gun stock refinishing advise

[1963beretta]

I have refinished many stocks over the last few years. i only use stain if the wood really calls for it. But I believe walnut looks best in its natural skin. When the wood is ready to be finished, what I do is first is throw down a couple light coats of boiled linseed oil and let it sit for a couple days. The BLO really brings out the natural colour of the wood. Then I lay down two or three coats of Tru-oil with a wet sanding with a scotchbrite pad. After that, I'll use the armour all/tru-oil combo in many very light coats. The tru-oil does dry quickly. I'll always to a quick wet sanding with a scotchbrite pad in between coats. once all the coats have been laid down, a final wet sanding will bring down the gloss for an oil rubbed look. If you prefer the gloss look, polish it with wax and the gun will sparkle like a new car. Here is a recent stock that I refinished. Its a Cooey 64 that had an exception quality walnut stock. I decided on a deep gloss lustre finish on this one and was pleased with the result

 

[VictoryXC]

Nice job 1963 Beretta!! That looks really nice.

 

[1963beretta]

Nice job 1963 Beretta!! That looks really nice.

Thanks! I was very pleased when I got my hands on that gun and saw the quality of the walnut hiding under the crap Cooey used to finish their stocks.

 

[1963beretta]

Just completed another stock using the tru-oil/armour all method. The first two coats I laid down was just tru-oil. All subsequent coats were done using the armour all method. A light sanding with either steel wool or a scotchbrite pad in between coats. Once I was happy with the finish, I gave the stocks a good wet sanding with a scotchbrite pad to knock off the ultra high gloss finish, and that gave it a nice uniform satin look. To achieve the correct gloss look I was after, I polished the stocks with wax and gave it a quick buffing with some Pledge.

 

[BCRider]

I love how you can achieve a nice gloss without making it look like it was hermetically dipped in plastic. VERY nice.....

 

[1963beretta]

I love how you can achieve a nice gloss without making it look like it was hermetically dipped in plastic. VERY nice.....

Thanks. I get the gloss finish from hand polishing with maguires car wax. I find that it gives me just the right amount gloss without going overboard. I onced tried a buffing wheel and it became like glass...too glossy for my liking. Since then, I stick to hand polishing

 

[BigUglyMan]

Another option that I have uses a couple of times is the "Lemon Meringue Stock" finish from Gun Digest many moons ago. I've got a copy of the article around somewhere but here are the steps to follow...

Materials: wet or dry papers in 400, 600, 800, 1000; one lemon, one egg, clear surgical rubbing alcohol, a small bottle of artistic grade linseed oil and a large rubber eraser to use as backing.

1. Polish stock with 400 grit
2. After polishing liberally coat with lemon juice
3. After lemon juice is absorbed comes rubbing alcohol, about 5 passes with cotton wool
4. Next need to fill the pores. Rub egg white into stock by hand. Once dry, rub down to bare wood with 400 grit
5. Apply alcohol to stock, let it dry and put on more egg white. Repeat routine until most of the pores are filled in.
6. Start with 400 grit until all traces of egg white are gone. go on to 600 and always use eraser backing. Move onto 800. Move on to 1000. When done take some used 1000 and polish again.
7. Now hand rub thin coats of linseed oil. If any oil is on the surface wipe off with a clean cotton rag. Average density walnut stock will take about six coats.
8. Time for automotive rubbing compound. Finest grit body and paint shops use to finish cars. Make sure compound is not combined with wax. Apply it thinly over stock and let dry. polish gently with a leather chamois.
9. Next comes beeswax polish. if you can't find it, you can make it. Need 1 block of real beeswax, about the size of a shotgun shell. Shred it on a cheese grater and drop it into a
jar with four about tablespoons of real turpentine (the stuff the comes from pine resin, not synthetic). The was will melt in the turpentine
10. Spread a little paste on stock with a clean cloth and leave to dry for hour or so. Once dry rub well with a leather chamois.

The finish will end up as a matte finish with a fairly warm lustre. Not shiny though you could probably buff the beeswax finish to a higher shine.

 

[bobbynewmark]

I find spar varnish works for my non-collectible guns ( I use Tung Oil on the Enfield and other such classics ).

I thin the first coat with the appropriate thinner, so it will soak into all the little cracks and voids. After the second coat I wet sand in between coats with 400 wet just to knock down any runs, then re-coat once a day till I have about 5-6 coats. I use a foam brush and it works well for me for these purposes.. I tried a good brush, but found there were too many runs...

You can use the gloss or matte.. You can make the gloss type matte by rubbing the finished product down with 0000 steel wool and paste wax ( I use floor wax ). IMHO it comes out looking very much like a factory finish if executed well

Most people do not want a super shiny finish on a gun, but if you do.. I can't think of a faster, easier way than varnish. And the marine spar varnish is very durable and resistant to solvents (somewhat) and UV rays....