed oil or Tung oil
You're absolutely right! I'd say Linseed Oil or Tung Oil. I've had good success with these two and gives a nice matte finish. Better yet, it's pretty simple to do.
You'd be surprised sometimes just how nice the wood is once you strip the factory junk off and throw the first coat of oil on it. Really makes the grain pop usually.
To help seal the wood better, I also use Renaissance Wax on top of the oil. There's some good videos out there showing how effective the combination is for sealing moisture out of the wood.
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This is a great product.
Tad slower awn curing time, but wonderful results.
Now this Rustohlee-yum has garstzs me thinking...…..?
Never heard of this been yews'd.
I use Kiwi shoe polish.
Warm up the wood and shoe polish until it's almost liquid before applying the polish. Rub it in, with a soft cloth and let it dry. If you want a shiny finish, buff it.
This isn't a finish that will last for years, if you're using the rifle. However, it will last for a season and is very easy to keep up. Just a quick wipe down and apply another coat before putting into the safe.
I've been using it for years on wooden stocks that get a lot of use.
Warm up the wood and shoe polish until it's almost liquid before applying the polish. Rub it in, with a soft cloth and let it dry. If you want a shiny finish, buff it.
This isn't a finish that will last for years, if you're using the rifle. However, it will last for a season and is very easy to keep up. Just a quick wipe down and apply another coat before putting into the safe.
I've been using it for years on wooden stocks that get a lot of use.
I'll second the question of "what's the wood?".
Then ask what your idea of a 'right' finish is.
Because the answer could be something simple and cheap, like Boiled Linseed Oil, which takes a lot of time, is sometimes prone to a sticky feeling after a weather change, and is a bit soft, or it could be a coat of Urethane clearcoat over stains of your style and choice.
Or even simpler and cheaper, a rattle can full of fake Granite spray paint off the rack in the paint aisle.
With LOTS of choices between the ends of the scale!
On the plus side for most fellas, the Danish oil and boiled linseed are usually available at about every hardware store that sells paint for house work.
Lee Valley was listing Tru Oil, on their site, if you are near one.
jmichelin84
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Big Land, nL
It's a spray can and you can order we just thin coats leave it let it dry some 0000 steel wool then do another coat I do three and it turns out beautiful, I got my SKS stock back from the friend who ruined it it's a hard one to last stock that he put black polyshades on it lol
OneBarfly
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I'm using the Watco Teak Oil lately. Finish can get shinny with too many coats, so be forewarned. Also, take care of the used rags to prevent combustion with all drying oils.
I’ve been reading, and watching videos on timberluxe finish and it will be the next one I try. It looks very forgiving to use, easy to repair and gives very nice results. I first heard about it from the recommendation of custom gun maker Bailey Bradshaw. Pjs projects in Ontario is the Canadian distributor. Look it up, and watch their videos.
