GUNKOTE-Where to buy???

Thx. for the reply Canuckle, I was going to ask you in muzzle-brake thread :p .
Do I need a special spray-gun to apply this stuff, what about a primer??
finicky to apply???. Bear in mind I have minimal skills painting with a spray-gun. :redface:
 
I know a while back small arms review had a write up on how to camo a rifle,
it was a funky urban digital paint job. They went through the masking and painting.....if you could get a hold of that issue it may help.
 
If you're just talking the liquid, it's pretty easy to use. I've refinished three guns with it, with very good results. I use an air-brush to apply.

The biggest thing is the prep work. Can go right over a parked finish, but a blued gun needs to be sand/bead blasted. Degreased and spotless before spraying it.

You essentially pre-heat the parts in an oven before spraying (essentially allows the acetone/solvent in the paint evaporate on contact, so it's 'dry' almost instantly), and then bake them in an oven after for about an hour.

It's best to apply in light coats. The metal cools down pretty quick after pre-heating due to the evaporation of the solvent. I usually need to re-heat the part twice during the coating process.

Before GunKoting, I had ZERO experience with an airbrush. Take your time, and make sure the prep work is done properly, and it will turn out fine.

DuraCoat (sold by a member on this board... Murdoc I believe?) is also a good product that does not need baking.
 
Arma-Coat from Barret arms out of Edmonton is also top notch stuff.
I've used it exclusivly on 7 or 8 firearms so far, great results.
No baking required.
If you're interested.
my 2 cents

...WW
 
GunKote is great stuff, So far I've only used it on bike motors, and it really is amazing on aluminum and magnesium if you do good prep work, like Canucklehead detained.
Except for one small point. I found blasting with an abrasive (like aluminum oxide) gave noticably better adhesion than blasting with glass beads.
Because of the fairly high temperature you have to bake the GunKote at (300F or 350F IIRC), pretty much means you are limited to using it on regular metals. For plastics, wood and scopes you'll have to use something like ArmaCoat

I'd be really interested to see a head-to-head comparison of the GunKote to ArmaCoat.
 
Dave does ARMA-coat come in aerosol or did you apply by airbrush or gun???.
BCsteve getting the firearm done by bits and pieces sounds appealing, if I may ask what did it cost you approx.??? I am here in the lower mainland so that sounds like a good option. The firearm to be painted is a rem. 870. express.
I do have friends with equipment to spray a product for me but we all know the hassles of taking a firearm [yes even pieces] to the local businesses of god-fearing sheeple ;) . I am also not able to afford to gear-up with a compressor and spray applicators, airbrush or otherwise at present time.
My main concern is to make this shotgun better in the field, as it seem to literally draw moisture to itself and rust before my eyes. :eek: If anyone else knows of a method of rustproofing other than ones already stated in this thread plz. let me know.
Thxs. again,
Mad Mikey. :)
 
If you're on a budget, and the shotgun is a shooter, not a safe queen.... Krylon spray paint. Comes in all kinds of colors.

It won't be the most durable finish, but it's easy to touch up or strip off.
 
Sun and Steel 77, Arma-Coat comes in kits with aerosol Pre-Val sprayers, so you mix components together and place them in the bottle provided and spray like a regular paint can.
 
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Go to armacoat.net All the info is there. I just gave them a call when I figured out what colour and size gave them the credit card and boom it was at my door in no time.
Good luck
Dave
 
Splatter said:
I found blasting with an abrasive (like aluminum oxide) gave noticably better adhesion than blasting with glass beads.
Click to expand...

KG Industries recomends using Aluminum Oxide for blasting and NOT to use glass beads.

From the KG Website:

gunkoteapplication.jpg
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APPLICATION: Pretreatment:
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Alloy Steel: Stainless Steel: Sandblast (all sandblasting should be done using aluminum oxide 120 mesh at 50 to 70 pounds of pressure.) Sandblast and phosphate or sandblast only. Aluminum: Alodine or anodize if possible, if not possible use lighter pressure sandblast. Nickel Or Chrome Plating: Sandblast (If plating peels it is bad plating.) Parts are first stripped and cleaned of any oil or grease (use KG-3 Solvent Degreaser). After grit blasting repeat cleaning to remove all blasting residue that may have been trapped. Next apply K-Phos pretreatment following instructions on the product.
Note: Never use glass bead for blasting.
Click to expand...

SKBY.
 
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